Trail braking while turning hard left

[Bunson]

As I get more comfortable with my RT I'm riding harder when I want to. I use my outside leg to push down while also using my inside knee to maintain body position. The problem I'm having is modulating the brake late into a corner while pushing down hard at the same time when going around left hand turns.
Yesterday I intentionally got the Nanny to kick in on a left turn. I thought 'that wasn't bad at all, maybe I'll just let the Nanny brake for lefts.' Not really but how to you keep body control while cornering hard left and brake at the same time?

 

[2dogs]

If you need to use brakes in a turn you may be in over your head.

 

[fatboy]

brake before turn then accelerate thru and out

 

[BajaRon]

If you need to use brakes in a turn you may be in over your head.

Agreed, you should normally do most, if not all, of your braking before you enter the turn.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

If you need to use brakes in a turn you may be in over your head.

:agree: ...... I ride aggressive and always Downshift going into a sharp turn. This method works for me .... try it ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Hypurone]

While I agree with the majority of braking being done BEFORE the apex, just like anything, it can be done and done safely/well with practice... Being that it is a foot control issue, it will be much harder to master. Especially if you haven't ridden 2 wheels.. IMO, this skill/technique is a MUST learn for those moments when something unexpectedly crosses your path mid-corner.... YRMV.

 

[BajaRon]

:agree: ...... I ride aggressive and always Downshift going into a sharp turn. This method works for me .... try it ..... Mike :thumbup:

Downshifting is important. It not only slows you without wearing your brakes out. It prepares you by being in the correct gear to power out of the turn.

 

[Bunson]

Thanks for the replies. I probably didn't explain myself very well in the first post.
I've ridden many bikes for decades and started out with the MSF slow in and fast out style of riding. It's a good way to learn. However trail braking into a corner has a number of safety advantages. Most of the braking is done before turn in begins but pressure is kept on the brakes all the way to the apex. This keeps the front suspension loaded for maximum traction in case there is a surprise in the middle of the corner. Also the fingers or foot (with the spyder) are already on the lever/pedal saving reaction time. For me anyway, I find it easier to modulate the brakes if needed compared to lifting my foot and stomping on the pedal. Recipe for disaster.
I wear a size 9 shoe and find it difficult to brace myself with the heel of my foot while working the brake with the ball of my foot.

 

[RayBJ]

I may be wrong but my understanding is if you're riding the brake in a turn (trail braking) on a spyder, the nanny is likely to complain and react sooner than no braking in the corner.

The first thing I had to do when I got the spyder was to try and un-learn most of the 2-wheel techniques that have kept me alive to date!

 

[Knizar]

My only reason for braking in mid-curve , Stop Sign ahead, or something out of the normal. Curve braking is unsafe and very hard on any vehicle. just MHO.

 

[Lew L]

.

I use my core muscles with the left knee against the " tank" in a left turn. I could brake IF I wanted to.

Lew L

 

[ButterSmooth]

Trail braking is the way of life on two wheels. The foot (at least my foot) is just not precise and accurate enough to make it happen on a Spyder. I miss it and the fine level of control a hand lever provides. It's one of the things I had to give up when changing to a Spyder. But, I still get to ride. Apparently lots of folks don't understand the sophistication of trail braking and the delicate balance of using all available traction.

 

[Hypurone]

......
I wear a size 9 shoe and find it difficult to brace myself with the heel of my foot while working the brake with the ball of my foot.

I am using Alpinestars Roam 2 Air boots... These have all the safety stuff but are still flexible enough to allow for better articulation and control of the pedal....

 

[Snoking1127]

If you want your Spyder to perform better in corners, they get rid for the Kenda tires, put on the BajaRons HD anti-sway bar. I also installed Ron's shock adjusters. So with Federals on the front and a General out back, it is a completely different machine in the twisties. Note: I have the same machine as the OP!

 

[spyder01]

I find that if the turn is clear meaning you can see all the way thru then I don't worry much about braking. If visibility is limited and I'm going in a little hot then I can hover my foot over the pedal by using my left knee to hold my weight. It's not easy but very doable for me. I really wish these bikes had a handbrake, but at this point I'm not putting out 1500 bucks to add one. Does anyone remember the cable operated one that Lamonster was working on? Maybe someone has a link to that post? I guess for whatever reason he never brought it to market. I've always felt that driving a Spyder hard thru twisties is much more of a workout than on a 2 wheeler and it makes me feel like I'm actually a working part of the bike rather than just a rider, maybe that's why I like it so much?

 

[Bunson]

I do have the sway bar and I'm running Quatrac's all the way around. I absolutely agree spyder01 that these bikes are much more physically demanding to ride hard then a two wheel bike. I haven't gone on any long rides yet but I already know that if I even last a full day I will be exhausted at the end. I have been using my left knee but certainly need to be better at that.
I believe there are different brake linkages for the F3 that allow for different pedal height. Is there anything for the RT? The pedal seems rather high and lowering it would help.
As a side note, when I picked up the bike from having the tires installed the brakes were not there. I tried pumping them up to no avail. I had the Show Chrome oversized pedal on. I ended up pushing the brake pedal far enough to cause the floorboard to release. At the time I thought I had broken something. When I got home and looked I realized that if you push the pedal far enough the floor board is made to release. So, lowering the pedal may not be a good idea.

 

[Navydad]

Never been a fan of big, heavy touring machines. I've always prefered sport touring or sport bikes. On these machines trail braking is a way of life and no it isn't dangerous unless you panic and stomp the brake in which case you need more training/practice. I have pretty much gave up trying to trail brake my RT except in certain situations. I just let Nanny do her thing when I get into the twisties. I find that with car tires and the sway bar that Nanny kicks in sooner than I like, but it is what it is. I like the twisties and usually the traction control light is on almost constantly and Nanny doesn't get much chance to catch her breath.