• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

What did you do to your Spyder today?

Little different story here in sunny Nevada...

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Broke the auger gear box on one of my snowblowers - thank goodness I have 2. The part alone is $250. Local shop want close to $650 for parts and labor. I'll just spin some wrenches. Snow/rain mix now - also called "heart attack snow". Really heavy.
BTW: I tried my :spyder2: in about 3-4 inches of snow - NO worky.
 
Measurements indicate that my F3L has toe out. So I attempted to give it some toe in so she won't be such a handful until I can get a laser alignment. The outside tie rod jam nuts are very accessible, but the insides are another story. The space they are in is very tight and no metric or SAE wrench (spanner) would fit the nuts, I resorted to a Crescent wrench and I still could not loosen them.
+ Are the inside tie rod threads right or left hand threads?
+ What size is that nut?
+ Anyone do this DYI on their F3? How did you access the inside jam nuts?
 
You need a crowsfoot spanner - 18mm

You can make one, or buy a set.

The inside nut turns in the same direction as its corresponding outside nut, eg. working on say, the left side, undo the outside left nut and note which direction it went (right side is different), then move the inside left nut in the same direction.

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Thanks Merlot. I assumed the inside threads would be the opposite of the outside ones, otherwise turning the tie rod would have no effect. You were much more helpful than the shop manual.
18mm, eh? Not many sets are sold here with that size, they jump from 17 to 19mm. The search is on for a 18mm crow foot.
 
The crows foot is also a bit fiddly to use, what with the extensions needed (most come in 3/8 inch and I don't have a lot of 3/8 extensions).

A better solution is to make one:

  1. cut down a long 1/2 extension bar to 17inches or 433mm long;
  2. cut the open end head off of combination spanner 18mm;
  3. then weld the open end head onto the extension bar at right angles.

Makes a much better tool as its all in one piece

I then place a dot on top of the tie rods, so I know how much I turned it (any more than 1/2 turn on one side only will affect the steering position). It's easy to get it wrong, so it's advisable to get a "proper" wheel alignment ASAP...or make your own kit and DIY.

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That is great information Merlot....thanks again.
All I want is to get some toe in until I can get her to a shop that does the laser alignment. She's a handful with toe out.
 
I washed the road grime off from trailing it to Apache Junction, AZ. now ready for our ride today. High is going to be 67 and sunny.

F3 washed.jpg
 
Kind of a slow time of year for a lot of us....waiting out "Old Man Winter"...getting some new front tires mounted today and will put em on the RT later today. Unfortunately the roads around here are still full of salt, so I won't be taking a test ride any time soon...Went with a pair of Vredestein Quatrac 5's......We'll see....:chat:
 
I finally had a decent dry day. Hit 34F here. Perfect for me. So drove it to work and drove around for a bit at lunch.
Taking it to the dealer tomorrow to have them put 3 new Kenda Canine tires on and do a laser adjustment as well. Then sunday drive half the day before the Football game comes on. And then monday, (last good day for awhile)I intend to run 200 miles or so just cruising around.
 
We went for a 100mi. ride with my son on his 2014 Triumph Trophy and my step-son on his 2007 Yamaha Virago 250. My first ride with the new exhaust system and it sounds freaking awesome. I love the deceleration rumble, and it accelerates quicker (at least it sounds quicker :yes:}. With the weather now turning to crap I'm contemplating getting the ECU flashed.
 
My 10 yo great grandson and I installed an RLS cat delete. I had Rowan do most of it, teaching him how to use tools. He's a quick learner and loves spinning spanners.
Of course, we had to take 'er out to hear the result. A more throaty sound and just a wee bit louder. Nice! Just what I wanted and why I went with an RLS delete.

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My 10 yo great grandson and I installed an RLS cat delete. I had Rowan do most of it, teaching him how to use tools. He's a quick learner and loves spinning spanners.
Of course, we had to take 'er out to hear the result. A more throaty sound and just a wee bit louder. Nice! Just what I wanted and why I went with an RLS delete.
View attachment 178569View attachment 178570

That's what my step-son and I just put on my 2015. with the stock muffler it was still quiet and as you said more throaty, but with the China-Akropovic muffler it sounds awesome and my wife didn't mind the sound.
 
Finally got around to putting the Baja Ron sway bar on my '17 RTL. Bout time Iv had it laying around for a year on the shelf. Now I'l see how it makes my Spyder handle in the curves.
Put a Show Chrome chrome trunk rack on wife F3L. Both very easy projects. More things to put on another day.
 
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