Any input on the Optimal angle of trailer ramps for loading a Spyder?

[NutinElse2do]

Afternoon all,

Waiting on a few more things before taking delivery of our New 2025 S2S, hopefully, next week (happy dance)!

We are now searching for enclosed trailers (6.5 x 12 ) and have seen several that fit our needs, but have barn doors (68 inch opening) only no ramp.

What I am curious is, if the AI response is correct regarding the angle the ramps needs to be.

The ideal ramp angle for loading a Can-Am Spyder RT Limited is between 16 and 23 degrees, with 18 degrees often cited as a good target. A lower angle, such as below 19 degrees, is preferable to prevent the front of the Spyder from scraping on the ground.

I am trying to figure the approximate ramp length I need using rise run calculations, but 16 to 23 degrees is a wide window.

If I could get input from people who have the ideal set up (no blocks etc), it would help me determine the ramp angle/length I need.

Example (my rise to the trailer floor is 19 inches and my ramps are 5 ft long).

Thanks in advance,

NutinElse2Do aka Richard and Nikki
Almost own a 2025 RT Limited S2S…

 

[Uticat]

Check out this thread

U

Thread 'What do you think of these Ramps for loading a Spyder onto an aluminum utility trailer?'

Jan 16, 2025

Just wondering what you folks think of these ramps for loading? Overkill? Just right? Not enough? Was going to get 3 of these. According to Discount Ramps measurement equation, it seems an 8' ramp will do. The trailer is 6'x10' with a 20" deck height. The Spyder weighs 1000 pounds, with me an extra 200, so would a 1000 ramp in the center be enough?

https://www.discountramps.com/motorcycle/ramps/p/311215/?srsltid=AfmBOopovoYlCFV_DfP58vhv9Fff2PCx053dPhJAnpXem8Ouo3PGq8njp1U&gPromoCode=10offlfashsalewke12025&gQT=1

• Uticat
• Replies: 15
• Forum: Spyder Trailers

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[Cobranut]

Afternoon all,

Waiting on a few more things before taking delivery of our New 2025 S2S, hopefully, next week (happy dance)!

We are now searching for enclosed trailers (6.5 x 12 ) and have seen several that fit our needs, but have barn doors (68 inch opening) only no ramp.

What I am curious is, if the AI response is correct regarding the angle the ramps needs to be.

The ideal ramp angle for loading a Can-Am Spyder RT Limited is between 16 and 23 degrees, with 18 degrees often cited as a good target. A lower angle, such as below 19 degrees, is preferable to prevent the front of the Spyder from scraping on the ground.

I am trying to figure the approximate ramp length I need using rise run calculations, but 16 to 23 degrees is a wide window.

If I could get input from people who have the ideal set up (no blocks etc), it would help me determine the ramp angle/length I need.

Example (my rise to the trailer floor is 19 inches and my ramps are 5 ft long).

Thanks in advance,

NutinElse2Do aka Richard and Nikki
Almost own a 2025 RT Limited S2S…

I would HIGHLY recommend buying a trailer with a beaver-tail and a drop-down ramp door rather than trying to use separate ramps.
The door is a fairly low angle, and if you still have clearance issues a longer extension is easily added.

Fumbling around with separate ramps will quickly get old, and having to store them alongside or under the spyder risks damage to your bike.

 

[2dogs]

I would HIGHLY recommend buying a trailer with a beaver-tail and a drop-down ramp door rather than trying to use separate ramps.
The door is a fairly low angle, and if you still have clearance issues a longer extension is easily added.

Fumbling around with separate ramps will quickly get old, and having to store them alongside or under the spyder risks damage to your bike.

Exactly what Cobranut said. And in addition to that, you can get spring assisted cables to attach to the inside of the trailer door opening to retract and raise the ramp (trailer rear door). Some toy haulers come with those already installed. Good luck.

 

[Cobranut]

Exactly what Cobranut said. And in addition to that, you can get spring assisted cables to attach to the inside of the trailer door opening to retract and raise the ramp (trailer rear door). Some toy haulers come with those already installed. Good luck.

All the ramp door trailers I've seen have the spring assist cables as standard.
Even an aluminum trailer door such as mine would be quite heavy to lift without that assist.

 

[2dogs]

All the ramp door trailers I've seen have the spring assist cables as standard.
Even an aluminum trailer door such as mine would be quite heavy to lift without that assist.

Also go 7x12, you won't be sorry.

 

[Mikey]

I am in favor of the drop-down ramp trailers myself, and that's what I have, yet even still, I found with mine that because of the tire size I still had to make some little transition ramps so that my beak didn't bump at the start, and then I had to add a 2by up the center at the top of the ramp to lift the back up so that the shift actuator didn't hit the lip of the deck on the way in! No matter what trailer you choose to use, you need two people on the first run up the ramps, go slow, and have eyes on the ground to make sure it's not going to hit ANY where! If I was going to use a barn door trailer and it was 12 ft long, why are you trying to be so precise with the ramp degree's? Just make them 8-10 feet long, the longer the better, you will have plenty space to tuck them into the trailer and you will not have to worry about anything hitting on the way in! Remember, you will not always be on level ground when you park and if the ramp is on a slope your angles will be steeper, so you run the risk of a strike if you don't have that extra fudge factor! Good luck, don't over think it, and try to get down the nates behind, add a little extra!

 

[Dakotaz]

I copied and saved this from a previous post on here. Not sure who originally posted this...

This was originally posted in another thread. Someone PM'ed me and said that other people might get some value out of it if it were more "searchable". So, here it is in its own thread.

Dan​

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To keep the nose from "bottoming out" here is how to figure out how long a ramp you need.​

Here is the base formula:​

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ramp length needed = (height from ground to bed of trailer) divided by (minimum clearance) then multiply the result by (distance from nose to front tires)​

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The Spyder has 4" of clearance - use this number not the 4 1/2 inches. This will give you "goof room" later.​

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My 2012 RT measures 17.5 inches from the tip of the nose to a perpendicular line drawn from where each front tire touches the ground.​

If you have a different year, make sure you measure this for yourself. Don't trust that there have been no changes. Measure it. Draw a line from under the front of the front right tire to the front of the left tire - where the tire touches the ground. Then measure from the tip of the nose to the line.​

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Measure with a tape measure the distance from the TOP of the bed of the trailer to the ground with the trailer being level.​

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Divide the measurement to the ground by 4.​

Multiply the result by 17.5 if you have a 2012. Use your number that you got from measuring the distance from the nose to the tire line if you do not have a 2012 RT. If you are unsure, as if you measured it three times and got three different numbers, use the largest number. This will give you "goof room."​

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So if the trailer is 14" off the ground you need a ramp that is:​

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14 divided by 4 equals 3.5​

3.5 multiplied by 17.5 equals 61.25 This is the minimum ramp length in inches (round up).​

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So get a 62" or longer ramp.​

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Make sure the ramps you use are at least 12" wide. The front tires are wider than you expect, and if you miss the ramp, or drive off the ramp, you will not get good results.​

My trailer is 14" off the ground.
I use a 5' long by 18" wide ramp for the back tire and
two 6' by 12" wide ramps for the front tires.

I purchased my ramps at discountramps.com