Using ramps for oil changes

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Where do you lift at the back?

I place a 6 inch wide piece of 2 X 4 on my Harbor freight floor jack under the rear shock …. the wood is wider than the metal pieces that the rear shock bolt goes thru to hold the shock ….. this allows the bolt to be removed so the shock can be detached from the frame ….. Mike hyea:

 

[wmh9680]

I use my old craftsman mc lift. I like that better than ramps and it lets me get under good to check every thing else out while I'm there. I have to use the lift anyway to put her away in front of my wife's car at a 90 degree angle.

 

[Valkrocket]

"One day I will tell the story of how I first tried to back up onto 3 ramps (the 3rd one behind the rear wheel).....but the outcome still makes me cringe"
Been there, Done that! The military could use these as weapons. :gaah: Fire one!

 

[UtahPete]

Driving up the ramps in reverse can be a little hairy. If you go too far it will be a disaster. I raise mine with a lift, then put three ramps under the tires, then lower the bike down and remove the lift. When I'm done I can just drive forward, off the ramps. Just make sure those ramps face backwards. Much safer way to do it.

:agree: that's what I do.

 

[JayBros]

I place a 6 inch wide piece of 2 X 4 on my Harbor freight floor jack under the rear shock …. the wood is wider than the metal pieces that the rear shock bolt goes thru to hold the shock ….. this allows the bolt to be removed so the shock can be detached from the frame ….. Mike hyea:

+1 and MOST IMPORTANT! If one attempts to lift the rear of the frame by placing the jack on the lower shock eye it will bend the bolt and one will have a difficult time getting the bolt out.

 

[Eckhard]

It is curious that the bolt will bend when the shock eye is lifted but doesn't bend when the shock eye presses down on the bolt.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

It is curious that the bolt will bend when the shock eye is lifted but doesn't bend when the shock eye presses down on the bolt.

I'm pretty sure there is a difference between lifting the weight of the rear and what the amount of pressure is applied to the bolt. ….. Mike hyea:

 

[PinkRosePetal]

If the ramps face forward, you would not be able to drive down the ramps. The rear wheel ramp will hit the bottom of the frame.

Aha, I see, this is only when you mechanically lift the bike and place three ramps. I thought there might be some obscure reason for reversing up the front ramps. Thanks for the clarification. :thumbup:

 

[PinkRosePetal]

+1 and MOST IMPORTANT! If one attempts to lift the rear of the frame by placing the jack on the lower shock eye it will bend the bolt and one will have a difficult time getting the bolt out.

How can this possibly be the case, the mechanical advantage the rear wheel has over the shock is greater than the bike's rear weight, isn't it?

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

How can this possibly be the case, the mechanical advantage the rear wheel has over the shock is greater than the bike's rear weight, isn't it?

If the jack is on the shock " eye " … the BOLT that goes thru that " EYE " is also lifted …. and puts a lot of pressure ie. Force upon the two side brackets that contain the shock " eye " ….. you might be able to get the bolt to pass thru using B F H , but you won't ever get the bolt to pass back thru ….UNLESS you move the jack to some other location on the rear frame …. by using the method I described above in another post - you jack it up once and done …… but I do realize you have done the impossible ( the DESS module - removed with the Frunk still on ) ….. Mike hyea:

 

[PMK]

Seriously? Guys this is not rocket science about the bolt.

The rear shock installed has a spring on it. That spring supports the weight of the vehicles aft end and riders. Yes there might be a supplemental spring via the air bag.

In simple terms the spring supports the vehicle. Therefore the load into the bolt in a static non moving load is the least it can be with wheels on ground and vehicle weight on wheels.

Positioning a jack, under the shock eyelet and lifting the rear wheel, the load induced on the bolt is the droop weight of the rear suspension and tire / wheel / brakes. Regarding the bolt, that weight, including leverage, is far less than the weight of the Spyder with no air bag support.

The jack applies lifting force into the shock eyelet, this lifting force is applied into the spring. The spring transfer the force into the frame at the upper shock mount on the chassis.

You are far more likely to bend the bolt and the support tube by overloading the Spyder and bottoming out the suspension, or continuing to ride / bottom out from insufficient support from the air spring bladder.

To the original person posting, as you have read, many owners will use ramps in a safe manner to elevate the machine in the front to accomplish an oil change. Myself, on our Spyder, ramps are not viable since the trailer hitch mudflap would scrape badly. My method for oil change is either use the low height drain pan and not jack at all, or I raise the Spyder by jacking all wheels at once, then place ramps under the front tires, and use a concrete block and cap block under the rear tire. I do set the brake to prevent movement once placed on the raised supports.

 

[PMK]

If the jack is on the shock " eye " … the BOLT that goes thru that " EYE " is also lifted …. and puts a lot of pressure ie. Force upon the two side brackets that contain the shock " eye " ….. you might be able to get the bolt to pass thru using B F H , but you won't ever get the bolt to pass back thru ….UNLESS you move the jack to some other location on the rear frame …. by using the method I described above in another post - you jack it up once and done …… but I do realize you have done the impossible ( the DESS module - removed with the Frunk still on ) ….. Mike hyea:

The force you describe is identical whether you lift at the shock eyelet or under the chassis.

If you jack under the chassis, the suspension droop weight is induced into those shock mount brackets, and the bolt.hyea:hyea::thumbup:

If you lift under the shock eyelet, the suspension droop weight is induced into those shock mount brackets, and the bolt.hyea:hyea::thumbup:

This is in regards to lifting only. If the person jacking applies side loads it may be possible to bend the brackets.:lecturef_smilie:

 

[PinkRosePetal]

…… but I do realize you have done the impossible ( the DESS module - removed with the Frunk still on ) ….. Mike hyea:

Hehe. Some of us are just cleverer than others...

The rear suspension is a 2nd class lever system, very like a plier type nut cracker in operation. The rear bike load is applied to the end of the lever (the swing arm at the wheel), the pivot is at the front of the swing arm and the suspension spring is the 'nut' in the nut cracker. When the bike is on its wheels, there is substantially more load on the bolt than there will be by a simple lifting of the bike weight at the bottom of the spring/shocker. Won't there?

 

[jbim]

I use DIY wooden ramps. Four pieces of 6 X 1 (yes 1 not 2), staggered to obtain the ramp up effect, for a total of three inches high. I used leftover cedar planks. I use three such ramps, one for each wheel. Works for me.

 

[bikerbillone]

Hmmm, this all has me confused as I try picture the front wheels on the car ramps. I can see where more weight is shifted to the rear of the machine so that the extended mud flap may drag, as on the 2020 RT, one day someone will do a U Tube and it all will become clear.

 

[merlot]

i bought some half height plastic ramps
they are perfect for oil change on the spyder as both drain plugs are to the rear
you can drive up the ramps as they are not too high,but dont work so well on smooth concrete,as they tend to slip...rough concrete is fine tho

russ

 

[bikerbillone]

How high is half height?

 

[troop]

i bought some half height plastic ramps
they are perfect for oil change on the spyder as both drain plugs are to the rear
you can drive up the ramps as they are not too high,but dont work so well on smooth concrete,as they tend to slip...rough concrete is fine tho

russ

I like those ...
https://www.amazon.com/RhinoGear-11...words=plastic+car+ramps&qid=1582065808&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Discount-Ram...&keywords=plastic+ramps&qid=1582065943&sr=8-2

 

[Rattlebars]

See this post:

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...s-for-the-F3&p=1279758&viewfull=1#post1279758

 

[merlot]

How high is half height?

theyre 160mm or a bit over 6 inches

i've driven manual and auto up them...because they are low,its not intimidating to drive up them....except for slipping on the smooth concrete
and great for oil changes

russ