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Dealer set 2022 RTL tire pressures waay high - what do you use?

20 rear? I thought rear was 30

Ahh-cool, you really do have to be sooooooo careful when discussing tyre pressures. ALWAYS ask the question - are you running aftermarket tyres?. In my opinion, it is as essential to include that tyre info in your signature as it is to include your model year…… but we can’t even get people to include their model in their signature. It is sooo frustrating :gaah:

Pete
 
They quit doing inspections or emissions for bikes or trikes in Utah. Just pay up for a sticker.

In some ways that's way more convenient, but in others it scares the living daylights out of me.
 
Hardly anyone on this site has ever checked their tire pressures using the chalk mark method on their tire treads. Amazing how such a simple test gets no attention at all. JMO
 
Hardly anyone on this site has ever checked their tire pressures using the chalk mark method on their tire treads. Amazing how such a simple test gets no attention at all. JMO

I do generally show that method to new riders/drivers as an option when we're discussing tire pressures, but most consider &/or report that they find that using a tire pressure gauge to check their tire's cold air pressures before they start riding then checking them again about an hour later & applying the 4psi rule, and doing that a number of times over a few weeks to get close to what pressures work for them in a variety of conditions is much easier... still a bit of a pain, but MUCH easier than using the chalk/paint/wet tire method! :rolleyes: And if you check your pressures before you start (TPMS is another great tool! ;) ) then the 4psi rule is repeatable any time you head out there onto the road, so you can do a quick check whenever you ryde, if you want to! :ohyea:

But regardless of how hard/easy it is to do, the chalk/paint/wet tire method definitely is another useful tool that works pretty well at getting your tire pressures into the right range FOR YOU, even if you really need to do it a few times under a variety of load/conditions to get a good idea of what pressures are likely to work better than the 'One Pressure (MIGHT) Fits Most' despite the potential for different loads/riding styles/ambient conditions/road surfaces specified by the Tire Placard. After all, the range of size in tires that our Spyders/Rykers can run won't really hold a massive volume of air, so the 'good' range of pressures for anyone ryding/loading their Spyders/Rykers in any way near their design specs isn't going to vary all that much! :thumbup:
 
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Hardly anyone on this site has ever checked their tire pressures using the chalk mark method on their tire treads. Amazing how such a simple test gets no attention at all. JMO

:agree: and here's why ( IMHO ) as Peter said above .... the Difference in tire Brand ( Auto vs. Kenda's ) tire size, HARD road surface composition, temperature, rider size / weight, and riding style is so SMALL.... it's meaningless for the avg. everyday rider ..... For the professional or even amateur RACER it's a different story .... ride more - worry less .....Mike :thumbup:
 
I don't know what the chalk method is?
You can't check the front tires on a ride unless you carry an air compressor. As soon as you put your gauge on you will lose about 1 or 2 PSI which is about 10% of the PSI
I use a TPMS on all my vehicles
 
I don't know what the chalk method is?
You can't check the front tires on a ride unless you carry an air compressor. As soon as you put your gauge on you will lose about 1 or 2 PSI which is about 10% of the PSI
I use a TPMS on all my vehicles

You are absolutely correct about the 1 or 2 loss in PSI. With the PSIs we run, 1 or 2 means much more than if we were running say 80/90 PSI. Also, ambient influences will affect us more. I also run TPMS (FOBOs) for that very reason. The chalk method is simply a yardstick method to get you into the ballpark so to speak. It's not for fine tuning your PSIs. Use a piece of chalk to make a mark across the tread of your tire. Then drive in a straight line for a short distance and examine the chalk mark. I mark next to the stem to make it easier to find. If the mark is gone in the center of the tire and remains on the two outside edges then you have too much PSI. If the mark is still showing on the center and gone on the outside edges then you need more PSI. More importantly, if the mark is gone on one side of the tire and not on the other side, then you have a serious alignment problem. I might also suggest you get a tire tread depth gauge. That can also help give you an insight as to how your tires are wearing. Good luck in understanding and playing with your PSIs but don't let it interfere with the enjoyment of riding your spyder.
 
My 2014 RT got a new set of tires before 2K miles. I installed Continental Pro Contact on the rear and General Altimax T43 on the rear. I used 19 PSI front and 25 PSI rear. The Altimax rear tire needed to be replaced much much earlier than the Pro Contact. I drove/rode 43K miles on the Pro Contact tire. Then I put on Vredestein Quatrac 5 front tire at 18 PSI and Vredestein Sprint rear at 20 PSI. A dealership set the tire pressure right. Some dealerships are knowledgeable. My concern is that the tires look low. I am concerned that the 18 front pressure is too low. Since the tires for automobiles require a minimum of 35 lbs which is too high for the Spyder, is that 18 PSI damaging the wires that keep the tire in place. That is, there are wires installed in the edge of the tire that give it the strengnth to remain on the tire. The argument I have with a Professional truck driving friend is that the pressure is too low. If you take a wire and bend it many times it will break. The argument is that as we drive, we are bending the wires too much and they will break. I don't think so but I'd like to hear from someone who know if there is any possibility that the steel wires will break sooner. But my tires do look too low at 18 PSI
 
My 2014 RT got a new set of tires before 2K miles. I installed Continental Pro Contact on the rear and General Altimax T43 on the rear. I used 19 PSI front and 25 PSI rear. The Altimax rear tire needed to be replaced much much earlier than the Pro Contact. I drove/rode 43K miles on the Pro Contact tire. Then I put on Vredestein Quatrac 5 front tire at 18 PSI and Vredestein Sprint rear at 20 PSI. A dealership set the tire pressure right. Some dealerships are knowledgeable. My concern is that the tires look low. I am concerned that the 18 front pressure is too low. Since the tires for automobiles require a minimum of 35 lbs which is too high for the Spyder, is that 18 PSI damaging the wires that keep the tire in place. That is, there are wires installed in the edge of the tire that give it the strengnth to remain on the tire. The argument I have with a Professional truck driving friend is that the pressure is too low. If you take a wire and bend it many times it will break. The argument is that as we drive, we are bending the wires too much and they will break. I don't think so but I'd like to hear from someone who know if there is any possibility that the steel wires will break sooner. But my tires do look too low at 18 PSI

NO, running 18 psi in those tires under that load is not damaging anything!! It's the air inside the bag (or tire) that carries the load imposed upon it - if you take a tire that is capable of carrying a much greater load at a given pressure, and you reduce that load by about one half, you ALSO NEED to reduce that air pressure by about one half, or your tires are OVER-inflated, with all the negatives and increased risks that go along with that!! :lecturef_smilie:

And you need to remember that non-motorcycle radial tires for cars (and Spyders! :p ) are MEANT to bulge out in the sidewalls where they sit on the ground - so when you are stopped and 'looking at them', they are effectively MEANT to look as tho they are running somewhat low in pressure!! It's the radial construction and the bagging in their sidewalls that allows them to work as well as they can do in use by keeping a larger percentage of the tread flat and in contact with the road surface during said use, especially while cornering; over-inflate them on your Spyder by as little as 2 psi and you'll be lifting at least part of that 'intended contact patch' off the road surface and reducing your traction/increasing the risk of sliding! The Radial tires we are talking about are even MEANT to look AND feel softer in use than your Professional truck driving friend's tires do too!! :rolleyes: Just remember, YOU CANNOT TELL IF A RADIAL TIRE IS AT THE CORRECT PRESSURE JUST BY LOOKING! They will even look 'flat' if they are somewhat dangerously over-inflated; and in fact, if they DON'T have that 'bulge in the sidewall' that makes them 'look a bit low' in pressure, then they CANNOT do their best for you or work in the way they were designed to work, and you WILL be running significantly increased risks of loss of traction, control, &/or catastrophic tire failure!! :gaah:

I've said it here before, and I guess I'll probably say it again too, but just like back in the day it took many car drivers quite a while to get used to the look and feel of radial tires vs that of cross ply tires way back when radials first came out, with their bulging sidewalls, softer ride, and 'sorta spongier' feel - all if which lead some to over-inflate their radial tires, thereby causing accidents &/or blow-outs as a result! :yikes: Well just like that, if you've been running around on over-inflated radial tires fitted to your Spyder for a while, then changing to running a much more appropriate (lower) pressure WILL look and feel different for a while! But you should get used to it pretty quickly, IF you persist and start feeling & recognising the advantages you can get thru not running over-inflated radial tires on a vehicle that weighs less than half of the tire's maximum load rating! :lecturef_smilie:

I reckon that you don't even think twice about running the tires on your car at less than their maximum pressure &/or load rating, so why all the fuss about running effectively the same tires at an even lower pressure when the load imposed upon them is even less again?! :dontknow:

Btw, if you're still running 20 psi in your rear Vredestein and you'n any load you put on your Spyder doesn't top saaay, 450+ pounds or so, then you should probably also drop your Vredestein rear tire pressure to no less than 14 psi and no more than 18 psi, or you'll wear that one out quicker than you need to as well, AND you'll also be running at a reduced traction level; an increased risk of damage from road debris etc; subjecting it and yourself to a harsher ride than is necessary; you'll be over-working & effectively prematurely cooking your suspension; and probably more besides that I've missed atm too!! Very few people are big enough or overload their Spyder enough to need to run more than 18 psi in any of the 'real' car tires/sizes that'll safely fit our Spyders! :banghead:

Just Sayin' :thumbup:
 
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NO, running 18 psi in those tires under that load is not damaging anything!! It's the air inside the bag (or tire) that carries the load imposed upon it - if you take a tire that is capable of carrying a much greater load at a given pressure, and you reduce that load by about one half, you ALSO NEED to reduce that air pressure by about one half, or your tires are OVER-inflated, with all the negatives and increased risks that go along with that!! :lecturef_smilie:

I'm not following your logic here.

My truck's tires are each rated at 3042 lbs @80psi, based on what you stated above, if I'm not carrying a load at or near 3k lbs (per tire), then I should reduce that 80psi?
 
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I'm not following your logic here.

My truck's tires are each rated at 3042 lbs @80psi, based on what you stated above, if I'm not carrying a load at or near 3k lbs (per tire), then I should reduce that 80psi?

If you're talking about a 'truck' that's running 'Passenger construction' radial tires, and not what I & everybody else in Oz calls a 'truck' (ie. a heavy haulage vehicle, which should be running a somewhat different type of tire, even if it is still technically a radial tire! ;) ) then Yes - if you have 'Passenger construction' tires fitted to your vehicle that are NOT carrying anything near their Maximum Rated Load, then you DO NOT need and SHOULD NOT be running the tire's Maximum Rated Pressure, which allows them to carry that Maximum Load! As I wrote earlier, in what I thought was fairly straight forward & quite logical - "if you take a tire that is capable of carrying a much greater load at a given pressure, and you reduce that load by about one half, you ALSO NEED to reduce that air pressure by about one half, or your tires are OVER-inflated, with all the negatives and increased risks that go along with that!!" :lecturef_smilie:

The critical thing here is those ratings - Passenger construction tires have a "MAXIMUM Load Rating of xx pounds (or kgs) at a MAXIMUM PRESSURE of yy PSI"- and the only time you should need that Maximum Pressure is if you are asking those tires to carry their Maximum Load; in other words, if you're not loading the tire to its MAXIMUM load then it doesn't need to be and shouldn't be run at its MAXIMUM pressure!! :lecturef_smilie:

I seriously doubt that you'd be running the Passenger construction tires you have on your family sedan or sports car at their Maximum load OR their Maximum pressure, even if you are running them at the recommended tire placard pressure - there's usually a fairly substantial 'safety margin' in the vehicle's prescribed tire size, load rating, and pressure; so the Recommended Tire Pressures for your family sedan or sports car are likely somewhat lower than their Maximum Rated Pressure because you aren't loading the tires up to their Maximum Rated Load limit so you don't need or want them at that Maximum Pressure. So what's so difficult to understand about doing exactly the same thing for your Spyder or anything else running the same Passenger construction type tires?? :dontknow:
 
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Original tires all around. Check only when going on multi day trip. 20 psi fronts, 26 rear. After 12000 miles, tires look good. No complaints with OEM tires in hot weather, rain or cold on flat or curvy roads. Just saying...
 
If you're talking about a 'truck' that's running 'Passenger construction' radial tires, and not what I & everybody else in Oz calls a 'truck' (ie. a heavy haulage vehicle, which should be running a somewhat different type of tire, even if it is still technically a radial tire! ;) ) then Yes - if you have 'Passenger construction' tires fitted to your vehicle that are NOT carrying anything near their Maximum Rated Load, then you DO NOT need and SHOULD NOT be running the tire's Maximum Rated Pressure, which allows them to carry that Maximum Load! As I wrote earlier, in what I thought was fairly straight forward & quite logical - "if you take a tire that is capable of carrying a much greater load at a given pressure, and you reduce that load by about one half, you ALSO NEED to reduce that air pressure by about one half, or your tires are OVER-inflated, with all the negatives and increased risks that go along with that!!" :lecturef_smilie:

The critical thing here is those ratings - Passenger construction tires have a "MAXIMUM Load Rating of xx pounds (or kgs) at a MAXIMUM PRESSURE of yy PSI"- and the only time you should need that Maximum Pressure is if you are asking those tires to carry their Maximum Load; in other words, if you're not loading the tire to its MAXIMUM load then it doesn't need to be and shouldn't be run at its MAXIMUM pressure!! :lecturef_smilie:

I seriously doubt that you'd be running the Passenger construction tires you have on your family sedan or sports car at their Maximum load OR their Maximum pressure, even if you are running them at the recommended tire placard pressure - there's usually a fairly substantial 'safety margin' in the vehicle's prescribed tire size, load rating, and pressure; so the Recommended Tire Pressures for your family sedan or sports car are likely somewhat lower than their Maximum Rated Pressure because you aren't loading the tires up to their Maximum Rated Load limit so you don't need or want them at that Maximum Pressure. So what's so difficult to understand about doing exactly the same thing for your Spyder or anything else running the same Passenger construction type tires?? :dontknow:

Yes, here in the US most refer to their pick-up truck as just a truck. Yes, it's running passenger truck tires.

" if you have 'Passenger construction' tires fitted to your vehicle that are NOT carrying anything near their Maximum Rated Load, then you DO NOT need and SHOULD NOT be running the tire's Maximum Rated Pressure, which allows them to carry that Maximum Load!"

"The critical thing here is those ratings - Passenger construction tires have a "MAXIMUM Load Rating of xx pounds (or kgs) at a MAXIMUM PRESSURE of yy PSI"- and the only time you should need that Maximum Pressure is if you are asking those tires to carry their Maximum Load; in other words, if you're not loading the tire to its MAXIMUM load then it doesn't need to be and shouldn't be run at its MAXIMUM pressure!! "

You sure about that? Can you explain then why the placard in my truck's driver's door tells me to air the back tires to 80psi cold and the front tires to 60psi cold?

Same for my motorhome. The tires are rated for 80psi max cold, and the placard tells me to air them to 80psi (dual tires) rear and 70psi front cold.
 
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Yes, here in the US most refer to their pick-up truck as just a truck. Yes, it's running passenger truck tires.

" if you have 'Passenger construction' tires fitted to your vehicle that are NOT carrying anything near their Maximum Rated Load, then you DO NOT need and SHOULD NOT be running the tire's Maximum Rated Pressure, which allows them to carry that Maximum Load!"

"The critical thing here is those ratings - Passenger construction tires have a "MAXIMUM Load Rating of xx pounds (or kgs) at a MAXIMUM PRESSURE of yy PSI"- and the only time you should need that Maximum Pressure is if you are asking those tires to carry their Maximum Load; in other words, if you're not loading the tire to its MAXIMUM load then it doesn't need to be and shouldn't be run at its MAXIMUM pressure!! "

You sure about that? Can you explain then why the placard in my truck's driver's door tells me to air the back tires to 80psi cold and the front tires to 60psi cold?

Same for my motorhome. The tires are rated for 80psi max cold, and the placard tells me to air them to 80psi (dual tires) rear and 70psi front cold.

If you're not carrying the maximum load the tire is rated for on each tire, then you shouldn't be running the maximum pressure that tire is rated for. Are you sure that your vehicle's tire placard says to run each tire's maximum rated pressure even when you're not carrying that much in the way of load on each tire?? :dontknow:
 
You sure about that? Can you explain then why the placard in my truck's driver's door tells me to air the back tires to 80psi cold and the front tires to 60psi cold?

Same for my motorhome. The tires are rated for 80psi max cold, and the placard tells me to air them to 80psi (dual tires) rear and 70psi front cold.

I think he is 100 % sure of that. I would like to see a pic of that door plate.
 
Don't trust my reading skills? ;)

I've been doing it for a few years now. :2thumbs:

tires.jpg
 

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Don't trust my reading skills? ;)

I've been doing it for a few years now. :2thumbs:

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Can you find & if it's there, show us a pic of anything along the lines of 'Maximum Load xx Lbs(kgs) at Maximum Pressure yy psi' printed on the sidewall of the tire itself too; and maybe a pic of the size detail on the tire sidewall as well?? :dontknow:
 
Can you find & if it's there, show us a pic of anything along the lines of 'Maximum Load xx Lbs(kgs) at Maximum Pressure yy psi' printed on the sidewall of the tire itself too; and maybe a pic of the size detail on the tire sidewall as well?? :dontknow:

Yes, of course I can find it.

I already gave you this info above.

My truck's tires are each rated at 3042 lbs @80psi. 245/75R16
 
Yes, of course I can find it.

I already gave you this info above.

My truck's tires are each rated at 3042 lbs @80psi.

Can you show us a pic of this bit on one of your tires, where it says 'Maximum Load xx Lbs(kgs) at Maximum Pressure yy psi'? :dontknow:
 
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