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2008 Spyder manual shift, starts rough after hot 33,00 miles

Little checking

On the vaccum hoses.... there are three.. one larger which is not the problem and two smaller ones. One is clearly visable close to the larger one and the other is behind the canister...just so you change both and we recommend the silicone hose...:thumbup:
Thanks for following up and letting us know...:bowdown:


Getting back to you guys on my problem. Had nothing to do with a valve adjustment like I thought. I pulled the fuel filter off and could barely blow through it. I got one that fit from napa, wasn't the oem one but fit the fuel lines (Napa Gold 3032 fuel filter, less than $5.00), it does not fit in the OEM mounting bracket but there is plenty of room for it to place with the OEM bracket removed (no wire ties needed). Will get the OEM one eventually. The bike runs and starts fine now when hot, its also not popping as much. I have a Hindle on no fuel management controller (i know i need that just never spent the $$$). I pulled one of vacuum hoses off and didn't realize the two were different ID sizes, so only replaced one. They were clearly not an issue, no cracking or failing at all, will replace the smaller one over the winter just to say "both were replaced".. Hope this helps some of you all.
 
I actually did replace a larger hose as well (maybe like a 1/2 ID hose) that comes off the bottom of the air box (left side) to the throttle body (maybe like 8 inches long), didn't look bad but replaced it with new real hose clamps too. I'm not even sure now what hose you mean (near the canister), the two I was mentioning are both right next to each other on the left side of the throttle body, only a few inches long). Do you have pictures possibly ??
 
I had my DPS changed from a recall many years back. About 6 weeks ago I noticed it was cutting out a little on a short ride. I did a battery re-set and all the DPS plugs I could get to I unplugged air hosed them clean (they looked clean already) put it back together, hasn't done it again (I'm knocking on wood right now). It looks like about a $700.00 part I think what I could find on-line. Looked like a little bit of a challenging job to replace but definitely do it myself. Did you change yours or the dealer and how much did it cost ?? What does "buds" mean ??

The unit has to have the computer on it once the unit is replaced. Not only was my DPS bad the position sensor was bad. Total bill including parts and labor was $1895.00. hope it doesn't go out again. It had already been replaced once before under the recall.
David
 
Getting back to you guys on my problem. Had nothing to do with a valve adjustment like I thought. I pulled the fuel filter off and could barely blow through it. I got one that fit from napa, wasn't the oem one but fit the fuel lines (Napa Gold 3032 fuel filter, less than $5.00), it does not fit in the OEM mounting bracket but there is plenty of room for it to place with the OEM bracket removed (no wire ties needed). Will get the OEM one eventually. The bike runs and starts fine now when hot, its also not popping as much. I have a Hindle on no fuel management controller (i know i need that just never spent the $$$). I pulled one of vacuum hoses off and didn't realize the two were different ID sizes, so only replaced one. They were clearly not an issue, no cracking or failing at all, will replace the smaller one over the winter just to say "both were replaced".. Hope this helps some of you all.

Buddy of mine runs the same exhaust for years and no fuel processor. Also check your 2 exhaust gaskets on the y pipe. That will make it pop some when letting off the gas.
David
 
I have replaced those gaskets at least 4 times. I try to keep those clamps tight as my deal has recommended to check and keep them tight. This makes them last much longer, as soon as they have a little possible play in there exhaust gases start to get by then they get start to get sections fail on them. You can start to hear some exhaust noise as well, I have a very keen ear for that over the years. I saw some posts where folks are using a Honda Gasket set and they are less expensive and last longer.
 
I have replaced those gaskets at least 4 times. I try to keep those clamps tight as my deal has recommended to check and keep them tight. This makes them last much longer, as soon as they have a little possible play in there exhaust gases start to get by then they get start to get sections fail on them. You can start to hear some exhaust noise as well, I have a very keen ear for that over the years. I saw some posts where folks are using a Honda Gasket set and they are less expensive and last longer.

I use the Honda gasket on mine.
David
 
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