Phil's Mods

[Phil]

Here's the RT622 work so far. More pics to follow.
MODS
1. Interior light halo ring.
2. Purple side fire LED external rings on front and back lid.
3. Backup lights- LED

COMING
1. GloRyders on wheels.
2. Maybe a little more

I'll also post, later, a how to.


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[SteveMac]

Nice. No fumbling around in the dark there!

 

[Phil]

No dark left in which to fumble my friend


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[Phil]

GloRyders on the TR622 Trailer

I can't say enough how much I like working with Kurt at GloRyders. AND... I need to say that this mod is NOT a GloRyder sanctioned mod. It is 100% DIY. WARNING- if you do this mod, there is the chance that the light can spontaniously fly off! But read on....

No standard GloRyder lock piece will work on the 622 trailer. The distance from the wheel to the dust cap is very shallow. About .144". Kurt and I had several email exchanges and the bottom line is that it doesn't look like a piece can be made to act as a lock for the main, chrome, GloRyder body.

It SO HAPPENS that the 'Y' plastic cap is within .1" of being the same size as the GloRyder body. So.... here we go....

1. Remove the plastic cap. It takes a a bit of work because it is snug.
2. Center the GloRyder body on the cap.
3. Drill 2 holes the same size at the holes in the GloRyder body.
4. insert 2 screws
5. 
6. Put a little LocTite on the threads, lock washers, and nuts
7. 
8. Insert all of the light guts and the cap and test.
9. 
10. Here you can see just how shallow the space is from the wheel to the dust cap. But the screws, being at the sides, clear just fine.
11. 
12. Here's what it looks like after it is press fit back in place.
13. 
14. Start to finish was about 10 minutes per wheel. I got it up to 70 on a road near the house and then pulled into a parkinglot. 100% all fine! I then did 20 miles and there was no change and it was fine. I went to Sams, shopped, hit rough spots, trying to shake it around, and it never moved. NOT to say that it will never move
15. I AM going to make ONE addition to this. I'm going to add a large strip of industrial Velcro between the plastic cap and the dust cup. It will add another level of confidence.

Again- this is not rock solid so if you want to do it.... well you get the idea. But it really does look cool with the GloRyders with my custom cut dove logo on both the bike and the trailer!!

 

[Lamonster]

Great mods Bro. :bowdown:

I'm thinking a rare earth magnet, epoxy it to the inside of the cap. The trick would be getting the right thickness. Or you could pull the axle cap and drill a hole dead center and run the bolt through the cap with a nut and have it just long enough to go through the Glowryder and bolt up. opcorn:

 

[Phil]

Lights for the RT622 Trailer

I really need counseling I guess:shocked:. I had so much fun adding loads of lights to the Spyder, that I HAD to do something to the trailer. This is the 2011 trailer which uses only 4 wires:

A= Ground
B= Tail Lights (both)
H= RH Brake & Turn
J= LH Brake & Turn​

Pretty simple actually. I tapped the Ground and Tail Light lines inside the back of the trailer as a source of +12vdc and -12vdc. I got a 4 zone remote light module and mounted it in a vacant spot in the back of the trailer.

A little velcro holds it nicely. As you can see, it's super simple to wire up. Here's how I wired it

ZONE1= Interior halo of super bright white LEDs
ZONE3= LED Backup Lights
ZONE4= Purple LED side throw and general PURPLE accent lights​

This remote has the multiple dimmer/flasher/breathe modes. There WILL come a day when I'll swap it for the new Black Magic remote.
Installing the LED strips is really straight forward. Getting all of the wires back to a 'central' place is a bit of the head scratcher, but I got it. For the front hatch, there was this solution...

Black clothgaffer tape works VERY well. I may end up getting some extra wide black plastic '33' tape to replace the gaffer tape. The black wire that is tiewrapped to the hinges is called Rotor Wire. It is #22 3 conductor that is very flexible and the coating does a good protection job.

Here's what the rat's nest looked like before I cleaned it up and put the plastic shroud back in place.

The blue shroud is for the new backup lights I added. Funny thing... BRP uses the same housing as they do on the bike. They and all the parts are made in Italy by CEV. On the bike, the backup light holders actually hold a light. On the trailer, the same holder is filled with some black stuff, capped with a silver reflecter, wires cut off and duh. They plug a hole. I TRIED getting the lamp holders from CEV, but no luck. Thanks to a brainstormng session with Len @ Cowtown, I got GM lamp sockets, cut off the 'ears', wired them, and used silicon seal to hold them snug in the holes! Thanks Len! Here's the results....

For now, when I backup at night, I'll use the remote to power up the #3 Zone and whaaaaa la.

One task was rather tedious. The side throw LEDs only came in 18" lengths. The longest I needed, to do a ring around the hatch, was 96". Break out the soldering iron and very short wire, heat shrink, torch and the magnifying glass. Not sure how, but all of the work to extend the light sets worked!

All in all, a fun mod. The total current draw of all LEDs lit is less than 2 amps! Basically no drain on the circuit. I'll have a few 'portrate shots' showing all of the lights soon.

 

[Phil]

Great mods Bro. :bowdown:

I'm thinking a rare earth magnet, epoxy it to the inside of the cap. The trick would be getting the right thickness. Or you could pull the axle cap and drill a hole dead center and run the bolt through the cap with a nut and have it just long enough to go through the Glowryder and bolt up. opcorn:

Hummmm.... rare earth circular magnet.... Edmond Scientific here I come!
Kurt & I talked about drilling the cap, bolt, etc. May still do that. There might be a clearance issue with the electronics pack when the pack batteries are in. They come pretty close to the bottom of the chrome housing. Worth another look. Thanks Boss!:thumbup:

UPDATE--- Magnets ordered!!!!

 

[MarkLawson]

I've been wanting to do the GloRyder mod on the trailer, but gave up on the idea when I found the clearance wouldn't work. Glad you pursued it anyway. Am anxious to get a final assessment on how well it holds together.

Question... How did you get the plastic cap off? Is there a trick to it or did you just pry until it popped out?

Oh, and want pics of the exterior lights at night, with the lids closed. How well do they show?

 

[Phil]

I've been wanting to do the GloRyder mod on the trailer, but gave up on the idea when I found the clearance wouldn't work. Glad you pursued it anyway. Am anxious to get a final assessment on how well it holds together.

Question... How did you get the plastic cap off? Is there a trick to it or did you just pry until it popped out?

Oh, and want pics of the exterior lights at night, with the lids closed. How well do they show?

Mark- I took it to 93mph today for 30sec with the remainder of 10min at 75, and they didn't budge. When I got back, I pulled them off and added the Velcro I talked about. It's the WIDE variety that is REALLY strong. I really like Lamont's thought about the magnets so I ordered 4 that are 1/8" x 1.75" I'll epoxy 1 to the plastic cap and see how well ot holds, if not, I'll add the second to each side.

GETTING THE CAPS OFF- Just pry with a vert small screwdriver. They ARE hard to remove, but they will come off.

PICS---- Heeeere ya go, in the dark garage....

I'm thinking of adding chrome accent strips in a few places, to reflect the trailer lights. I'm a fan of purple, but black doesn't show it much of course. And I kinda like it being understated. They REALLY show nicely on the CanAm stickers, so that may happen soon.

 

[SpyderWolf]

Looking good my fellow light addict. :thumbup:

 

[Phil]

Looking good my fellow light addict. :thumbup:

You have always been my inspiration


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[Phil]

Great mods Bro. :bowdown:

I'm thinking a rare earth magnet, epoxy it to the inside of the cap. The trick would be getting the right thickness. Or you could pull the axle cap and drill a hole dead center and run the bolt through the cap with a nut and have it just long enough to go through the Glowryder and bolt up. opcorn:

REFERENCE--- http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?24907-Phil-s-Mods&p=388323&viewfull=1#post388323

We HAVE Magnets!!! They are rare earth neodymium magnets.

These puppies are REALLY strong!! I bought 4 2" and 4 1 1/2". Those white things are spacers. We accidentally got two stuck together and it took 10 minutes to slide them apart.

I think I'll use the smaller one and add a sheet of metal between the plastic cap and the magnet. I'm afraid that epoxying straight to the plastic may cause the plastic to break when the magnet is pulled away from the dust cap. We'll see...

How is neodymium pronounced?
From a dictionary: [nē"ōdim'ēum]
The only real trick to pronouncing it correctly is to treat the 'y' as an 'i'. It is pronounced as if it were spelled "neodimium" or "neo-DIM-eeum".

 

[hspyder]

Sirl, I have only one word: WOW!:clap::2thumbs::firstplace:

 

[SpyderWolf]

If it took you 10 minutes to slide one magnet off the other, then they should do the trick for you. Let us know how it turns out. Hopefully your Spyder will not be too attracted to other vehicles now though.

 

[MarkLawson]

I think I'll use the smaller one and add a sheet of metal between the plastic cap and the magnet. I'm afraid that epoxying straight to the plastic may cause the plastic to break when the magnet is pulled away from the dust cap. We'll see...

Will you use the same two screws to hold the metal sheet on that you used to attach the GloRyder base to the plastic cap? Is there a chance that the strong magnetic field might interfere with the switches on the circuit board? Have you done it yet???

 

[Phil]

Will you use the same two screws to hold the metal sheet on that you used to attach the GloRyder base to the plastic cap? Is there a chance that the strong magnetic field might interfere with the switches on the circuit board? Have you done it yet???

1. Yes, I'll use the screws to hold the metal in place. That way it will assist in distributing the pull load. I'm thinking very thin tin.
2. Magnetic interference?- Possible but I doubt it. The only item would be the motion sensor and that will depend on what is in the device. IF it's mercury, it's possible the magnet can mess that up.
3. Haven't tried it yet beyond a simple trial. I ended up having to order a THINNER magnet. The 1/8" is still too thick. I did some customization (aka grinding) to the 1/8" to fit it between the screws and learned that it was too thick. So... more magnets, 1/16", on order . They will STILL be strong enough, believe me. IF there is room, I may use both the magnet and the Velcro.

FYI---- The super duty Velcro that I currently have on there is really strong. It has pretty much full contact with both pieces. When I pop on the Gloryder/cap, I then twist it back and forth a little bit to get more of the hooks to engage the loops. It takes a pretty solid pull to get it to come off.

 

[MarkLawson]

1. Yes, I'll use the screws to hold the metal in place. That way it will assist in distributing the pull load. I'm thinking very thin tin.
2. Magnetic interference?- Possible but I doubt it. The only item would be the motion sensor and that will depend on what is in the device. IF it's mercury, it's possible the magnet can mess that up.
3. Haven't tried it yet beyond a simple trial. I ended up having to order a THINNER magnet. The 1/8" is still too thick. I did some customization (aka grinding) to the 1/8" to fit it between the screws and learned that it was too thick. So... more magnets, 1/16", on order . They will STILL be strong enough, believe me. IF there is room, I may use both the magnet and the Velcro.

FYI---- The super duty Velcro that I currently have on there is really strong. It has pretty much full contact with both pieces. When I pop on the Gloryder/cap, I then twist it back and forth a little bit to get more of the hooks to engage the loops. It takes a pretty solid pull to get it to come off.

Since wheel bearing hubs can get warm, did you use any special adhesive to make sure the Velcro stays in place? Thinking real hard at doing this & want to get all the info I can before placing the order.

Also, tell me about the design on the GloRyder caps. Custom?

 

[Phil]

Since wheel bearing hubs can get warm, did you use any special adhesive to make sure the Velcro stays in place? Thinking real hard at doing this & want to get all the info I can before placing the order.

Also, tell me about the design on the GloRyder caps. Custom?

Had not considered the heat! Good catch! Hummmmm. Lamont suggested pulling the bearing caps, drill a hole dead center, put a bolt through the back, use that as the anchor. Remains to be seen if they'll stay put. I plan on putting 300 miles on them this weekend to see how they do.

Design- yup, custom. Part of our company logo! Same on the front.


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[Phil]

Couple of Mods Revisited

From a recent meet and greet, I thought I'd revisit a few mods.

I added several LED lights to the rear fender. I pointed out in another thread that you want to remember when you are adding lights that you have a good way to remove that part! Here's a behind the scenes view of the fender:

For convenience, I used wire nuts and wrapped them in rubberized red tape to keep the water out of the connection. The 4 pin connector in the lower left is for the Kewlmetal Run/Stop/Turn light bar that is mounted to the fender. The 2 pin connector that looks like it is on the tire, connects to one that is out of the image on the right. It is the color LEDs that are all connected to the wireless remote controller. Make sure you dress your cables and use tie wraps. Here's what is looks like on the RT:

The blue on the tire is actually purple to the eye. I added LED license plate bolt lights to the bottom to highlight SPYDERLOVERS.COM. The crome accent on the tail shows off the purple LEDs tucked up above the license plate.

Let's look again at some of the other LEDs we've tucked in. The trunk:

These 2 LED strips stay on whenever the bike master lighting switch I added is on. No need for a switch in the trunk especially for these LEDs. They really light up the area. Got those at Pep Boys.

Also from Pep Boys- lighting the glove box:

The knobs are dimmers for the dash light (and a few others) and the TricFenderz. The point is that the cheap lights REALLY help to illuminate the box. Like the trunk, they stay on while the mail lighting master switch is on.

Here's the under dash LED cluster...

I mounted those to the pull out warning thingie. REALLY helps as a reading light. These are connected to the dimmer to help the eyes on night rydes.

I'm posting these again to point out that if you have a basic understanding of 12v+ and 12v- DC, YOU can do LEDs. Don't worry quite so much about the horror stories of load on the battery. LEDs are VERY low load. I have womewhere around 2000-3000 LEDs in various length strips with no issues. OK... so I blew a 3 amp fuse on the wireless controller. I upped it to 5 amps and all is well. I HIGHLY suggest that you run a dedicated, separate fuse block. DON'T hook extra things directly to the battery if you can help it. The reason is safety.

Light your world!!

 

[SpydherLuv]

Hey Phil, I've been following your mods for awhile and wanted to be sure to tell you how awesome your write-ups are - really great job! :clap::bowdown: I'm interested in a few of your mods and have some questions that either you, or others, can answer.

1. Where did you get your voltage gauge? And do you have the steps on how to install it?
2. Did you use a fuse box when you installed the dash 12v outlet?
3. Do you know whether installing the HID lights eliminates the 'flickering' that is common in the OEM headlights?
4. What power line did you tie the glove box LED strip into?

Thanks!
Anita