Help with adjusting belt tension & alignment please? Any step-by-step guides?

[Dasmoetorhead]

I'm having troubles with both adjustments. Let's assume my belt tension is a bit high (220) using the Krikit II tool with tires on the ground, and the belt is approx 1/8" from the rear sprocket flange. The belt is touching the outer flange of the front sprocket.
I must be doing something wrong. I think the tension is within spec.
What is the step-by-step procedure for making both adjustments?
I've been loosening both axle nuts to start with. Is this wrong? Since the tension is at the upper level, can I just adjust the alignment? I'm confused and it's 104° in my shop. I want to ride, but don't want to break down on the road.
Help an old dude please.

 

[PMK]

Step by step:
1) As per the BRP maintenance manual, raise Spyder and set belt tension to specs via left side axle adjuster.
2) Accomplish belt alignment as per specs in manual by adjusting right side axle adjuster.
3) Without allowing the wheel alignment to move, tighten rear axle to torque specified in maintenance manual.
4) Test ride Spyder and ensure belt alignment is accurate.
5) If alignment is not accurate, loosen rear axle and readjust via right side axle adjuster.
6) Repeat steps 2,3,4,5 as needed until alignment is correct after test ride.

Be aware that very minor adjustments to the axle adjusters result in significant changes to belt tension and alignment.

 

[Mikey]

You are trying to do probably one of the hardest things to do in my book!! Once you get the steps down and all of the short cuts, it will be an easy job. Remember small adjustments make big moves and work slow and most of all make sure the end caps are kept tight at the end of the adjustment! Left side adjuster is your tension side, right side adjuster is your alignment side. If your belt is riding pretty good on the sprocket right now and it's too tight or loose then you have to adjust both sides evenly in or out to get your tension right, once that's right then you only play with the right side to get it to track right on the sprocket. Last thing to do when done is recheck your tension one last time, because it will change a small amount when aligning the belt left and right. The good part is once you have it where you want it, you'll not have to bother with it until you have to do something with the back tire. Good Luck

 

[Dasmoetorhead]

Thanks for the info, but BRP's procedure seems vague. No mention of running it in gear while jacked up. Is this part of the procedure? When do you tighten the axle nuts, while it's still jacked up or once on the ground?

 

[Peter Aawen]

Thanks for the info, but BRP's procedure seems vague. No mention of running it in gear while jacked up. Is this part of the procedure? When do you tighten the axle nuts, while it's still jacked up or once on the ground?

If you do this for more than a second or three, you'll almost certainly get VSS or ABS warnings &/or codes... :shocked:

That might seem a real problem, but because they're only caused by the front wheels not rotating at the same speed as the rear wheel, they generally 'self remedy' if you just ride carefully for a hundred metres or so.

I find it's best to tighten the axle nut once it's back on the ground, cos if I do it while the rear wheel is still in the air, it ALWAYS moves some. Put the wheel back on the ground, check the belt tension again just to be sure to be sure; maybe roll the Spyder back & forth a few metres to watch what the belt alignment does going forwards, remembering that it ALWAYS 'walks' some on the pulley when moving backwards, so ignore that; THEN Test ride the Spyder and ensure belt alignment is accurate; rinse and repeat as necessary as per steps 5 & 6 above! :thumbup:

 

[Ransman1]

I have a 2014 RTL and when we do the alignment and belt tension with the wheel off the ground. We set the belt about the width of a credit card from the inside flange on the rear. Then run bike in gear . Belt alignment stays in line on the test run on the stand. The problem comes when we let the bike back down on the ground and take it for a test ride. belt will not stay in alignment and walks out probably almost to the outside of the rear sprocket. Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

[Dasmoetorhead]

.....

I find it's best to tighten the axle nut once it's back on the ground, cos if I do it while the rear wheel is still in the air, it ALWAYS moves some. Put the wheel back on the ground, check the belt tension again just to be sure to be sure; maybe roll the Spyder back & forth a few metres to watch what the belt alignment does going forwards, remembering that it ALWAYS 'walks' some on the pulley when moving backwards, so ignore that; THEN Test ride the Spyder and ensure belt alignment is accurate; rinse and repeat as necessary as per steps 5 & 6 above! :thumbup:

You say axle nut. Do you mean both axle nuts?
I've been working on it again, and I finally have the belt not touching the outer flange of the front pully and the belt is very close to the inner flange on the rear sprocket
Tension on the ground on upper middle of the belt is set at 200 lbs w/ the KrikitII gauge. I still don't like it. Short test ride didn't change anything. I might just leave it and see what happens. Such a simple task is throwing me for a loop.


Thanks. I've done what you have suggested 5 times, and no joy yet :-(>

 

[2dogs]

I have a 2014 RTL and when we do the alignment and belt tension with the wheel off the ground. We set the belt about the width of a credit card from the inside flange on the rear. Then run bike in gear . Belt alignment stays in line on the test run on the stand. The problem comes when we let the bike back down on the ground and take it for a test ride. belt will not stay in alignment and walks out probably almost to the outside of the rear sprocket. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Your belt will walk back and forth across the rear sprocket, as long as it stays on the sprocket, you're good. Mine does the same thing.

 

[DGoebel]

I have a 2014 RTL and when we do the alignment and belt tension with the wheel off the ground. We set the belt about the width of a credit card from the inside flange on the rear. Then run bike in gear . Belt alignment stays in line on the test run on the stand. The problem comes when we let the bike back down on the ground and take it for a test ride. belt will not stay in alignment and walks out probably almost to the outside of the rear sprocket. Any ideas would be appreciated.

And you're not checking after backing correct, only riding it forward, coming to a stop, and checking, right? Mine walks almost anytime I back into my garage, but resets when driving forward.

 

[PMK]

You say axle nut. Do you mean both axle nuts?
I've been working on it again, and I finally have the belt not touching the outer flange of the front pully and the belt is very close to the inner flange on the rear sprocket
Tension on the ground on upper middle of the belt is set at 200 lbs w/ the KrikitII gauge. I still don't like it. Short test ride didn't change anything. I might just leave it and see what happens. Such a simple task is throwing me for a loop.


Thanks. I've done what you have suggested 5 times, and no joy yet :-(>

Regarding the axle nut, there is only one. The opposite end is a nut secured to the axle spindle. When tightening or loosening the axle, always turn the nut that is not secured to the spindle. Never rotate the axle as that will shift the axle adjusters, causing errors.

In regards to making adjustments with the rear wheel raised and engine running, gearbox engaged, that is not published in the maintenance manual. Doing so is entirely at your discretion. Some folks spin the rear wheel by hand to accomplish belt alignment. Entirely up to you the method you prefer.

As for tightening the axle, being rear wheel raised vs weight on wheels, again, that is at your discretion. My suggestion and method is weight on wheels while I tighten the rear axle.

Depending upon the videos you watch, the posts you read, and more, you will find that there is certainly more than one way to accomplish the task. Sometimes you need to find what you prefer best.

 

[Dasmoetorhead]

Well both of my axle nuts spin. Maybe I've screwed something up.
I'm bringing it in tomorrow to the shop

There's a nut on each side. I can't tell the difference except the left side axle end is kinda flared. I've been loosening both of the what I call nuts. I guess I'm totally confused. I don't believe the axle was spun but idk. The left side nut is not and was not secured to the axle as far as I know. I'll let the pros figure it out and I'll be watching like a hawk.
Thanks for your you help PMK.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Well both of my axle nuts spin. Maybe I've screwed something up.
I'm bringing it in tomorrow to the shop

There's a nut on each side. I can't tell the difference except the left side axle end is kinda flared. I've been loosening both of what I call nuts. I guess I'm totally confused. I don't believe the axle was spun but idk. The left side nut is not and was not secured to the axle as far as I know. I'll let the pros figure it out and I'll be watching like a hawk.
Thanks for your you help PMK.

That's the end that's fixed to the axle - do NOT turn that one, cos if you do, it turns the axle & moves things that'll mess up your tension &/or alignment... :banghead: So you need to do ALL your 'tightening' on the other side!! :thumbup:

Mind you, IIRC, that 'nut that's fixed to the axle' is meant to be on the muffler side of the bike... :dontknow: But who knows what's correct, I've seen them come from the dealers new with them on the other side too...

 

[EdMat]

Peter, every 2015+ that I have seen has the fixed nut on the left side. Of course they may do it different below the equator since y'all have to live upside down all the time. roflmao

 

[Peter Aawen]

Peter, every 2015+ that I have seen has the fixed nut on the left side. Of course they may do it different below the equator since y'all have to live upside down all the time. roflmao

I did wonder??

 

[Dasmoetorhead]

The terminology is what's killing me here. The left side 36 mm nut is not fixed. How can it be. It's threaded. If it was fixed, wouldn't it just be a regular bolt threaded only on one side, and the other end a hex head? If it's threaded on both ends in my mind it's not a bolt.

 

[Peter Aawen]

The terminology is what's killing me here. The left side 36 mm nut is not fixed. How can it be. It's threaded. If it was fixed, wouldn't it just be a regular bolt threaded only on one side, and the other end a hex head? If it's threaded on both ends in my mind it's not a bolt.

One end of the axle has a 'nut' on it which is fixed in place by the flared end of the axle tube - it won't move with relation to the axle tube if you spin the nut (or at least, it SHOULDN'T!! ) and it WON'T come off the axle tube, while the other end is a (usually shiny) nut that WILL come off the axle tube. :thumbup:

That fixed nut on the end of the axle tube SHOULD NOT BE TURNED during your alignment/tensioning procedure, you need to HOLD THAT END STILL during tightening, otherwise you'll very likely move the axle tube a smidge and mess up the alignment/tension you just set!! :gaah:

Make sense?? :dontknow:

 

[Dasmoetorhead]

Yes, I figured it wouldn't be able to come off the flared end. I just wouldn't call it fixed
In my brain that would be welded or machined to prevent this. Solid basically, but I understand what your saying.

 

[TheMariner]

Howdy.

Dunno if this helps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fuRgt7bt5PI&list=WL&index=28

 

[Dasmoetorhead]

Daniel and Adrian at BajaRon's had me fixed in 15 minutes. At least I didn't damage anything. Mission accomplished. Then I had a nice ride home (1hr) in the rain.

 

[Poppie65]

I'm very glad to hear that the issue was resolved quickly. Can you share what they found, and what they did to get you squared away?