**** "DO'S & DO NOTS" for NEW SPYDER OWNERS... ****

[pslawing]

This. The Nanny blips the throttle for you while shifting, you don't have to do it yourself. Just roll on/roll off the throttle and shift away when at the appropriate RPM (you'll learn the best shifting points for your bike with practice... when you shift at a bad spot, you'll feel it! pps

What "the Nanny" loving this tread learning a great deal. Going in for my 600 mile service this week. Have a list of questions for the service guy.

 

[NoJive]

I just ordered the belt guard myself. I live on about a 1/2 mile of gravel/dirt road, and I guess I have been lucky and had no issues in the couple weeks I have owned my :spyder2:. I'm hoping the belt guard works well, as I don't know anything else to do besides slow down.

BTW, this is an awesome thread.

Jive

Here's one that I didn't know as I had never been around motorcycles or spyders:

DO NOT RIDE IT DOWN GRAVEL ROADS

I took it to the gravel road 1st day I owned it. Thought it'd be a good place to ride it and get used to the handling without traffic. 3 wheels on the ground would make you think it's perfect for gravel cruising. I pushed a rock into my belt. Since then, I've added the spyderpops guard

 

[chris56]

42.000 kms in the alps - no problems
I never checked my oil or my batterie or my fuses .. ( 2 times in the year it goes for service..)
only one limb mode made by a friend (rode the brakes) - never seen one by myselve
if I have to follow my friends (most of BMWs) I have no time think about my gearbox -
(they hate if they have to wait for someone in their no HD-riders "group" ..
here you see a "normal" RT - ryde
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/media.php?do=details&mid=276

 

[Tigger]

Nice value added post. Glad to find it.

 

[pslawing]

What's the Nanny?

 

[quickster47]

What's the Nanny?

ECU = Engine Control Unit
ECM = Engine Control Manager

The electronic brain that controls the Spyder.

Carl

 

[Grandpa Spyder]

What's the Nanny?

Nanny is what kicks in when you go around a curve or corner to fast and the wheel starts to come up. Then Nanny kicks in and slows you down to bring that wheel back down. I have had it happen to me a couple of times. It will throw you a little forward if you are not expecting it.

 

[napper39]

i just checked the new posts and there are moore new riders that need to read this so bump take it to the top.:yikes: ride like the wind:chat:

 

[MRH]

Regarding the battery cable locations... READ RULE #1 which asks that you read the manual from cover to cover. You'll see answers to more than you realize you didn't know.

Second, stop the habit of even touching the brake. Just simply quit doing it...

Thirdly; shifting too early is causing you to not get the most of your machine -- and as mentioned, potential trouble down the road later when a few things start to wear out from the added stress you are causing from loading the engine too much. Spyders thrive at higher RPM's, and their power-curve is at the high-end of the RPM spectrum. Running one at low RPM's results in the lack of horsepower/torque; a rough running motor, and rougher shifting. Again... try using the "trailer-mode"... it will not let you shift out of first-gear until you are at about 28 MPH. That will show you how high the engineers designed the RPM's to go. Something to think about.

Overall.. it appears there are several problems that are caused by the riders rather than the machine. Learn to follow the suggestions and you'll soon be enjoying your Spyder a whole lot more. And remember the rule to "Have Fun!" :thumbup:

It's taken me a few days to respond to this - my wife and I took the Spyder up to Big Sur for a couple of days (leaving from Santa Ynez, 170 very picturesque miles each way). Very, very fun.

I learned to stay far from the brake very early on, but the high RPMs are new for me. On this trip, I took a completely different approach and ran the bike between about 5000 and 7000 RPM most of the time, often only going from third to fourth when I hit 60-65mph (I don't think I touched fifth gear once). It does fool you in the 4000's and makes you feel as though you are pushing it, but once you pass the low 5000's it really smooths out and rides better than it ever has for me in the past - it's like getting a free upgrade!

Ironically, I recall asking my dealer when to shift before my test ride, and the questions wasn't treated with a whole lot of respect, so I shifted when it felt right (pretty much what they said, I think), which would have been in high 3000's or the 4000's. Now, I'm trying not to shift under 5000, and prefer hitting at least 6000 first. I wish somebody has told me that from day one - but I'll settle for learning it now. Hopefully others will benefit from this thread.

Thanks again.

 

[ocfire82]

The dealership where I made my purchase strongly emphasized--DO NOT RIDE ON GRAVEL OR DIRT ROADS. BIKE IS 'NOT" MADE FOR THIS. This is one of the few things they did tell me:banghead::banghead:

I have 19000 miles on my 08 and ride about 5 miles of gravel every time I go for a ride.:dontknow:

 

[Illinois Boy]

I updated a few more suggestions to this basic "beginner's list" of Do's and Dont's that hopefully will save some people unnecessary grief, and possibly further their enjoyment of their Spyder...:thumbup:

 

[Robertsepolen]

Thanks for the advice! Especially the shift points!

 

[leenanj]

Well I put my RT in trailer mode and was surprised on how high the RPM was
before it allowed me to shift and also it downshifted much sooner.

I know I was guilty of keeping the rpm to low just for a quieter ride.

I'm thinking maybe I should leave it in trailer mode all the time with or without trailer.

What other things other than rpm does trailer mode tell nanny to do to the Spyder?

 

[Illinois Boy]

Unofficially from what I understand and have read (because I did read the manual from cover to cover as in Rule #1); is that the "trailer-mode" basically lets your RTS-SE5 know you are pulling a trailer; thus many factors come into play with the handling and power of the Spyder.

Beside changing the shifting points (to higher RPM points to save the drivetrain from undue stresses), it also affects your braking, stability and traction control systems as well. Overall then the nanny system could kick-in quicker when it detects something exceeding the Spyder's ability to remain within specific ranges of operation and safety.

Thus, I don't know that you want to always run in the trailer-mode. It simply was a suggestion to help understand how high the RPM's can go by design without causing problems.

 

[napper39]

too many new riders that has not read this grate thred so bump to the top lits help out some moore new riders.:thumbup::chat:

 

[viperryder]

Do's & Dont's for New Spyder Owners: Updated July 7th, 2012
There are several "things" a Spyder owner needs to know when buying and operating their Spyder to help them have a better experience, and to avoid causing complications later.

1. READ THE MANUAL FRONT COVER TO THE BACK!!! The Spyder is fun and you are anxious to ride it; but do yourself a HUGE favor and read the manual entirely before doing so. You may be surprised at what you don't know.
2. Buy only from a dealer that has a good reputation. Setting-up a new Spyder seems to be a huge problem if not done correctly. Your odds of having a miserable experience increases if you don't.
3. Learn as much as possible about your Spyder. You do not have to become a mechanic, but having knowledge will help you out in more ways than can be mentioned.
4. Do not "ride the brake", or even touch the brake when riding. Too many people seem to have this bad-habit, and the Spyder doesn't like it. The "system" will begin to give you trouble. So blame yourself if you ride your brake -- period. It will cause you problems.
5. Learn to shift and cruise at higher RPM's. Get over your fear of running the Spyder's Rotax engine at high RPM's. The higher ranges of 4,500 -- 6,000 are where you want to shift and cruise at -- period. Problems are likely to arise later if you do not. For proof; the RTS SE5's "Trailer Mode" won't let you shift out of 1st gear until you hit 28 MPH! (The manual for the RTS-SE5 on pages 71 and 76 mention 3,000 RPM's as the "magic-number" to shift; and not to exceed 4,000 RPM's; which may confuse some. The fact is if you shift at that low of RPM you will be bogging-down your engine and drivetrain.) The engine will not run as smooth or have as much torque (power) when shifting or cruising at low RPM's, and can cause other problems later on. Instead, wait to shift until the RPM's hit the high 4,000's (I shift at 5,100 RPM's for all gear changes. It shifts as smooth as silk.). Fourth-gear can, and should be used up to 63 -- 65 MPH and can be held there all day if that is your cruising-speed. Shifting to 5th gear should be only when you are above this speed; and only if you are on level ground and will remain constant above 65. Downshift when on inclines... up or down when in 5th gear. Do not let your Spyder "lug" its way through uphill climbs. Following this advice your Spyder will run smoother, quieter, and still have power at your disposal. (Those who have ridden V-Twins motorcycles -- you guys are too used to your engine lugging along at 2,100 to 3,500 RPM's. That is a killer for the Spyder. The Rotax engine is NOT your old V-Twin. It works best at or above 5,000 RPM's; so get used to it, or pay the price later.)
6. Remove the key from the ignition (and the spare from the trunk) and walk away at least 15 feet for several minutes to allow the computer to reset itself if you have minor "booting" problems when starting.
7. For those with the SE5; be sure to downshift when stopping -- especially fast stops, as the transmission may not downshift to 1st gear. You might then experience the dreaded "can't get it into first-gear syndrome".
8. Tire pressure makes a big difference in how the Spyder handles. Tire pressure depends on your load-weight, and type of riding, but there will be an optimal pressure. Check it often.
9. Check your battery cables, fuses, and such often. Anytime these get loose from vibration... the Spyder acts badly.
10. Pay attention to how your Spyder is running. If your Spyder is showing even the slightest sign of not running or operating right... check to be sure you are not guilty of doing, or not doing any of the above. If not, then get it checked-out as soon as possible or risk having problems later -- possibly while on a trip.
11. Get a battery tender and hook it up to your battery in between riding it. "Tenders" condition the battery which helps make a battery last longer and remain charged. (Short-rides do not always sufficiently charge your battery.)
12. Do not ride on gravel roads. Despite the fact you are on three-wheels... you are also "belt-driven". Rocks and belts don't mix. Just simply avoid doing it whenever possible, and then check your belt right after doing so if you have to.
13. Fluid levels (i.e., brake, oil, coolant) have to be correct. Check them often as your Spyder will not run right if they are not. (Brake fluid level will go lower as the brake-pads begins to wear. While your brake-pads may still look good, your brake-fluid is now low and the Spyder will throw a code for it... while you scratch your head wondering why. Simply top-off the fluid.)
14. Be sure to relax your grip on the handlebars. People's first propensity is to squeeze the daylights out of the grips. This will make the Spyder skip from side-to-side causing a "jerky-ride" (lateral movement). JUST RELAX your grip, and you'll soon see that the Spyder's ride will have a reduction in its "jerkiness". Relaxing typically comes naturally after riding it for several hundred miles.
15. Be sure to have fun and ride often... probably should be the #1 "MUST DO".

That is a collection of "sage-advice" gathered from various resources to help you enjoy your experience with your Spyder; and to avoid "beginner mistakes" that may cause grief later-on.

If anyone disagrees or can add to the list... please do.:thumbup:

I am new to the Spyder, about a year now. My question is " When just driving around the area for fun, can I leave the Spyder in fourth gear and not shift to fifth?" I have been a Goldwing rider for 13 years and this info is new to me. Please help!!!!!!!

 

[Illinois Boy]

Yes. The only time you'll want to shift to 5th gear is when you are cruising at a constant speed above 65 on level terrain.

Too many people think that since a vehicle has 5-gears that they always need to "get to" the highest gear. That thought process is wrong, and can be at the root of several problems for a vehicle later-on as the added stress to the drivetrain can cause eventual failures.

Re-read the updated version of the list regarding RPM's.

I never shift until I see the 5,100 RPM range. That includes all gears, except maybe first to second, of which I shift in the 22 to 28 MPH range. Otherwise... it is at the 5,100 RPM range.

What you will notice is that your Rotax engine will actually run quieter, smoother, and have more power at your disposal at the throttle.

I have noticed many Spyder owners lugging their engines trying to get to the next gear as soon as possible and then cruising around in 5th gear with the RPM's in the 3,000 range. These people should be treated as poorly as they are treating the engine and drivetrain!

EDIT: Also you may find when operating at higher RPM's is you will not have the belt-vibration problem commonly heard about from Spyder owners. My first thought when reading about belt-vibrations is that these individuals are likely running at too low of RPM's most of the time for the gear they are in. Belt vibrations typically occur in the 5,000 to 5,500 RPM range. At that RPM range, the Spyder should be in 4th gear if you are cruising at that pace. Higher RPM's while in the "right" gear doesn't guarantee no vibrations; but you'll find belt vibrations are very infrequent.

Try this advice for a while and see if your experience with your Spyder doesn't "go-up" a notch or two. I believe it will...

 

[Robertsepolen]

READ THE OWNERS MANUAL!
Wait two days and read it again!
Wait one week and read it AGAIN!

I am finding answers that even the dealer service department cant answer! This stuff is not in their heads.
Read it for youself! You will be glad you did!

I just spent 3 hours waiting for my bike to be fixed when, after reading the manual myself, I discovered it wasnt even broken!

I did read the manual when we got the Spyder but it is unlikely you will memorize it the first time!

READ THE MANUAL!

 

[AnthonyG]

This thread is very useful the new owners to say the least. One of the best threads i have read yet. I picked up my spyder yesterday morning, but before i did i had already read this thread 2 times. Now i find myself back here this morning reading it again just to make sure i soak up all the info. I have also read the owners manual twice and watched the dvd once. You can never have to much info on this machine. and i believe if you read this thread and treat your machine with respect it will last you a long time and save you time in the process.

 

[Illinois Boy]

I've had a few responses to this thread and have added a few new pointers to update the list -- especially shift-point suggestions for the RTS-SE5; as requested. Other Spyder models may have different optimal points.

As a part of due-diligence... this list on the first post is merely suggestions based on various resources. You may find some ideas can be slightly modified for your personal needs.

Remember last rule on the list though... :thumbup: