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Tools needed for Ryker wheel change

What a coincidence, mine just arrived in the mail yesterday from the UK. Now I need to figure out where to secure this thing on my new Tricycle. It is rather large. Maybe zip tie and somewhere in the engine compartment out of the way.
 
I received my socket from the UK. It is quite sizeable and heavy. In fact, it probly exceeds the weight capacity of the glove compartment. What's a guy to do?
 
The socket isn't going to do you any good without a 250 lb. ft. torque wrench. And many torque wrenches are not designed to remove (backwards torque). I may take it on long trips in case a wheel removal is needed. But those removing the wheel will need to supply the wrench to turn it.

I also had to get one of these since my torque wrench is 1/2" and the socket drive is 3/4".
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-3-8-1-...var=522018230290&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648
 
So, are you saying that something like this won't be able to remove the wheel?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-50-250-ft-lbs-1-2-in-Drive-Torque-Wrench-H2DTWA/205914009

I am just saying you can't take for granted that your torque wrench is designed to break loose a 220 lb. ft. nut in the counter clock-wise direction. Some manufacturers will say not to turn the torque wrench with much force in the counter clock-wise direction. Some will say you can break things loose but you can't get accurate torque values in the counter clock-wise direction (which is not needed in this application). And some wrenches are specifically designed to remove and torque accurately in both directions for both left and right handed threads. These tend to be your high end wrenches.

The torque wrench you have linked here has a switch lever for reversing the ratchet. But this does not guarantee it is designed to be used to break loose a 220 lb. ft. torqued nut. You want to be sure not to use a torque wrench in any way that might disturb calibration. And you want to use the torque wrench as designed or your torque value will be inaccurate. For example. Torque values are calibrated for applying force near the center of the handle area. Applying force only at the end of the handle or using a cheater bar on a torque wrench can give you very inaccurate readings.

Torque wrenches can be very reliable tools. They just take a bit more care in use and storage than the average ratchet wrench.

I am planning to use a 3/4" breaker bar to remove the nut and this to torque it back. https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-...PIPHorizontal3_rr-_-205914009-_-300498841-_-N

This is exactly what I plan to do. Though I've found I will need a cheater bar on my breaker bar to make the job easier. I also need a lot of heft on my torque wrench to get to 220 lb. ft. of torque. I suggest getting the longest torque wrench you can find. Even a few inches will make a difference.

The torque wrench you have listed is 3/4" drive so it will not need the 1/2" to 3/4" adapter that mine requires for the socket.
 
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I can just lean on a torque wrench to get to 225# and have more in reserve. :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: cueman
 
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