SpydermanCT
Member
A few weeks ago when starting my 2010 RT (45K on it) I noticed multiple warning lights were on on my dash. I also noticed that the center information screen rebooted multiple times. I took it out for a quick blast and everything seemed to be ok at first. It ran normal, shifted fine yet the warning lights were on and the dash continued to reboot.
I always have a battery tender on the Spyder and so far this year it was starting normally with no issues. I looked back in my records and noticed that the battery was 6 years old. A ha, I know what’s wrong with it. Low voltage from an aged battery. I purchased a new Yuasa YTX24HL-BS battery, fully charged it and installed it but still the problem persisted. I did a deeper dive here on SpyderLovers and on the internet into any potential causes of my cluster issues like relays, fuses, wiring and grounds but no resolution. I did find a post of someone who had very similar issue which ended up being a faulty cluster. More specifically, bad solder joints on the circuit board and or a power supply that was acting up. Performing this type of work is above my technical expertise so I checked out the cost of a new one. No longer produced. I found a new one on eBay that was $1400.00 which is MSRP from Can Am.
Long story short, I stumbled across Atlanta Speedometer in Sugar Hill, GA that repair instrument clusters. I spoke to Josh Ingle there and he said that the symptoms I was describing were likely caused by a bad cluster. I removed mine, shipped it to him and had it back repaired in less than a week. All of my problems are now resolved for less than a quarter of the price of a new one.
I hope this information might help someone in the future if they experience symptoms similar to mine.
Greg
I always have a battery tender on the Spyder and so far this year it was starting normally with no issues. I looked back in my records and noticed that the battery was 6 years old. A ha, I know what’s wrong with it. Low voltage from an aged battery. I purchased a new Yuasa YTX24HL-BS battery, fully charged it and installed it but still the problem persisted. I did a deeper dive here on SpyderLovers and on the internet into any potential causes of my cluster issues like relays, fuses, wiring and grounds but no resolution. I did find a post of someone who had very similar issue which ended up being a faulty cluster. More specifically, bad solder joints on the circuit board and or a power supply that was acting up. Performing this type of work is above my technical expertise so I checked out the cost of a new one. No longer produced. I found a new one on eBay that was $1400.00 which is MSRP from Can Am.
Long story short, I stumbled across Atlanta Speedometer in Sugar Hill, GA that repair instrument clusters. I spoke to Josh Ingle there and he said that the symptoms I was describing were likely caused by a bad cluster. I removed mine, shipped it to him and had it back repaired in less than a week. All of my problems are now resolved for less than a quarter of the price of a new one.
I hope this information might help someone in the future if they experience symptoms similar to mine.
Greg