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Please help me clarify my Belt tension concerns?

That's just the thing, the belt side end cap hasn't budged at all. In fact, I don't think the adjuster on the belt side is really loosening the belt. I have been getting lower Kricket readings but after tightening everything up and taking it for a ride, it seems the tension goes back to how it started.

The right side... if I loosen the axle nut a whole turn then go to the left with the same side adjuster, the end cap gets loose. The end cap on the right side gets loose easy. The belt side end cap hasn't budged at all.

Read this thread about how I solved the problem of the axle creeping and the alignment going wacky when tightening the axle nut, particularly post #14.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...ment-Problem-amp-Question&highlight=alignment
 
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I like the alignment. I think the tension can still come down.

Truthfully Donnie, I wouldn't change a thing. That's beautiful alignment. You've got 180# with the Cricket gauge and you're using it correctly. You are well below the max tension spec. Why veto that reading because of an old shade-tree mechanic practice of twisting the belt. Which one is more accurate?

And besides, cogged belts make noise. Your engine and gearbox is full of straight cut gears. They make noise. And the air being displaced by the belt as it enters the front and rear sprockets makes noise. Worry less. My 2 cents worth.
 
Truthfully Donnie, I wouldn't change a thing. That's beautiful alignment. You've got 180# with the Cricket gauge and you're using it correctly. You are well below the max tension spec. Why veto that reading because of an old shade-tree mechanic practice of twisting the belt. Which one is more accurate?

And besides, cogged belts make noise. Your engine and gearbox is full of straight cut gears. They make noise. And the air being displaced by the belt as it enters the front and rear sprockets makes noise. Worry less. My 2 cents worth.

I like this. Yes.. if the alignment stays as it is and the tension is in the ballpark, I'm going to torque it the rest of the way, on the ground. It's just at 150 pounds because that's the highest that my torque wrench does. I just got one delivered today that goes to 200.
 
I like this. Yes.. if the alignment stays as it is and the tension is in the ballpark, I'm going to torque it the rest of the way, on the ground. It's just at 150 pounds because that's the highest that my torque wrench does. I just got one delivered today that goes to 200.

Save yourself some money and send it back. Buy one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Harley-David...48&sprefix=harley+davidson+wre,aps,179&sr=8-3

With this wrench extension you can easily do 200 lb-ft with your 150 lb-ft torque wrench. That's what I do. Divide 200 by the total combined wrench length and multiply by the length of the torque wrench. Just make sure the HD wrench is in a straight line with the torque wrench. For example if the torque wrench is 15" long and the HD wrench is 7" long you have 200/22 x 15 = 136.
 
Save yourself some money and send it back. Buy one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Harley-David...48&sprefix=harley+davidson+wre,aps,179&sr=8-3

With this wrench extension you can easily do 200 lb-ft with your 150 lb-ft torque wrench. That's what I do. Divide 200 by the total combined wrench length and multiply by the length of the torque wrench. Just make sure the HD wrench is in a straight line with the torque wrench. For example if the torque wrench is 15" long and the HD wrench is 7" long you have 200/22 x 15 = 136.

Thanks but I like the one I got. It's a big one and easy to get it torqued.
 
Ok I understand to adjust the rear.
What should the front pulley belt alignment look like?
Will the adjustment on the rear take care of it.
Could the front be off and the rear belt pulley relationship be ok?
 
Ok I understand to adjust the rear.
What should the front pulley belt alignment look like?
Will the adjustment on the rear take care of it.
Could the front be off and the rear belt pulley relationship be ok?

There is a spec for it but pretty much everyone ignores it. The front pulley has a flange on both sides so the belt won't come off. If the belt rides hard against one of the flanges all the time that would indicate the motor/transmission is not aligned perfectly perpendicular to the line between the front and rear pulleys. Correcting that is a warranty issue and not an easy fix for us if the bike is out of warranty.

So, generally speaking, the rear pulley tracking is what matters and the front pulley tracking is what it is.
 
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