Wiring to key on only

[cmar157]

I have searched but can't seem to find this anywhere. I want to install a monitor with a camera in the rear but only want the monitor to power on when the key is in the on position. Do I need to find a lead that is already existing and if so any suggestions. Or do I need to run back to the fuse block and tie in there. I don't want to overload an existing circuit. Any suggestions would be welcomed.

 

[NancysToy]

Best way would be to add an auxiliary fuse block that is relay switched to be on with the ignition. Something like the Eastern Beaver 3CS would work well if you don't need many auxiliary feeds or any non-switched feeds. I recommend the CANbus diode option as well, just to be safe. The light for the passenger heated grips makes a good switched wire to trigger the relay if locating at the rear of the Spyder.

 

[finless]

I just installed a alarm system on my Sypder. There is a connector set right next to the battery. On that are a couple of switched wires. I needed it as a sense line to the alarm so the alarm knows when the key is on. As I recall it was yellow and red or maybe grey and red. The running lights are also in this connector which is switched. Sorry I did not take notes this time around. But they are easily found. Use a needle to poke into the wire and use a volt meter to detect a switched wire.

Now the problem you may have is current. For my use, no current is really used from this line as the alarm uses this only as a sense line. Your camera may draw more current than the fuse behind it can handle. So test and be prepared to replace a fuse if you draw too much.

FYI another good spot is to tap of the power lines from the iPod integration port. They are easy to tap into and might supply the current you need.

Bob

 

[Barlock]

Have you tried talking to ....

I have searched but can't seem to find this anywhere. I want to install a monitor with a camera in the rear but only want the monitor to power on when the key is in the on position. Do I need to find a lead that is already existing and if so any suggestions. Or do I need to run back to the fuse block and tie in there. I don't want to overload an existing circuit. Any suggestions would be welcomed.

.... CyncySpyder?

 

[matcomike]

If you use any of the switched wires near the battery, use a relay and a separate, fused power source to supply your add-on. Also, don't be fooled by the timer on some of these wires. They may stay on for a while after the key is switched off. This is normal.

On a side note- Do NOT poke a wire to check for power!! You can carefully back probe the nearest connector, or pull apart the connector if there is one nearby.
If a wire is poked, there is a chance of damaging some strands inside the wire. The wiring is already somewhat stressed for size and draw, don't make it worse. If you absolutely must poke a wire, use the thinnest needle possible, and be careful. After completing your testing, you must seal the hole back up, or corrosion may result. Use Brite Star liquid electrical tape for this purpose.

Sent from my AT100 using Tapatalk 4

 

[lwrydr]

Wiring

I just had that problem sort-of. The plugin in the trunk is only on when there is a fuse in #6 or the right
hand fuse block. So if u use the pluging for the power that is an easy fix. I wanted it the other way so I
pulled the fuse and moved it to #7 and the plugin is always active for my little charger.

 

[billybovine]

I just had that problem sort-of. The plugin in the trunk is only on when there is a fuse in #6 or the right
hand fuse block. So if u use the pluging for the power that is an easy fix. I wanted it the other way so I
pulled the fuse and moved it to #7 and the plugin is always active for my little charger.

The 2013's are different than all prior years and they are unable to choose if the accessory plug is switched or not. Since the OP's RT is a 2012 he does not have that option.