998cc Spyder neglected abandoned , Found it and i am bring it back to life

[Kilatore]

Hi guys, Bad News today its family day , so no work was done on the bike :gaah:

PW2013STL defitly will do that as it s a good measure to eliminate doubts ,appreciate that.

HAZE thanks you for the video , funny thing is that the tank is already soaked in vinegar since yesterday , the coating part i will check if i can ..scared if gaz will not sp good and and will end up with more issues in the engine .

will post updates tomorrow ,

Stay safe

 

[nightcruiser]

If its running until the fuel runs out hen the pump must be working,, right?

 

[gkamer]

IMO disassembly is the the hard part.

I never had any problem taking things apart. It's the putting back together thing that causes me issues. I never know what do do with the left over parts.......

 

[Peter Aawen]

...... I never know what do do with the left over parts.......

Jeez Greg, you never admit that!! :yikes:

There's actually a simple and obvious solution to 'what to do with the left over parts' - haven't you noticed that every 'good' mechanic has a bin or a box or maybe a shelf of 'might come in handy' bits & odd pieces, parts, & other strange gear'?? And that invariably, that bin/box/shelf is where they go when absobloodylutely nothing else has worked, or when they need an 'odd part' that's impossible to source readily.... and cos that's where all those 'left over bits' and/or any 'after the job spare' bits go, that's where all the spare 'come in handy' or 'lifesaving' bits come from - every time! hyea:

So you just need a bin/box/shelf too; just like all the pro's! :thumbup:


I'm obviously not a 'pro' tho.... :lecturef_smilie: I don't have a bin, a box, or a shelf.... :sour: I've got a whole bleedin' shed full!! :gaah: So of course, I can never find the bit I need - I know it's in there tho, I just can't readily find it!! :shocked: :banghead:

 

[Mikey]

On coating that tank, I have seen personally that coating a tank may not be a good idea! If it don't leak leave it alone would be my choice of directions! My friend had one done once, by some one that should have known what he was doing, painted cars all his life and had all the knloage of paints and what to do with them! After about a year he was having a fuel problem with his bike, come to find out the coating was coming apart and working it's way threw the system! Ended up pealing the coating out and getting the bike straightened out, it was a long summer for him, and getting a new tank the next year. Think hard on coating, if it dont leak leave it alone would be my choice. Un less you could find one in a bone yard some where! Good Luck and GOOD JOB so far, Love that test tank to get her running!!!!:thumbup:opcorn:

 

[Kilatore]

If its running until the fuel runs out hen the pump must be working,, right?

Hey nightcruiser , i replaced the pump with a cheap one for now till i receive the quantum pump , the one that was inside was all rusted,

I never had any problem taking things apart. It's the putting back together thing that causes me issues. I never know what do do with the left over parts.......

i will do my best to have only faulty parts , i will follow the workshop manual , sure you will end up with the 5 extra bolt ( will call this weight reduction hyea: )

On coating that tank, I have seen personally that coating a tank may not be a good idea! If it don't leak leave it alone would be my choice of directions! My friend had one done once, by some one that should have known what he was doing, painted cars all his life and had all the knloage of paints and what to do with them! After about a year he was having a fuel problem with his bike, come to find out the coating was coming apart and working it's way threw the system! Ended up pealing the coating out and getting the bike straightened out, it was a long summer for him, and getting a new tank the next year. Think hard on coating, if it dont leak leave it alone would be my choice. Un less you could find one in a bone yard some where! Good Luck and GOOD JOB so far, Love that test tank to get her running!!!!:thumbup:opcorn:

Yeh that what's i am afraid of , so i gonna leave it as it is after scrubing it , i am just gonna rubber coat the outside at the exception of the small top rear right corner where the ground is bolted on.

 

[Kilatore]

Small update as today most of the shops are closed and could not get any new tubing to change the air hoses so decided to move on with tanks
so after many hours of scrubbing sanding and vinegar all over me (wife not happy with the vinegar smell) i think i am satisfied with the tank:

INSIDE THE TANK RUST OUT(small line of coat went inside will scrub it)


Cotted the tank to prevent any exterieur rust in the future:


Tomorrow hopefully will be hose replacements engine cleaning degreasing and placing the air box back ray:

 

[Kilatore]

Hi all, so god bad new all happened today. :2thumbs:

Replaced all the fuel line and the damaged vacuum lines ,,,placed the tank and air filter allgood so fare started the bike and she started with some misfires then it cleared out ...
went for a small test ride 1st gear around the block (500m ) i felt that their was some hesitation and boggin ( speed around 20 km/h), but i was expecting that ....

After that i decided to go for a longer run :dontknow: and issues started,,,,, the bike wont start (crank) i get the message press M blablabla... i press it and nada wont start pressed firmly on the brake and start nada 2 ... disconnected the battery for 10 min and retired nada 3 .. swapped the relays nada 4...

any info will be appreciated Guys.ray:

Also i have error messagessssss on the Dash for sure, vss defective , brake error ,seat switch defective ,, so is their a way in can am's to clear codes ,i know i should not unless they get fixed properly but i will note them down to go over them later, ( read the while the engine hours are being displayed, push and hold the mode button on the front of the left multifunction switch. push the high beam/low beam/flash high beam switch to the "flash high beam position" rapidly 5 times - record any codes displayed on the cluster.) this did not work for me any alternatives.

and to end up my day i press a bit hard on the brake attempting to start the bike and kaboum the let front Brake Hose failed and started leaking ( thanks god it happened when i was parked and not when driving), but seems that this part is discontinued and can't find a replacement for it should i diy one or is their an alternative.

 

[carbonation]

HAZE thanks you for the video , funny thing is that the tank is already soaked in vinegar since yesterday

Vinegar is very mild.
Citric acid ( I find mine at a health store) is a step up.
Oxalic acid (Wood Bleach is what I use on rusted tanks or fouled up tanks.
Mix up the solution as on the label for bleaching wood, and add a couple hand full of nuts. Shake that thing. The nuts will break the rust and scum off pretty quickly.
Rinse in water, then Isopropyl alcohol to remove any moisture.
Great job so far!

 

[Kilatore]

Happy Monday everyone,
so after going thru all the grounds and spending hell of a time checking all fuses relays cleaning all the pins i decided to start removing the air intake go back where it was starting with no issues .

to my surprise the throtels where no fully closed , and there was something red blocking them , with some tweezers i grabbed them to find its a part of the o ring that comes under the AIR INTAKE holes Part#707800198.

so i check and the oring and the the t part i grabbed with tweezers and still a small portion was missing , check the throtels and they were clear , at that point i knew they went inside the cylinder.

so i have nothing to lose ,, i started the bike and it did start again and running again.
BTW i was able to pull the error once the bike started as per the manual.

so will their be any compromise with the small peace that felt of rubber or will it be vaporised, i know if it was mettel it could mess up all you cylinder.

 

[Kilatore]

Wow going thru the forums and found this post of supersuk"2008 Spyder GS SM5 Restoration" https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?110716-2008-Spyder-GS-SM5-Restoration/page2&highlight=supersuk and i am happy to know that supersuk have done this :2thumbs:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Happy Monday everyone,
so after going thru all the grounds and spending hell of a time checking all fuses relays cleaning all the pins i decided to start removing the air intake go back where it was starting with no issues .

to my surprise the throtels where no fully closed , and there was something red blocking them , with some tweezers i grabbed them to find its a part of the o ring that comes under the AIR INTAKE holes Part#707800198.

so i check and the oring and the the t part i grabbed with tweezers and still a small portion was missing , check the throtels and they were clear , at that point i knew they went inside the cylinder.

so i have nothing to lose ,, i started the bike and it did start again and running again.
BTW i was able to pull the error once the bike started as per the manual.

so will their be any compromise with the small peace that felt of rubber or will it be vaporised, i know if it was mettel it could mess up all you cylinder.

IMHO if it's a small piece of the rubber gasket, I wouldn't do an engine teardown to find it .... since you already got it running, I seriously don't think anything will be found now...... my compliments to you on your efforts so far ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[davev1pa]

I've used a similar method but I prefer the vinegar and BB's. My final creamer liner was white. Many years ago. Kilatore-wow. Your doing a helluva job. Thanks for sharing!!

 

[Kilatore]

Thanks davev1pa , but unfortunately its going to be delayed a bit as i cannot find ant shop in this country that can provide flexible brake lines so i can rebuild the Hydrolic Brakes , i will be changing the 2 front line as the left exploded and now dont trust the one one the right.

i made an order online should be here with in the next 20 days :gaah:

and as diagnoses the bike went into limp mode because of the failing breaks ...

so next i will be removing the front end to prepare the bike for the new lines when hey come (also its a good opportunity to clean the engine bay and harnesses as it disgusting with mud and dust ).

 

[Mikey]

While you had the tank out you did change out the wires, and plugs right!!

 

[Peter Aawen]

Thanks davev1pa , but unfortunately its going to be delayed a bit as i cannot find ant shop in this country that can provide flexible brake lines so i can rebuild the Hydrolic Brakes , i will be changing the 2 front line as the left exploded and now dont trust the one one the right. ..........

Hi Kilatore, I don't ever look for OE or even pre-made brake lines these days, I simply call the local Mobile Hydraulic Hose Service (here in South Oz my local is EnZed Hydraulics) tell them what it's for (brake lines, power steering hoses, hydraulic rams, etc & any other pertinent info I may have on hand) & they drive their fully equipped van to wherever I am on site, check out what I actually need, measure it all up, and then make it on-site to the correct length/fittings out of the correct hose material etc on the spot!! hyea: It's usually cheaper this way, always quicker, and generally better - if not MUCH better quality hose &/or fittings than whatever the OE parts may be!! And before you ask, yes, I've had them make high quality braided flexible stainless brake lines for a number of vehicles now; and they were a helluva lot cheaper to get that way, as well as easier to get EXACTLY what I wanted, instead of having to chase around trying to find part numbers & the right length with the correct fittings etc before waiting for them to be ordered and delivered and then doing it all again/fixing all the stuff-ups that can occur that way! :helpsmilie:

Maybe once or twice they've had to do all their job inspection & measuring first, then take maybe a day or two to order in the correct hose type &/or fittings for the ends due to my 'pretty unique' task (finding the right stuff for 100 year old tractors &/or Independently Manufactured Special Vehicles can sometimes be just a bit problematic?! ) but usually, for most mass produced vehicles, they can check all that before even leaving their warehouse, so that when they get here, it's just a matter of selecting the right stuff, cutting the hose to the correct length, fitting the right ends, pressure testing the new hose (all done in their fully equipped van) and then fitting the new 'custom hydraulic hose' into place! And it's almost always cheaper, especially when you factor in your savings in time & effort!! :thumbup:

So it might pay you to look for a local & reputable 'Hydraulic Hose Manufacturer', even if your locals don't have an 'On-site Mobile service' - altho I can't see this 'Mobile Hydraulic Hose Service' business model being viable here in Australia with its long distances between jobs & far less density in population & jobs, but not being viable over where you are, unless maybe all your local Hydraulic Hose mobs are only interested in doing the Biiiigger Jobs?! But we have those here too, maybe a bit less frequently & generally in the most remote places.... :dontknow: :shocked:

Anyhow, do with it as you will, I thought it may be an idea that might help?! And anything that helps you further the already fantastic job you've done on this difficult project has gotta be good, doesn't it?!

Good Luck! :2thumbs:

 

[Kilatore]

While you had the tank out you did change out the wires, and plugs right!!

Hey Mikey, this is only temp i will have to remove the tank again when the pump comes as i am using cheap pump .

Hi Kilatore, I don't ever look for OE or even pre-made brake lines these days, I simply call the local Mobile Hydraulic Hose Service (here in South Oz my local is EnZed Hydraulics) tell them what it's for (brake lines, power steering hoses, hydraulic rams, etc & any other pertinent info I may have on hand) & they drive their fully equipped van to wherever I am on site, check out what I actually need, measure it all up, and then make it on-site to the correct length/fittings out of the correct hose material etc on the spot!! hyea: It's usually cheaper this way, always quicker, and generally better - if not MUCH better quality hose &/or fittings than whatever the OE parts may be!! And before you ask, yes, I've had them make high quality braided flexible stainless brake lines for a number of vehicles now; and they were a helluva lot cheaper to get that way, as well as easier to get EXACTLY what I wanted, instead of having to chase around trying to find part numbers & the right length with the correct fittings etc before waiting for them to be ordered and delivered and then doing it all again/fixing all the stuff-ups that can occur that way! :helpsmilie:

Maybe once or twice they've had to do all their job inspection & measuring first, then take maybe a day or two to order in the correct hose type &/or fittings for the ends due to my 'pretty unique' task (finding the right stuff for 100 year old tractors &/or Independently Manufactured Special Vehicles can sometimes be just a bit problematic?! ) but usually, for most mass produced vehicles, they can check all that before even leaving their warehouse, so that when they get here, it's just a matter of selecting the right stuff, cutting the hose to the correct length, fitting the right ends, pressure testing the new hose (all done in their fully equipped van) and then fitting the new 'custom hydraulic hose' into place! And it's almost always cheaper, especially when you factor in your savings in time & effort!! :thumbup:

So it might pay you to look for a local & reputable 'Hydraulic Hose Manufacturer', even if your locals don't have an 'On-site Mobile service' - altho I can't see this 'Mobile Hydraulic Hose Service' business model being viable here in Australia with its long distances between jobs & far less density in population & jobs, but not being viable over where you are, unless maybe all your local Hydraulic Hose mobs are only interested in doing the Biiiigger Jobs?! But we have those here too, maybe a bit less frequently & generally in the most remote places.... :dontknow: :shocked:

Anyhow, do with it as you will, I thought it may be an idea that might help?! And anything that helps you further the already fantastic job you've done on this difficult project has gotta be good, doesn't it?!

Good Luck! :2thumbs:

Thanks Peter , i really wish if we had options like these here , i swear that i checked over 50 shops and they had no clue whats the meaning of flexible stainless brake lines ( to be honest i also was not aware that you can build your brake lines) in Gulf Country's culture whats broken gets replaced by a new part ,their are no DIY'S and sometimes getting a new vehicle instated of repairing (example this sypder the guy got a 2020 model and you can say he thru this one)

it only after i started looking for replacements and found that they are not easy to find brand new online that i did a recherche and found that you can easily build them your self.
as for the local Hydraulic Hose shop they only what to deal with Biiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiigger jobs and big machines .

so by the end of the day it not only getting the bike running , i what to get more knowledge of how things can get fixed by yourself for a fraction of what a shop can ask for.


so for the update , not mush only removed the front waiting for part to come.

 

[Kilatore]

befor any one says it , yes it need a goooood deep clean .

 

[Mikey]

No, Iwas going to say, how bad they look with the frunk taken off!!!!:cheers:

 

[Kilatore]

So hello every one, time is going so slow also the shipping process, coivid-19 is not helping these days.

So a friend of mine turned out he works at the can-am dealer here, so he hooked me up for the FL break line fora good prince ( 25 USD)..

So did install them , the bleeding was done but i am 100% it not proper , i am doing it with a vacuum pump and cant get a steady flow i will have to redo it for the 5th time now i am on 2 litter almost of bleeding both front brakes.

got a new battery the first one was done and i read that a bad one can create more problem and error codes.

so here is where i stand now, i did a quick run with the bike ( next time i promise i will take a video ) , and codes came out as below video:

p0600 p099- p0730 u1201 p0706 c1282 c1183

so these ones i am cool with them:
c1183 : seat plug
c1282 p0600 : brake related i need to find a way to properly bleed those lines

These are more of a concern to me
p0706 u1201 p0730

could these be due to the bike siting idel for to long , and i am having a big confusion about the oil, is their a way to flush the trasmission oil is it using the same oil as the engine ( i always knew that oil for transmission is different then the engine oil) but can find a any info.

I will be doing a full oil +filter flush , and i found that their is another filter in the transmission "Oil Filter -420256454" do i have to change this one also??


and to end up this is a small clip of my Daughter starting the :spyder2: (excuse my french)