• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

**** "DO'S & DO NOTS" for NEW SPYDER OWNERS... ****

Here's one that I didn't know as I had never been around motorcycles or spyders:

DO NOT RIDE IT DOWN GRAVEL ROADS

I took it to the gravel road 1st day I owned it. Thought it'd be a good place to ride it and get used to the handling without traffic. 3 wheels on the ground would make you think it's perfect for gravel cruising. I pushed a rock into my belt. Since then, I've added the spyderpops guard
 
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When I purchased mine I generated codes the first day riding the brake (costing my dealer a drive to pick it up and return it, and me the better part of the first week without use of it). I think that I somewhere read that on a 2010 RT the new update that resolves the touching the brake issue doesn't apply - but I may be wrong.

I'd also been shifting pretty much as soon as the Spyder will let me - keeping the RPM's low, and am now working to break that bad habit (nobody told me, until I read it here, but that took a while). 5000? Really? I doubt I've been there much at all. It sounds like I should really only be in first or second in city driving. Nobody tells you this stuff. When I asked my dealer when to shift, they didn't have an answer for me at all. It all feels counter-intuitive.

I'd have loved to have found this list on the site day one - can it be added as a sticky in the general forum?? I think it would head off a lot of issues for new owners, and possibly for some more experienced owners as well.

As to the battery cables, I still haven't figured out where those are, and it took me some time to locate the fuses - it would make sense to have info on both of those in the thread. When you're starting from zero, the list in #9 is hard to do without much more information.

This was a great post, thank you!
 
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You've hit it out of the park with this post. Once you have it complete it does need a special spot here so "NEW OWNERS" don't have to learn so much the hard way. Well done :thumbup:
 
as far as where is the battery are leader has a post and shows you how to get to the battery look under the seat but to get to it you need to remove a pannel.lamont has you coverd.
 
Monitor brake fluid level

If the brake fluid level gets a little low you will get a brake failure notice scrolling on the screen. Check the fluid level before you panic. Add fluid to almost overflowing and the brake failure notice should disappear when you restart. If this does not correct the problem then see your dealer.
 
Buttsy said:
I think one of the real "keys" to Spyder ownership is to ensure you learn as much about the Spyder as possible on your own. Buying a Spyder and assuming your dealer will look after everything for you seems reasonable because of the dollars we are spending but...........you need to be informed. This forum along with all its great knowledge does more for "customer care" than anything a dealer or BRP can do for you.

You don't need to be a master mechanic as people like Lamont and Scotty offer great details in for the most "laymen" terms. Then when you go to the dealer you can ask intelligent fact based questions just to make sure everything is going as planned. I really do think the a little bit of knowledege when it comes to these machines is invaluable.

Read, Ask, Listen and get informed first.;)
Click to expand...

Well said:bowdown::bowdown: When you're spending this kind of money on something you should be as knowledgeable as possible PRIOR to you purchase; then you don't have as , many questions or regrets or if onlys after the sale:yes::lecturef_smilie:
 
#2 just an FYI Setup is NOT done by the wrench. It is done by the assembly guys. These are the lowest paid workers in the shop. They simply go by a sheet of the steps needed to uncrate the bike and set it up.
The man with the wench may make sure all the updates are done and just check it out right before delivery but that's it. The shop will not pay the lead guy to set up the unit it would be foolish and if so none of us would get our bikes fixed when they mess up. Whyis this because the shop needs to make the sale and get the unit to you, and we all want our oil change done yesterday .

It is the same with cars a get ready person will set the car up and get it out to the buyer not the mechanic

I had a bike delivered with the front wheel on backwards before

I do agree you need to pick a shop that has a good rep for repairs made Sometimes that means you buy from one dealer for the sales amount and use another for the repair

but your info is great otherwise
 
2manycars said:
I started shifting at a higher RPM and found it shifted much smoother. I guess for me somewhere around 3500-4000 works well. I used to try to keep the RPMS as low as I could to "help my gas mileage," but discovered I seem to do better at higher RPMs.

It is difficult to get used to the engine revving as high as it does at highway speeds, but as you and many others have said, the engine does seem to like it there.

I know 9000 is the red line, but realistically how high should the engine go for maximum efficiency in each gear? Should I back off of the throttle at all when I shift , or always keep it steady?

Riding the brake was an issue for me, and now my wife initially, but I installed a set of Seal floorboards and it makes it much easier to stay off of the brake.

I had an RT a bit ago and sold it, and with my new one I am trying to get the most out of it that I can.

Thanks
Click to expand...

I would suggest you shift just like on any other bike IE close the throttle and shift up as for the RPM when shifting ? these bikes start the power band near 5000rpm so I shift after or near 45 to 5 the unit runs near 70 near 5 but will run up to the set red line and then the rpm limiter will kick in
Main thing is DON'T LUG the motor let it run the higher the rpm the smoother mine is lunging can place unneeded stress on things best advice "ride it like you stole it"
 
MRH said:
When I purchased mine I generated codes the first day riding the brake (costing my dealer a drive to pick it up and return it, and me the better part of the first week without use of it). I think that I somewhere read that on a 2010 RT the new update that resolves the touching the brake issue doesn't apply - but I may be wrong.

I'd also been shifting pretty much as soon as the Spyder will let me - keeping the RPM's low, and am now working to break that bad habit (nobody told me, until I read it here, but that took a while). 5000? Really? I doubt I've been there much at all. It sounds like I should really only be in first or second in city driving. Nobody tells you this stuff. When I asked my dealer when to shift, they didn't have an answer for me at all. It all feels counter-intuitive.

I'd have loved to have found this list on the site day one - can it be added as a sticky in the general forum?? I think it would head off a lot of issues for new owners, and possibly for some more experienced owners as well.

As to the battery cables, I still haven't figured out where those are, and it took me some time to locate the fuses - it would make sense to have info on both of those in the thread. When you're starting from zero, the list in #9 is hard to do without much more information.

This was a great post, thank you!
Click to expand...

Regarding the battery cable locations... READ RULE #1 which asks that you read the manual from cover to cover. You'll see answers to more than you realize you didn't know.

Second, stop the habit of even touching the brake. Just simply quit doing it...

Thirdly; shifting too early is causing you to not get the most of your machine -- and as mentioned, potential trouble down the road later when a few things start to wear out from the added stress you are causing from loading the engine too much. Spyders thrive at higher RPM's, and their power-curve is at the high-end of the RPM spectrum. Running one at low RPM's results in the lack of horsepower/torque; a rough running motor, and rougher shifting. Again... try using the "trailer-mode"... it will not let you shift out of first-gear until you are at about 28 MPH. That will show you how high the engineers designed the RPM's to go. Something to think about.

Overall.. it appears there are several problems that are caused by the riders rather than the machine. Learn to follow the suggestions and you'll soon be enjoying your Spyder a whole lot more. And remember the rule to "Have Fun!" :thumbup:
 
Okay... I keep adding suggestions. Thanks guys.:thumbup:

Please keep in mind we are only talking about "stock" Spyders and only basic ideas that are on a "must do or don't do" basis for new ryders. Customization and other performance ideas would not be what we are looking for... since they are endless and personal; and are constantly changing.
 
Fantastic Post

You guys are great, being a newbe, I have learned alot on the do's and don'ts on Spyder riding. BRP built great machines, as far I am concern. I take extra care of Spyder, I clean it after every ride with a spray detailer and put a cover on it.
:thumbup:SPYDERLOVERS.COM IS A GREAT WEBSITE.:bowdown:
 
Thanks for this great info!

Waiting to pick up my first Spyder any day now. Can't wait to hit the road a little and start getting used to it. This forum and posts like these are just awesome for newbies like me!
Thank you!
 
ARCTIC said:
Here's one that I didn't know as I had never been around motorcycles or spyders:

DO NOT RIDE IT DOWN GRAVEL ROADS

I took it to the gravel road 1st day I owned it. Thought it'd be a good place to ride it and get used to the handling without traffic. 3 wheels on the ground would make you think it's perfect for gravel cruising. I pushed a rock into my belt. Since then, I've added the spyderpops guard
Click to expand...


The dealership where I made my purchase strongly emphasized--DO NOT RIDE ON GRAVEL OR DIRT ROADS. BIKE IS 'NOT" MADE FOR THIS. This is one of the few things they did tell me:banghead::banghead:
 
Dudley said:
Never roll back on the throttle when shifting an SE5.
Click to expand...

This. The Nanny blips the throttle for you while shifting, you don't have to do it yourself. Just roll on/roll off the throttle and shift away when at the appropriate RPM (you'll learn the best shifting points for your bike with practice... when you shift at a bad spot, you'll feel it! :opps:)
 
"Do's and Do Nots"

Great thread. Many of US assume alot of things but having that check list in front of us sure helps.:clap:
 
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