• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Using 4 FOBO TPMS senders to monitor the tires + ACS too!

How did you end up successfully running the firmware update? I tried multiple times yesterday but kept getting disconnected from the sensor. Once it disconnects, it wants me to remove the sensor for 8 seconds and try again. Never seems to fix the issue though.

All that I did was install them and the set it up for the reverse trike with air bag.

The only glitch that I had was one sensor did not connect until I rolled the spyder out of the garage and it connected then. I put this off to me having a metal roof on my House/garage.

Try moving outside and then install them. Sometimes things get in the way of wifi & internet connections.
also when installing them make sure to do it one at a time with the others moved away from the one that you are installing.
 
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All that I did was install them and the set it up for the reverse trike with air bag.

The only glitch that I had was one sensor did not connect until I rolled the spyder out of the garage and it connected then. I put this off to me having a metal roof on my House/garage.

Try moving outside and then install them. Sometimes things get in the way of wifi & internet connections.
also when installing them make sure to do it one at a time with the others moved away from the one that you are installing.

I was outside when I installed them. They are working now, now that I figured out from the video they had to be done 1 at a time and before removing all of the paper between the battery and the device. At least they're working. At some point I'll try and update the firmware. They did tell me a story about my last visit to the dealer. I asked them to add air to the fronts and back. Apparently they never did that. The right front was down to 13 pounds. The AS shock was way down. I told the wife I'm going to save up and replace that shock next year with a regular shock. I'm tired of it losing air all the time.
 
HEY QUICKDRAW. Just Wait 'til you find out that rear AIR-SHOCK isn’t really an air shock.
T.P.
 
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HEY QUICKDRAW. Just Wait 'til you find out that rear AIR-SHOCK isn’t really an air shock.
T.P.

It is because I've filled it up numerous times. It's an air-filled shock, just not one that is auto-fill. That's on the RTL.

On another note, one of my front tires was flat Thursday so I filled it up. The next day, it was flat again. I filled it up this morning and this afternoon it was flatter than flat. So, I figured when installed the locking nut, I went too far when putting it on and pierced my valve stem. When I got home, I filled it up and did a soap test. There was no leak. So, the only logical solution was to remove the locking nut. That did the trick. Apparently, the sensor wasn't able to screw in all the way because I was not able to get the locking nut screwed in far enough, and it was leaking air. Removing the nut fix the issue. So now either I leave the locking nuts off or remove the beveled part on the back of the nut so I can get it on the valve further. I'm not really sure I need that lock nut where I live.

Kind of a strange situation that the lock nut was causing the issue. Odd though that the rear tire isn't having this problem. The rear shock valve has plenty of thread on it so that's not an issue either.
 
That diagram is for a 2021 RTL SE6. Mine's an RT Base SE6. That diagram shows a compressor. I don't have a compressor in mine. It's manual fill.
 
. Removing the nut fix the issue. So now either I leave the locking nuts off or remove the beveled part on the back of the nut so I can get it on the valve further. I'm not really sure I need that lock nut where I live.

Kind of a strange situation that the lock nut was causing the issue. Odd though that the rear tire isn't having this problem. The rear shock valve has plenty of thread on it so that's not an issue either.

First set I installed I looked the lock nut over closely then flung it over my shoulder into the trash can.
 
That diagram is for a 2021 RTL SE6. Mine's an RT Base SE6. That diagram shows a compressor. I don't have a compressor in mine. It's manual fill.

The ACS & its associated Airbag hasn't really changed since its inception on Spyders; and the only real differences between the Auto and Manual systems from 2010 right thru 'til the present day are that the Auto systems have the addition of a compressor (item 210 & assoc on the diag), a relief valve (item 360 & assoc), and the height level sensor (item 390 & assoc), plus a few different length hoses/tubing & their connectors, a bit of wiring, & possibly a dash switch (a switch that's probably incorrectly labeled Hard/Soft where it really should say something like Up/Down or High/Low :p ); while the Manual system simply has a hose that runs directly from its fill point at the Schraeder Valve down into the top of the Air bag & can only be adjusted manually thru that. There might be some other effectively minor variations, but yours is going to be pretty much EXACTLY the same as that shown in the diagram Quickdraw, only without the addition of those components identified that make it 'auto'! ;)

But I believe the real point trying to be made by T.P. Quickdraw, is that the 'Airbag' is NOT a 'shock' or even an 'Air shock' - it's an Air BAG that's quite separate in the suspension/its action &/or contribution to the suspension from the shock/coil assembly; and the volume of air in that bag is only really used to adjust & hopefully maintain your preset ride Height, regardless of that being set manually or automatically! :lecturef_smilie:

And as with everything similarly made out of 'rubber & its variants', these Air Bags are prone to leak air out over time - even if there's no 'leak' or puncture per se in the bag - just like in your tires, air & therefore pressure will gradually work its way out by seeping thru the 'rubber' at a molecular level. Well, in the case of these particular Air Bags, this actually occurs somewhat quicker than it will in your tires, largely because the air bag is so much smaller and as the suspension absorbs road shock & bumps, the pressure peaks a lot higher & spikes/decompresses rapidly, so the air gets forced out thru any means possible & therefore pressure will drop pretty quickly - but if you're having to pump it up from flat or close to flat more often than about once a fortnight or so, you've probably got a bigger leak or puncture somewhere or the valve isn't sealing properly! :shocked: Remove/replace the valve insert to clear/re-seat it, maybe even replace the valve insert with a new one just to be sure, then use a squirt of soapy water on the Schraeder valve, the hose, all hose joins/connectors, and especially around the top and bottom of the air bag to look for bubbles & identify where the leak might be, fixing/replacing as necessary. It's even a good idea to jack up the rear of the Spyder so the bag lifts off its seat a little - if you leave it sitting down on the air bag, that can hide any tiny leaks that might occur where the bottom of the bag has worn thru on any small stones &/or grit, dust, etc that can get caught between the bag & the swing arm's bearing surface there. ;)

Just Sayin' :thumbup:

Ps: If you can't find a leak but are having to pump the Air Bag up from flat/nearly flat more often than about a month or so, you could try adding a tablespoon or two full of 'Slime' or similar via the Schraeder valve, once the valve insert has been removed of course; then pump the bag up to your chosen pressure & go for a 30+ minute ride before letting it sit at pressure overnight. This often works on small leaks for Manual Air Bag Systems, but is not recommended for use on Auto Systems, altho some have done just this very successfully... but you do run the risk of gumming up the valves/bleeders &/or compressor on the ACS if you do! :lecturef_smilie:
 
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The ACS & its associated Airbag hasn't really changed since its inception on Spyders; and the only real differences between the Auto and Manual systems from 2010 right thru 'til the present day are that the Auto systems have the addition of a compressor (item 210 & assoc on the diag), a relief valve (item 360 & assoc), and the height level sensor (item 390 & assoc), plus a few different length hoses/tubing & their connectors, a bit of wiring, & possibly a dash switch (a switch that's probably incorrectly labeled Hard/Soft where it really should say something like Up/Down or High/Low :p ); while the Manual system simply has a hose that runs directly from its fill point at the Schraeder Valve down into the top of the Air bag & can only be adjusted manually thru that. There might be some other effectively minor variations, but yours is going to be pretty much EXACTLY the same as that shown in the diagram Quickdraw, only without the addition of those components identified that make it 'auto'! ;)

But I believe the real point trying to be made by T.P. Quickdraw, is that the 'Airbag' is NOT a 'shock' or even an 'Air shock' - it's an Air BAG that's quite separate in the suspension/its action &/or contribution to the suspension from the shock/coil assembly; and the volume of air in that bag is only really used to adjust & hopefully maintain your preset ride Height, regardless of that being set manually or automatically! :lecturef_smilie:

And as with everything similarly made out of 'rubber & its variants', these Air Bags are prone to leak air out over time - even if there's no 'leak' or puncture per se in the bag - just like in your tires, air & therefore pressure will gradually work its way out by seeping thru the 'rubber' at a molecular level. Well, in the case of these particular Air Bags, this actually occurs somewhat quicker than it will in your tires, largely because the air bag is so much smaller and as the suspension absorbs road shock & bumps, the pressure peaks a lot higher & spikes/decompresses rapidly, so the air gets forced out thru any means possible & therefore pressure will drop pretty quickly - but if you're having to pump it up from flat or close to flat more often than about once a fortnight or so, you've probably got a bigger leak or puncture somewhere or the valve isn't sealing properly! :shocked: Remove/replace the valve insert to clear/re-seat it, maybe even replace the valve insert with a new one just to be sure, then use a squirt of soapy water on the Schraeder valve, the hose, all hose joins/connectors, and especially around the top and bottom of the air bag to look for bubbles & identify where the leak might be, fixing/replacing as necessary. It's even a good idea to jack up the rear of the Spyder so the bag lifts off its seat a little - if you leave it sitting down on the air bag, that can hide any tiny leaks that might occur where the bottom of the bag has worn thru on any small stones &/or grit, dust, etc that can get caught between the bag & the swing arm's bearing surface there. ;)

Just Sayin' :thumbup:

Ps: If you can't find a leak but are having to pump the Air Bag up from flat/nearly flat more often than about a month or so, you could try adding a tablespoon or two full of 'Slime' or similar via the Schraeder valve, once the valve insert has been removed of course; then pump the bag up to your chosen pressure & go for a 30+ minute ride before letting it sit at pressure overnight. This often works on small leaks for Manual Air Bag Systems, but is not recommended for use on Auto Systems, altho some have done just this very successfully... but you do run the risk of gumming up the valves/bleeders &/or compressor on the ACS if you do! :lecturef_smilie:

Just seems odd that this air bag that is not directly related to the shock, when empty, and I hit a bump, it feels like I just drove though a huge pothole, but when I add air, no more thud. I'll do some reading on it.
 
Just seems odd that this air bag that is not directly related to the shock, when empty, and I hit a bump, it feels like I just drove though a huge pothole, but when I add air, no more thud. I'll do some reading on it.

That's because the OEM Shock & Coil assembly is basically inadequate to carry the load of even just the Spyder & a rider without the assistance of the Ride Height Setting Airbag... :lecturef_smilie:

The Airbag is still an integral part of the suspension, cos you need some air in the airbag not only to avoid damaging the bag itself, but also to set/maintain the ride height. But for one, it's too small to be an effective 'shock absorber' and secondly, where it's placed in the suspension is not a great place or even a mildly good place to provide any real 'shock control or damping', but it IS IDEALLY situated to maintain a set ride height with such a relatively small airbag and pretty low pressure!! :ohyea:

But (I suspect in a cost limiting/cutting exercise... :rolleyes: ) BRP has under-specified the shock/coil assembly such that it cannot do ITS job without some air in the airbag, even just 10 psi will work, in which case the shock/coil then works OK (sorta, anyway! :p ); but without any air in the bag, the shock/coil assy will bottom out on some bumps, unless it's stopped from doing that by the top of tire hitting the underside of the rear wheel arch before it hammers the shock/coil assembly!! :banghead:

Just Sayin' ;)
 
That's because the OEM Shock & Coil assembly is basically inadequate to carry the load of even just the Spyder & a rider without the assistance of the Ride Height Setting Airbag... :lecturef_smilie:

The Airbag is still an integral part of the suspension, cos you need some air in the airbag not only to avoid damaging the bag itself, but also to set/maintain the ride height. But for one, it's too small to be an effective 'shock absorber' and secondly, where it's placed in the suspension is not a great place or even a mildly good place to provide any real 'shock control or damping', but it IS IDEALLY situated to maintain a set ride height with such a relatively small airbag and pretty low pressure!! :ohyea:

But (I suspect in a cost limiting/cutting exercise... :rolleyes: ) BRP has under-specified the shock/coil assembly such that it cannot do ITS job without some air in the airbag, even just 10 psi will work, in which case the shock/coil then works OK (sorta, anyway! :p ); but without any air in the bag, the shock/coil assy will bottom out on some bumps, unless it's stopped from doing that by the top of tire hitting the underside of the rear wheel arch before it hammers the shock/coil assembly!! :banghead:

Just Sayin' ;)

Thanks for the explanation, Peter. It makes a lot more sense now. Maybe the next course of action for me is to figure out a way to use the extension I bought and mount it to the outside of the bike, so I don't have to keep removing the seat. I'll have to give it some thought but I'm sure there is some type of fitting that will work, be mostly hidden and not something I'm always catching my leg on, yet easily accessible. These are the times I wish I had a 3D printer.
 
HEY QUICKDRAW. Just Wait 'til you find out that rear AIR-SHOCK isn’t really an air shock.
T.P.

Peter gave me a good explanation, but I also talked to the service tech at my local dealership. He indeed confirmed that the "bladder" they use is to accommodate all types of riders, but also admitted that they could have done a better job implementing the idea. He mentioned that their snowmobiles have remote adjusters and that the Spyder should have the same technology and do away with the bladder system.

I guess it's true that you can teach an old dog new tricks. So, thanks for challenging me on this. It got me thinking and Peter put the nail in the coffin so to speak. :bdh:
 
I have read all of the issues in this thread. I am in fact now afraid to install the sensors. I have a new set and was going to put them on this afternoon but a Professional truck driving friend told me that they will cause the stem to wear out and start to leak. I think he's wrong. Tell me he's wrong.
 
I have read all of the issues in this thread. I am in fact now afraid to install the sensors. I have a new set and was going to put them on this afternoon but a Professional truck driving friend told me that they will cause the stem to wear out and start to leak. I think he's wrong. Tell me he's wrong.

He's WRONG! :eek:
 
:agree: Yes he's wrong.

I have had mine about 3 years now with no issues at all.
Also always replace your valve stems when you replace the tires.
 
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