• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Help with adjusting belt tension & alignment please? Any step-by-step guides?

I'm very glad to hear that the issue was resolved quickly. Can you share what they found, and what they did to get you squared away?

I had it close, but they just made a 1/4 turn on the adjusters and it was good. I had the belt just barely touching the inner flange on the rear, but I had the front sprocket perfect. They're set to a credit card width now. I also confirmed that by me loosening the left side nut, and the axle nut wasn't a big deal. From now on I'll just loosen the axle nut a bit and go from there.
It was a learning experience to be sure, but it was stressing me out. Some of that came from working in a very hot garage (104°F).
Happy camper now!

20240716_163626.jpg

20240716_163930.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yes, I figured it wouldn't be able to come off the flared end. I just wouldn't call it fixed
In my brain that would be welded or machined to prevent this. Solid basically, but I understand what your saying.

First off, you made a wise decision to obtain qualified help rather than pursue a frustrating continuing situation.

Second, a lack of correct terminology and understanding of the rear axle's construction was a portion of the stumbling during the process. What you expected the axle to be, is not how the axle is manufactured. For ease of manufacturing, and lower costs, the axle is manufactured from two items, which then become secured together.

The axle shaft is made from a tube, both ends threaded. At axle manufacture, a nut is threaded on one end and permanently swaged to prevent removal of the nut under normal use. Yes, as you mentioned rather than swaging, that nut could have been welded. However, the axle needs to remain straight, and heat could distort the straightness, or alter any heat treat properties of the steel.

One reason I backed off from offering additional information was when the original person that posted, indicated on their Spyder the true axle nut was on the left, and the axle required being removed towards the right. This statement deviated from how the manuals and all Spyders I have worked on were assembled.

Regardless, again, as has been demonstrated, always best when a person realizes and understands the limits of their abilities and employs qualified help.

Ideally the original person that posted has no longer got belt vibrations, along with a correctly aligned belt.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I had it close, but they just made a 1/4 turn on the adjusters and it was good. I had the belt just barely touching the inner flange on the rear, but I had the front sprocket perfect. They're set to a credit card width now. I also confirmed that by me loosening the left side nut, and the axle nut wasn't a big deal. From now on I'll just loosen the axle nut a bit and go from there.
It was a learning experience to be sure, but it was stressing me out. Some of that came from working in a very hot garage (104°F).
Happy camper now!

View attachment 209424

View attachment 209425

If I lived close enough to Ron's shop, I would never pick a wrench up on my bike!!:thumbup:
 
I'm in a similar boat. On my 2023 F3-S towards the end of the summer, I started getting a really bad vibration and sometimes a noise on the left side only at around 3900 RPM in the 50mph range, all after I rolled over to 3k miles.

My thinking is that something's up with the belt - it either needs tightening or maybe even the alignment is off.

My question is: what is the correct N/ftlb tension for the belt? I can't seem to find a straight answer and so may be needing to go and buy the service manual. There was an older video on youtube that mentioned a 2018 F3 service manual that had 750N or 553 ft/lb - if that's the case, then those Kriket tools aren't going to work, but I see people using them.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The Kriket gages measure in a different format. They will work. They use lbs, but it might be Kriket lbs. The newer 2020+ models are using up to 220 lbs. I have my 2015 RTL at 165 with wheel on the ground.
If you're getting a whistling sound, some of the front pulley's were replaced with a white pulley BRP to eliminate the whistle. Don't remember what years for this. Vibration should get less or go away with a lower tension. I get a little now and then on the interstate, but a bump will trigger it, then another bump triggers it to stop vibrating.

Nothing is wrong with your belt, unless there is a stone in it. You can look at your belt and rear sprocket easily by moving the Spyder
 
Last edited by a moderator:
So here is the confusion I just bought the 2023 service manual. Under the belt drive system, it states the belt tension should be, with rear tire lifted off the ground, 775N +/-150N - that converts to around 570 ft/lb! There is no way those Kriket gauges would work at that, or you're setting you belt way too loose.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
So here is the confusion I just bought the 2023 service manual. Under the belt drive system, it states the belt tension should be, with rear tire lifted off the ground, 775N +/-150N - that converts to around 570 ft/lb! There is no way those Kriket gauges would work at that, or you're setting you belt way too loose.

well that's false conversion. spend some time looking over the threads dealing with belt tension or kricket gage
 
well that's false conversion. spend some time looking over the threads dealing with belt tension or kricket gage

It is not a false conversion. 775N does convert to 571 ft*lb. However the Krickets only measure in lb*force not ft*lb which is a different measure, that conversion is 174 lb*force. The issue is that isn't clean when people seem to talk about these numbers.
 
So here is the confusion I just bought the 2023 service manual. Under the belt drive system, it states the belt tension should be, with rear tire lifted off the ground, 775N +/-150N - that converts to around 570 ft/lb! There is no way those Kriket gauges would work at that, or you're setting you belt way too loose.

Isn't the service manual using a vibration calibration for tension with a meter? The Krikit is a static device and measures pounds, not "N". I think you'll find that most here say around 210 pounds on the Krikit is good for 2020+ Sypders.
Hope that helps.
 
With the wheel off the ground measure 775N.
775N = 570 Ft-Lb
also
775N = 174.2 Lb-Force
Krikit II measures from 100 to 300 Lb-Force.
174 Lb-Force is well within the Krikit II range.
 
It is not a false conversion. 775N does convert to 571 ft*lb. However the Krickets only measure in lb*force not ft*lb which is a different measure, that conversion is 174 lb*force. The issue is that isn't clean when people seem to talk about these numbers.

It will help to search and look over the threads about Kricket and belt tension. Hundreds or even thousands of Kricket gages have been sold and keep belt at a range of different tensions per the owner. If you go to a dealership, they will set it at the max rating or even higher than that, based on reports here on forum. A little lower tension will help keep the vibrations down some, without causing belt or pulley issues
 
It will help to search and look over the threads about Kricket and belt tension. Hundreds or even thousands of Kricket gages have been sold and keep belt at a range of different tensions per the owner. If you go to a dealership, they will set it at the max rating or even higher than that, based on reports here on forum. A little lower tension will help keep the vibrations down some, without causing belt or pulley issues

Thanks for the responses but I went through many of the threads here on the forum with some back and forth on the subject but I picked up a kricket 2 gauge and I'm finding the readings do not make any sense, as they are off the scale exceeding 300 lb*force scale, doesn't make sense for how much I can twist the belt (I find the issue with these types of devices am I putting too much force on it to throw the plastic needle off). I'm having a real issue and I need to either solve it by adjusting the belt or rule it out as the cause and for that I need precision. Thankfully I have a friend who works on commercial HVAC/compressions for a living, and he uses a sonic testers for all the compressor belt tensions. Since he is going to let me borrow one and with the service manual I have all the number to plug in to get a Newton reading. I see what that comes up with.
 
it states the belt tension should be, with rear tire lifted off the ground, 775N +/-150N - that converts to around 570 ft/lb!

No, you are getting your conversion units all mixed up. N are Newtons...the metric measure of force. ft/lb are foot/pounds... an imperial measure of torque. Force is a load applied at a single point directly on an object, whereas Torque is the measure of a force applied at a distance from an object causing it to turn.

Newtons also take the planets gravity into account, as gravity acts on all things. To convert from lbs force to Newtons, simply multiply by 4.4 eg. 10 lbs force = 44 Newtons. To go the other way (Newtons to lbs force) divide by 4.4.

If BRP's spec is 775N +/- 150N, that converts to 176 lbs +/- 34 lbs.
 
Newtons does not convert to lb/ft.
Lb/ft is a measurement of torque, while newton is a measurement of force.
775 N converts to 174.23 lbf, which is pounds of force not torque.
 
Back
Top