Won't downshift? Try this "fix" - UPDATE - caused Turn Signal failure!

[EdMat]

Final update on original post

I'm sorry to report that all attempts to diagnose and remedy the LH multi-function switch issue of not downshifting manually, have failed (fixing the shifting issue just transferred the problem to the turn signals) and I ordered a new Multi-function switch assembly yesterday from a local dealer (PN 710008090) at a cost of $509.99 plus tax). I will install it myself, and already have the failed switch removed.
I don't fault the local dealer for BRP's failure to address and stand behind a known fault of this multi-function switch cluster.... BMW does the same thing. The local dealer's hands are tied, leaving me to fight the battle. So, right now, I'm finalizing plans on a 3,000 mile trip beginning July 4.....to the 3-wheel rally in Deadwood; Cody WY; Chief Joseph Highway/Beartooth Pass to Red Lodge MT; down to Yellowstone; and then heading back home.

BamaJohn, I think I discovered where you went wrong. The pic shows you putting the BB on the turn signal side of the switch. This pad is double sided. One side does the turn signals and the other does the shifting. You need to put the BB on the shifter side of the switch. Careful when you take the shift mechanism apart to change out the ball for the BB as there is a spring loaded detent ball that will come flying out. Fixed one today that way. I hope it holds up. Will try and do a better description later.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I wonder if a straight up 4mm ball would fit and work? Amazon has this
https://a.co/d/0qHnlb1

That LINK includes quite a few different sizes if the 4mm isn't correct ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Isopedella]

That LINK includes quite a few different sizes if the 4mm isn't correct ..... Mike :thumbup:

So whats the correct size range?

 

[BamaJohn]

Seems like EXTREME alternative would be remove the SE actuator & go manual some how.:dontknow: How down shift without clutch handle, am curios if actually feasible. (**underrating is: all are Manual tranny with shift solenoid & programming added for SE**)

It is possible to shift up/down with my fingers pushing the little micro-switch plate inside the LH multi-switch. Removing the shift paddle assembly gains access to the micro-switch plate. (I was at a stage of knowing that replacement of the whole LH switch was imminent, and tried switching with my fingers on the micro-switch plate, just to see if it was in the switch or the paddle shifter assembly.)

 

[BamaJohn]

How did you get the instrument console lifted to get to the wiring to replace the lh module??

....by removing side mirrors; the black plastic "surround" behind the mirrors; the entire windshield apparatus; if I remember correctly, the next step is to remove 2 small black screws at the arms that raise the windshield & lift off the dash cover. Then remove both headlights...... it is quite a detailed job to do because the LH Multi-switch plugs in on the RH side of the Spyder... I'm sure there's a good reason for that.

 

[BamaJohn]

BamaJohn, I think I discovered where you went wrong. The pic shows you putting the BB on the turn signal side of the switch. This pad is double sided. One side does the turn signals and the other does the shifting. You need to put the BB on the shifter side of the switch. Careful when you take the shift mechanism apart to change out the ball for the BB as there is a spring loaded detent ball that will come flying out. Fixed one today that way. I hope it holds up. Will try and do a better description later.

Thanks EdMat. My photos might not be adequate, but I did put the BB on the shift side of the switch pad, but it stuck in the housing....wish I had you here back when this began

 

[BamaJohn]

So whats the correct size range?

I measured the OEM ball bearings at 3.96mm

 

[F32018]

BamaJohn, I think I discovered where you went wrong. The pic shows you putting the BB on the turn signal side of the switch. This pad is double sided. One side does the turn signals and the other does the shifting. You need to put the BB on the shifter side of the switch. Careful when you take the shift mechanism apart to change out the ball for the BB as there is a spring loaded detent ball that will come flying out. Fixed one today that way. I hope it holds up. Will try and do a better description later.

Sir, could you elaborate more on taking the shifter apart to place the BB on the correct side? I understand what you mean by the "double sided" switch, but I want to know more about taking the Shifter apart before attempting that. Is the spring-loaded ball easily put back in place? Did you replace both original balls? Thanks everyone for the posts all very informative. Could you perhaps add some pictures? Can-Am should take more responsibility for this obviously troubled part.

 

[BamaJohn]

Sir, could you elaborate more on taking the shifter apart to place the BB on the correct side? I understand what you mean by the "double sided" switch, but I want to know more about taking the Shifter apart before attempting that. Is the spring-loaded ball easily put back in place? Did you replace both original balls? Thanks everyone for the posts all very informative. Could you perhaps add some pictures? Can-Am should take more responsibility for this obviously troubled part.

"EdMat" might have more info for you, but here's my update: After the original posting I wound up having to replace the whole switch assembly with new. The oem ball bearings in the switch assembly are smaller than a BB, so the BB would only work one side then sticking in place, disabling the other side of the assembly to work (I made it shift but lost turn signals, for example). Sorry I don't have better news.....

 

[F32018]

"EdMat" might have more info for you, but here's my update: After the original posting I wound up having to replace the whole switch assembly with new. The oem ball bearings in the switch assembly are smaller than a BB, so the BB would only work one side then sticking in place, disabling the other side of the assembly to work (I made it shift but lost turn signals, for example). Sorry I don't have better news.....

BamaJohn... thank you for the fast reply. Yes, I saw that earlier. I'm still thinking of a way to repair the switch. I'm thinking of a shim between the ball and the button it needs to push. Seems like a $450 switch assembly is hard to swallow. Also worried that it may just happen again. This happened with only 990 miles on my F3. Thanks again. Maybe
Edmat can share some more thoughts? Thanks again.

 

[woods]

What about lead shot? Available in many size's well below BB.

 

[Knizar]

What about lead shot? Available in many size's well below BB.

Lead Shot - Bad Idea! You'll have more trouble than you Had!

 

[EdMat]

Sir, could you elaborate more on taking the shifter apart to place the BB on the correct side? I understand what you mean by the "double sided" switch, but I want to know more about taking the Shifter apart before attempting that. Is the spring-loaded ball easily put back in place? Did you replace both original balls? Thanks everyone for the posts all very informative. Could you perhaps add some pictures? Can-Am should take more responsibility for this obviously troubled part.

Sadly the BB worked for a while, like every other thing I have tried. We are at the point now of replacing the whole left hand assembly. At the last failure what I found was, pressing on the switch membrane would no longer cause any function at all. It makes me think that one of the contacts is disintegrating. I won't know for sure until the assembly is replaced and i can tear the membrane apart.

My thought now is that everything I have done to this point has been an illusion and the only thing that made a difference was every time we did something we caused a slight movement during reassembly allowing non deteriorated parts of the contacts to make contact.

Not sure when he is going to spend the bucks for a new assembly.

 

[F32018]

Sadly the BB worked for a while, like every other thing I have tried. We are at the point now of replacing the whole left hand assembly. At the last failure what I found was, pressing on the switch membrane would no longer cause any function at all. It makes me think that one of the contacts is disintegrating. I won't know for sure until the assembly is replaced and i can tear the membrane apart.

My thought now is that everything I have done to this point has been an illusion and the only thing that made a difference was every time we did something we caused a slight movement during reassembly allowing non deteriorated parts of the contacts to make contact.

Not sure when he is going to spend the bucks for a new assembly.

So the BB on the paddle side only worked for a while? I'm thinking about a small metal cap over the stud on the membrane. About 0.02 inches in thickness. If you ever saw a primer for a shell or a percussion cap for muzzleloader, think that type of cap. Pics show placement. As soon as it stops the torrential rain here in VA, I'll get outside to try something. Any thoughts on this idea? I concur with the lead bb being too soft and that it may cause other issues if it flakes inside the switch assembly. It needs to be a hard metal.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

My thought now is that everything I have done to this point has been an illusion and the only thing that made a difference was every time we did something we caused a slight movement during reassembly allowing non deteriorated parts of the contacts to make contact.

I believe you have it correct. I had the same problem with my start switch.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...g-up-Update!&p=1641755&viewfull=1#post1641755

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...y-2014-RT-saved-me-500&highlight=start+button

Finally ended up tapping into the appropriate wires outside of the RH switch assembly and connecting them to a push button which I installed where the OEM start button was located.

 

[Gaga]

Left Hand Multifunction Switch Assembly, 710008090 working for an F3-T 2019?

 

[Snoking1127]

This failing shifting issue creates a major safety issue. People in the US should take the time to fill out a complaint on www.safercar.gov . Maybe we can get an extended warranty going for the issue.

 

[Gaga]

The flat wire is broken inside