• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Phil's Mods

Thanks Phil... that helped to get me started on the foglights. I did them removing only the RT side panels and it got tedious but I managed without removing the Frunk. I used the XenonDepot foglight kit and it worked fine but the only thing I can see that is better than the $40. eBay kits is the nice rubber grommet and the nice pair of gloves. The installation instructions were as skimpy as the eBay kits. While I was installing these, the plastic base of one of the bulbs crumbled in my hand when I was twisting it into the socket. Now needing a replacement, I called the seller, KBCarStuff.com, and they declined to cover it under warranty, plus did not have any replacements in stock. They placed an order for one for $21+ with delivery expected in Feb!
At this point I decided to look around and found replacements on Ebay where I ordered a pair that was delivered in 3 days for $11. So much for good deals and service from XenonDepot.

First- congrats on doing the operation without removing the frunk. As I said, it's possible, but easier with removal. I'm impressed!

Eeeeeeoooowwww. SORRY to hear about the no warranty replacement issue. I had several emails with XD (Mike I think) when I did mine. No issues, just chatting. Anyway, I got the feeling that they would be more flexible than THAT! Most of us know they are a little more expensive, but I'm TOTALLY willing to pay extra to KNOW they are there for me if I have a problem. Bummer.

The pic is VERY clear and in my mind there is no WAY that would have happened in the natural course of insert/twist.

I'm hoping they read this and change the way they're handling your situation.
 
cjackg,

Unless I am mistaken, did you not try to install the HID bulb with the opaque spacer that holds the bulb in the packaging?

Steve
 
cjackg,

Unless I am mistaken, did you not try to install the HID bulb with the opaque spacer that holds the bulb in the packaging?

Steve
No, that was not the case, just as I told your rep on the Tel when I first reported this problem.

Both of the bulbs were tight when hand twisted into the socket, but the 2nd one broke in my hand just as I twisted it.
The replacements I bought later fit easily with no problems!
 
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Just totally awesome

Phil, I sat here and read every thread and comment. I'm amazed at the work and results. It's really refreshing to see people share every little detail to keep another from getting into a pickle. I missed the Woodville ride, but did hear several thumbs up on your ride.. One day soon I hope I'll be able to gaze upon the masterpiece you have created.:thumbup:..
 
Phil, I sat here and read every thread and comment. I'm amazed at the work and results. It's really refreshing to see people share every little detail to keep another from getting into a pickle. I missed the Woodville ride, but did hear several thumbs up on your ride.. One day soon I hope I'll be able to gaze upon the masterpiece you have created.:thumbup:..

TapaTalk doesn't have all of the emoticons (that I can see). But if I could, I'd put a bow-down with a humble looking smiley face.. Thanks so much.......



=============================
Phil - Tyler TX
Sent from my iPad4 using Tapatalk
 
Hey Phil, I loved your 12v battery/diode addition to the RT-622 trailer for charging and being able to disconnect and still have 6 hrs +/- of light to see by. I plan on doing that to mine. I can do basic AC wiring around the house, but I'm not very experienced in DC. I see several threads on adding fuse boxes in order to run all the extras.
Almost all of my main mod plans this year are lighting. Do think that it's wise that I go ahead and install an extra fuse box now and avoid having to pull all the panels and relocate the wiring and connections once I reach the breaking point, or am I already there right out of the gate?

This year's mod plans for lighting:

Bright sides (F and R)
Fender Tips, mud flaps, and LED amber to red fender strips
High Level Brake lamp with running light and brake kit
RT-622 stock harness


Under bike accent lighting (to come later)
Other accent lighting (to come later)
RT-622 Trailer 12v accents (lights to come later)

Thanks for all the time and help in advance, Phil ")
 
Hey Kev!

You'll be a natural with DC. Like wiring a house these days, run hot and neutral everywhere. Unlike AC, you can use a single fuse for all the LED work you've listed. Just like you add up loads to size a breaker, do the same on the LEDs and put your fuse value north of that. Estimating the LED loads is fine. Or take my approach, eyeball it then put in a 3amp and see if it holds well. If not, move it to a 5. Guaranteed the load will be small...

Good question on the fuse panel. I took the approach to get all the Tupperware off and while it was off, I did the fuse panel and the first set of LEDs all at one time. The real idea on the extra fuse panel is just like a large house wiring where you might add a sub panel to sort of isolate loads I'm case there 's any problem. I HIGHLY suggest getting 4 or 6 of the LeverLock things. I have a picture of them somewhere in this monster post. They make tying bunches of LEDs together much easier.

Do run a 'feeder' to some place on the back of the bike. I have a total of 3 feeders. Left front, right front and rear. Hence 6 of the LeverLocks. Then home run your lights to one of those 3 places. Like a home, it makes troubleshooting much easier.

Do remember the elements will at some point dampen or corrode your connections. 33 tape is your friend ;). I also have and use about 4 other kinds of tape for cosmetic to waterproofing.

Like I said at the start.... You'll do great! Make sure you post the results!!!!
Go Light Your Spyder World:)

=============================
Phil - Tyler TX
Sent from my iPad4 using Tapatalk
 
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Backup Camera

I was looking over some old posts and I realized that I forgot to post this :opps:

When I added the 622 trailer, i wanted to figure out the best way to back up the thing. My 4 wheeler has a reall great 120 degree camera, so I wanted Darth to have one also. I watched things that Dave (CincySpyder & Teddy) had done. Props to ya bro! And it's amazing the stuff you can find on the Internet! So after quite a bit of research, I bought this-- http://www.tadibrothers.com/Catalog/BackupCameraKits/36-Pop-Up-Motorcycle-Camera-Backup-System.

Here's the monitor, mounted high. I leave it on all the time. It acts as a rear view mirror!
Darth-CameraMon1.jpg


Darth-CameraMon3.jpg

Darth-CameraMon2.jpg


Before you ask... :).... I found that the monitor is not of the highest quality and thus the viewing angle is a bit picky. I had to angle it down. This was the fastest way to do that. The back sits on my toll tag, and the front is held by the industrial velcro. I've banged it around a bunch and it never has budged, so I think I'm good to go. I DO realize it may not be real weather proof and I need to figure out a solution for that part.
Darth-CameraMon5.jpg


The camera mount is a magnet. a REALLY strong neodymium magnet. While this is not totally professional, it works. I found that I could wedge the magnet between the layers of tupperware on the back hatch. There are 2 magnets to give it a bigger shelf, and to help aim the camera down a bit.
Darth-CameraMagMount1.jpg


With the help of another 90 degree small piece of metal, this is how the camera mounts (excuse the dust):
Darth-CameraCU1.jpg


I wanted it to be magnetic so IF I wanted to remove it to hide it, it would be easy. I also did not do a great job on the cabling, but that is to make it VERY easy to disconnect and swap out if needed. All of the extra cable fits nicely in the slot to the left in the picture:
Darth-CameraCable1.jpg

Sorry for the bad pic. There is a simple RCA connector video cable that goes from the back camera to the front monitor. Power for the camera comes from a switched +12v source in the back and the same in the front for the monitor. Here's how it looks in the "TaaaDaaaaah" picture:
Darth-CameraMonEnd.jpg


Later tonight, I hope to put up the pics of Pete's Dash Kit That I did this weekend!! Here's a preview......
Darth-Dash3-low.jpg


Later.......
 
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I think I'd have a harder time backing up using the camera monitor than just using the rear view mirrors. But you did a nice job as usual on adding the camera and monitor. :clap:
 
:yikes:Damn it! "farkle twin powers, activate!":roflblack:
hello, my name is Mike and I am also a modaholicnojoke You are an enabler Phil!
 
Thanks so much for the comments (insert bowdown here)

Ok.... On to installing Pete's Dash Kit for the Spyder RT........
===============================================

First, I have to say how professional PowerSportsWraps truly is. Pete and his staff kept me informed during the process. I got personal attention from Pete, no matter what the level of my question. He pointed me to the videos that really went a long way to calm the 'never done this before' jitters.

I start paying attention at the level of the packing on things I order. Weird, huh?! But it tells a lot about a company's attention to detail. When I opened the box ( and removed a small amount of filler) here's what I found:
Darth-PowerWrapBox.jpg


The box told me what I was receiving in picture form. I DO read... a lot! But there's nothing like a diagram to show what you get. There were a few other friendly sheets reminding me to watch the video, if I had not already ( I had). And that smell!!!! Pete will have to comment on what it is, but it's like new car, Mom's apple pie, spring morning and a new Spyder challenge all rolled into one. Sorry... Back to it...

Here's one of my mirrors before putting on the first piece ( I know... We all know what it looks like):
Darth-MirrorBefore.jpg

Here's the after......
Darth-MirrorAfter.jpg

I did this first because it was small. I also learned a few things. First I learned to follow the video and really heat the product. My heat gun died awhile back and Northern Tool was sold out last Friday (didn't plan well) so my bride's hair dryer was the stand in. Heat not only makes it flexible, but to me, SEEMS to make it temporarily less sticky. By that I mean it seemed that it was easier to move the product and re-lay it if I needed. The video helped me see that I should use my fingers to guide the edges to where I wanted them.

In the end, here's how it all came out. Not too many comments, just various angles and lighting to show how the dark burl wood look... looks :)

Darth-DashKitOH-1-1800.jpg


Darth-Dash10.jpg


Darth-Dash9.jpg


Darth-Dash8.jpg


Darth-Dash7.jpg


Darth-Dash5.jpg


Darth-Dash4-low.jpg


Darth-Dash3-low.jpg


Of note on the pic below... I knew I needed to cut holes in Pete's great work to put my light switches back in. This is 'pre-cut'. Nervous? You bet!!!!
Darth-Dash2.jpg


DashKit-1800.jpg


I also had to get it through my head that the pieces are MEANT to have gaps. It's part of the look. I was wanting an understated, walnut type burl wood look, and Pete made that happen. I'm lovin it!!!!


Phil, Tyler TX- from my iPad3.5 using Tapatalk HD
 
WHILE I HAD DARTH APART.......
I added a few more lights ( I really do need help).

I added LEDs inside of the saddle bags. It really will help at might. I also had a few of the LEDs you see below sitting around. I got them through another SpyderLovers friend awhile back.

Almost all lights on Darth are purple/UV. natively, the lights were about 5,000 degrees. Enter a friend that does lighting at our church. Yup that position actually exists. He had some extra purple gels used in theatrical lighting sitting around so, I got one from him. A little super glue and work with scissors and taaaadaaaaa---
Darth-SpotLight.jpg


Here it is lit, but please note at my iPhone just doesn't seem to render purple well. It looks blue in the picture, but it really is purple.
DarthSpotLight-lit.jpg


We'll see how long it lasts :). I added about 8 of these to accent color around the bike. Oh... I took this Saturday. I did clean my hands and did my nails before Sunday :)

Phil, Tyler TX- from my iPad3.5 using Tapatalk HD
 
I have an idear - HE WON'T

Phil as always, thanks for keeping us upto date, I am sure you have fired up the imagination of several Spyder Owners, I have learnt from your
posting and the knowledge you share


Eddie Sheppard
Reading UK



Spyder – RT-S SES (AUTO 2010 Model)


List of Mods :-
Added Zuno 660 - Garmin kit as supplied on the Spyder RT Limited
Digital Voltmeter and Digital Clock to replace Fuel and Temp gauge – Fuel and Temp now
displayed in Cluster Display
LED Bulbs Reversing Lights,Front position lights
HMT - Brake Light
Full Size Brake Pedal by Steve = TricLed.com
LED – Running lights
LED - Mud Flap lights
Rear extended Mud Flap
LED Light in Rear Trunk
Elka Shocks Stage 1 +R – Front and Rear
Shock Covers
Track Rod Covers
Spyderpops – BumpSkid .Missing Belt Grard & New Funk weatherstrip
BaJaRon – Custom Ignition Wire Set + NGK 2 Iridium DCPR8EIX. Spark Plugs
K&N Air Filter
Sport Tall Wide Clear Windshield – Cut down to 24” High
Chrome 2011 Front Lower Wind deflecors
Utopia Backrest
S/S Seat Prop
S/S Handlebar Weights
S/S Grills both sides matching
Bottom Panel S/S Protection
S/S stronger Funk Lid brackets
S/S Bracket for RBNS Hood for Zumo 660 GPS + TourTech Lockable Mount
Mirrors Zipped tied for added potection
Rubber Tank protector on glove box
Grip Puppies
Switch in Swith Cluster for Manual Fan operation
Power Socket in Switch Cluster and at Rear passenger Handrail
Rear Speaker Switch for passenger On/OFF
Upgraded Front/Rear J&M Speakers
Bluetooth Via Sony transmitter TMR- BT10 - On board Radio to Sena SMH10 Headsets
 
I have an idear - HE WON'T

Phil as always, thanks for keeping us upto date, I am sure you have fired up the imagination of several Spyder Owners, I have learnt from your
posting and the knowledge you share

Eddie Sheppard
Reading UK

That's exactly the idea Eddie. As I have watched your and other's postings and gotten ideas, I'm trying to stimulate the "I could do THAT" attitude. Lubricate the imagination. Trust me, this is all new territory for me and I'm making this stuff up as I go :).

BTW Eddie- not coming over this year. The big event I come to each year is in Manchester next week and it conflicts too close with SpyderFest. Maybe next year, and I'll try to plan time to take a train and visit with you!!
 
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