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What's with the Multiple warning lights after belt alignment?

McRuss

New member
No, I didn't search for this, too many 'moving parts!'
I did a simple 1/4 or so turn on the right adjuster and now I have the following 'faults:'

Check engine light
ABS light
parking brake will not work with engine running/light will not go off
(brake works ok with engine off but light stays on)

I didn't touch any thing that I can think of to cause all these errors. I'm sure there is a sequence to clear the check engine light but what about the abs and parking brake?
 
Did you run the bike in gear on a lift to rotate/spin the tire? If so, the codes should clear after a short ride.
 
I got codes after I did pulley and belt alignment and tension maintenance.
I ran it in neutral with the ass in the air and the front wheels chocked.

I drove it down the drive and back. The codes cleared.

The brain, quite rightly says hey, somethings wrong. But cleared after the short ride and putting the brake on an off.
 
To avoid the bells and whistles. Remove the rear wheel sensor(s) (some have 2). Then your VSS won't go nuts thinking you are crashing with the rear wheel turning and the fronts stationary.
 
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Ha! Backed it out of the garage and pulled it back in and all is back to normal. I think I know what I did to upset the Nanny.....never mind.

One additional question though: Is there any way to adjust the alignment of the belt on the FRONT sprocket short of adjusting the rear? The rear looks just about spec but the front is pretty close to the flange but not touching. The front does not look like the picture in the O'sM.
 
To avoid the bells and whistles. Remove the rear wheel sensor(s) (some have 2). Then your VSS won't go nuts thinking you are crashing with the rear wheel turning and the fronts stationary.

Yep, I figured that was what upset the Nanny! I just backed it out of the garage and drove it back in and all is well.
 
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Ha! Backed it out of the garage and pulled it back in and all is back to normal. I think I know what I did to upset the Nanny.....never mind.

One additional question though: Is there any way to adjust the alignment of the belt on the FRONT sprocket short of adjusting the rear? The rear looks just about spec but the front is pretty close to the flange but not touching. The front does not look like the picture in the O'sM.

Adjusting the FRONT sprocket would involve MOVING the ENGINE, which I doubt is even possible. When / if you adjust the REAR Sprocket it will VERY, VERY slightly effect the belt on the FRONT pulley...... Mike :thumbup:
 
Adjusting the FRONT sprocket would involve MOVING the ENGINE, which I doubt is even possible. When / if you adjust the REAR Sprocket it will VERY, VERY slightly effect the belt on the FRONT pulley...... Mike :thumbup:

The engine rides on rubber bushings. This reduces vibration but also allows movement which affects belt alignment. Polyurethane bushings would be an improvement here. But changing these out would be a huge endeavor. Not worth the effort. It would be nice if the factory installed them though.
 
Adjusting the FRONT sprocket would involve MOVING the ENGINE, which I doubt is even possible. When / if you adjust the REAR Sprocket it will VERY, VERY slightly effect the belt on the FRONT pulley...... Mike :thumbup:

There is an adjustable link on the engine to align it, but the 2014 service manual seems to be missing most of the steps about how to do the engine alignment.
 
Adjusting the FRONT sprocket would involve MOVING the ENGINE, which I doubt is even possible. When / if you adjust the REAR Sprocket it will VERY, VERY slightly effect the belt on the FRONT pulley...... Mike :thumbup:

So to get the belt further away from the flange ("WARNING DO NOT LET THE BELT TOUCH THE FLANGE" (front pulley)), just keep moving the rear gap until the front responds (very, very slightly) in a satisfactory manner.....I can do that.
 
Seems to me that as long as there is some gap on the front thats ok. I would attempt it manually. Ass in the air as before. Yadi yadi ya. Rotate the wheel and slowly guide the belt on the front pulley by pulling out when rotating. But as long as its not grinding the flange and a gap I reckon thats ok. Then set up the rear again.
 
So to get the belt further away from the flange ("WARNING DO NOT LET THE BELT TOUCH THE FLANGE" (front pulley)), just keep moving the rear gap until the front responds (very, very slightly) in a satisfactory manner.....I can do that.

Don't get too worked up about the alignment. BRP essentially states that as long as it tracks between the outside edge and flange of the rear pulley you're good to go. The belt wanders back and forth on the rear pulley so there is no way to know for certain that after aligning it, it will continue to track the same as when you set it. Someone here actually took a video of their belt showing how much it wanders while ryding. I don't think you could ever set the alignment so the belt always stays away from the flange of the front pulley.
 
Don't get too worked up about the alignment. BRP essentially states that as long as it tracks between the outside edge and flange of the rear pulley you're good to go. The belt wanders back and forth on the rear pulley so there is no way to know for certain that after aligning it, it will continue to track the same as when you set it. Someone here actually took a video of their belt showing how much it wanders while ryding. I don't think you could ever set the alignment so the belt always stays away from the flange of the front pulley.

:agree: ........I've seen that video and have posted as much numerous times on the forum ...... Mike :thumbup:
 
I'm not getting "worked up" but after a 200 mile ride, the belt is showing signs of 'shininess' where it is rubbing on the flange. I did the process all over again today and after moving the belt to the outside of the rear sprocket, and tightening the axle with the tire on the ground, I rode it down the block and back. The belt is now in the middle of the sprocket (and it may very well 'wander' on the sprocket) but the front has 0 space between belt and outside flange. Not even a .0015 feeler gauge will go. I give up. I just hope that the belt will last the 3000 miles plus or minus to get me to Hyder, AK and back. I'm seriously considering taking a spare belt along even though I won't have the tools (166# torque wrench among others) to do a roadside repair.
 
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