Winter Storage

[LASpyder]

I plan to empty all of the gas in the RT and remove the battery. Is there anything else I should do to winterize it?

Oh yes, I'll keep the battery hooked up to a battery tender. Will it damage the battery if I leave it hooked up all winter?

I don't plan to ride the bike until next spring.

 

[mooneych]

I plan to empty all of the gas in the RT and remove the battery. Is there anything else I should do to winterize it?

Oh yes, I'll keep the battery hooked up to a battery tender. Will it damage the battery if I leave it hooked up all winter?

I don't plan to ride the bike until next spring.

Wow, winterize a Spyder...

Can I stop by and ride it 1x/week? I can drop off mine and take yours to work.:clap:

 

[SpyderSteve]

I plan to empty all of the gas in the RT and remove the battery. Is there anything else I should do to winterize it?

Oh yes, I'll keep the battery hooked up to a battery tender. Will it damage the battery if I leave it hooked up all winter?

I don't plan to ride the bike until next spring.

BRP recommends you have your authorized Can-Am roadster dealer fully prepare your vehicle for storage. Or, at your convenience, you can follow the basic procedures below:
1. Inspect vehicle and have your authorized Can-Am roadster dealer repair any problems if necessary.
2. Change the engine oil and filter. Go to an authorized Can-Am roadster dealer if necessary.
3. Check engine coolant, brake fluid and clutch fluid levels. If low, fill to their recommended levels.
4. Fill the fuel reservoir, add fuel stabilizer and run the engine to prevent the reservoir from rusting and the fuel from deteriorating. Strictly follow instructions on fuel stabilizer container.
5. Inflate all tires to their recommended pressure.
6. Clean the vehicle.
7. Lubricate all controls cables, pivoting points of all levers and lubrication points of front suspensions.
8. Cover the vehicle with a permeable material (e.g., tarpaulin). Avoid using plastic or similar non-breathing, coated materials that restrict air flow and allow heat and moisture to accumulate.
9. Store the vehicle in a dry area, away from sunlight, with a small amount of daily temperature variation.
10. Slow charge the battery once a month at the recommended charging rate of 2 A. It is not necessary to remove the battery.

 

[boborgera]

BRP recommends you have your authorized Can-Am roadster dealer fully prepare your vehicle for storage. Or, at your convenience, you can follow the basic procedures below:
1. Inspect vehicle and have your authorized Can-Am roadster dealer repair any problems if necessary.
2. Change the engine oil and filter. Go to an authorized Can-Am roadster dealer if necessary.
3. Check engine coolant, brake fluid and clutch fluid levels. If low, fill to their recommended levels.
4. Fill the fuel reservoir, add fuel stabilizer and run the engine to prevent the reservoir from rusting and the fuel from deteriorating. Strictly follow instructions on fuel stabilizer container.
5. Inflate all tires to their recommended pressure.
6. Clean the vehicle.
7. Lubricate all controls cables, pivoting points of all levers and lubrication points of front suspensions.
8. Cover the vehicle with a permeable material (e.g., tarpaulin). Avoid using plastic or similar non-breathing, coated materials that restrict air flow and allow heat and moisture to accumulate.
9. Store the vehicle in a dry area, away from sunlight, with a small amount of daily temperature variation.
10. Slow charge the battery once a month at the recommended charging rate of 2 A. It is not necessary to remove the battery.

OR, Lend it to someone to ride it through the Winter, so you don't have
to do all that.:roflblack:

 

[NancysToy]

I recommend against both. Add fuel stabilizer (Stabil or Sea-Foam), top off the tank to prevent condensation, run the Spyder to get the stabilized fuel into the pump and lines, and put the Spyder on the battery tender with the battery in place. Nancy's has done two winters that way, and my RTS did one. My BMWs have done a decade without difficulty...in an unheated garage. I do remove the lead-acid batteries that are not sealed, but the remainder remain installed, and go on the battery tenders until Spring (or a nice day). It won't hurt to do as you plan, except maybe leave some old gas behind in the lines, but it is a tremendous amount of trouble, and creates the potential for leaks or connection problems next season.

 

[Bob Denman]

I plan to add Stabil, check all of the fluid levels, and do the old "Start it twice a month and warm it up" routine...:2thumbs:

 

[clueless]

I plan to add Stabil, check all of the fluid levels, and do the old "Start it twice a month and warm it up" routine...:2thumbs:

actually we just had a speaker at my riders club meeting and they recommend you DON'T start it over the winter. keep it warm and dry and battery on tender... starting it does more wear and tear on the battery and you dont run it enough to clear the moisture and you end up just adding acid breakdown to the oil that sits in the bike all winter...

full tank of gas with stablizer to keep any rust in the tank away...

 

[NancysToy]

I plan to add Stabil, check all of the fluid levels, and do the old "Start it twice a month and warm it up" routine...:2thumbs:

actually we just had a speaker at my riders club meeting and they recommend you DON'T start it over the winter. keep it warm and dry and battery on tender... starting it does more wear and tear on the battery and you dont run it enough to clear the moisture and you end up just adding acid breakdown to the oil that sits in the bike all winter...

full tank of gas with stablizer to keep any rust in the tank away...

:agree: Unless you are going to ride the machine long enough to reach full operating temperature, not just warming the coolant, it does more harm than good. It also has to be ridden, to distribute oil onto the gears and clutch parts. Finally, the gas tank has to be topped off to keep it full to help prevent condensation. If you ride it far enough to add much more gas, you will need more fuel stabilizer.

Winterize it, put it on the tender, then let it sit until Spring, unless you ride during the winter. JMHO

 

[namknight]

I just plan to change oil/filter, Add stabilizer ( even though I am not sure that is warranted since the machine is in my basement which has fairly stable temps. and I have never put it in any of my machines).
But that won't be until it snows and they put salt down.

 

[clueless]

I just plan to change oil/filter, Add stabilizer ( even though I am not sure that is warranted since the machine is in my basement which has fairly stable temps. and I have never put it in any of my machines).
But that won't be until it snows and they put salt down.

its not the temp reason for fuel stablizer. it is the gas breaks down to varnish and I think water partially just from age... i always use fuel stable. it is cheap from Wal-mart or most places....

 

[Bob Denman]

I guess now I'm going to have to add a Battery Tender Jr to my Christmas Wish list... :2thumbs:

 

[Bob Denman]

Question... Can you hook the Battery Tender up to those "jumper terminals" that are accessible just under the seat, or do you need to hook directly to the Battery itself?

 

[clueless]

right now I use the screw on top and the terminal covered by the RED cap. ... but over winter will install a perm pigtail as its easier to make sure I dont short the clips when taking off ect...

just nice to plug and unplug and go..

I leave my on charger when ever its in the garage. as long as you have a smart charger that just trickle charges. the one i have also every month or so does a battery test automatically...

from Yuasa the larger charging unit. comes with the pigtail cord

 

[boborgera]

Question... Can you hook the Battery Tender up to those "jumper terminals" that are accessible just under the seat, or do you need to hook directly to the Battery itself?

Yes you can, some people like to tap into the battery with a plug.
I just use the jumper terminals from time to time, But also i don't put my bikes away for the Winter i use them almost every day. So i don't need
to keep them on a charger for long periods.

 

[NancysToy]

Question... Can you hook the Battery Tender up to those "jumper terminals" that are accessible just under the seat, or do you need to hook directly to the Battery itself?

You certainly can do so if you use alligator clips. You should not attach a pigtail there, however. The ground connection there is held by a nut and bolt. If you loosen the bolt, the nut will start to spin. You will need to remove the body panels (and hold your mouth just right) to remedy the situation. If you want a pigtail, remove the body panels and attach directly to the battery. Better yet, just buy a cigarette adapter for your battery charger and plug into the power outlet in the rear trunk.

 

[smokster]

winter storage... it's 95 degrees:2thumbs:

 

[Bob Denman]

...lucky bugger! :clap:

 

[Bob Denman]

Just another stupid question...
Which body panels have to come off to dig down to the battery on the RT models? I've got a Tender Jr here now and would like to rig up the permanent connection.

 

[NancysToy]

Just another stupid question...
Which body panels have to come off to dig down to the battery on the RT models? I've got a Tender Jr here now and would like to rig up the permanent connection.

Left mirror, left deflector, left access panel, left middle side panel (oil check panel, left upper middle panel, left rear side panel, battery access panel. There may be a way to bend the panels enough to remove the battery access panel without doing this, but I wouldn't want to risk it. BTW, you will also have to unfasten the seat gas shock or use a small ratchet or plain torx wrench to access the rear battery panel screw. You can buy an adapter from the battery tender (SAE) to a cigarette socket, and just plug into the trunk outlet.

 

[Bob Denman]

Thanks Scotty! You're the best! :clap::clap: