The Krikit...what should it read?

[Mazo EMS2]

I ordered a Krikit from Ron and I'll probably have it mid week. I searched for belt tension readings, but everything I found was old and didn't really provide an answer. From what I gather I should shoot for a reading of around 180-200 on the Krikit, with the wheel ON THE GROUND on my 2010 RT....Does that sound about right? The bike is running nice and smooth/quiet right now, after I tightened it a couple weeks ago, but I worry the belt might be too tight now adding undue stress to the bearings, so, I wanna check it to be sure. I figure for $20, it's a no-brainer.

Thanks

 

[Chupaca]

Don't know..!!

I have a 2012 RS and run a bit less. There are several settings different models and years. I checked with the kricket right after the dealer had done the sonic test. Rather have a bit of vibrations than tear up the bearings especially the counter shaft. :yikes:

 

[IGETAROUND]

as Gene pointed out, too tight is a major repair nightmare.

Might be worth the small cost to have the dealer zap and adjust properly then take it back home and take your readings with the kricket.

However the numbers you stated sound about ball park with the wheel on the ground; at least for my RS.:agree:

 

[oldguyinTX]

The Kricket is a nifty little tool isn't it? I have a SmoothSpyder belt tensioner on my 2013 RT, and Jim told me that the tension should be 236 lbs, and yes, you can check it on the ground.

 

[finless]

Read this post by Ron. Lots of good info including what you should read on different models.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...rikit-II-Belt-Tension-Gauges&highlight=kirkit

Bob

 

[Devious56]

The Kricket is a nifty little tool isn't it? I have a SmoothSpyder belt tensioner on my 2013 RT, and Jim told me that the tension should be 236 lbs, and yes, you can check it on the ground.

I don't know about the Kricket, but I just had my SmoothSpyder belt tensioner installed yesterday, and checked the mounting instructions that came with it again to make sure, and on the scale that came with my tensioner, the instructions said to load the belt to 12 to 14 pounds. The only reason I mention this is the seemingly huge difference is what my instructions say, and the poundage ( 236 ) you say to set the Kricket. Maybe Jim will read this and clearify this difference in tension settings.

By the way, it really made a difference in the smoothness of my RT going down the road, it didn't make the belt slap disappear, but certainly muted it, and also move the vibration to a high RPM range that is above my normal riding speed. Thanks to Jim for such a great product.

David ~

 

[KennW]

BRP RECOMMENDED BELT TENSIONS for SPYDERS 2008 thru 2014 YEAR BUILDS

NOTE : Conversion Tool.
The following URL leads to a very useful conversion tool for converting N (Newton Metres) to LBF (Pounds Force).

http://www.tiniusolsen.com/resource-center/n-lbf.html

For those that prefer to use thier fingers you may use the following Formula, N = 4.44882 LBF

This conversion is done so those without an extremely expensive "Sonic Guage" may instead use the very reasonably priced "Krikit Guage" which reads in pounds force (LBF) to check the belt tension on thier own Spyder.

BRP RECOMMENDED BELT TENSIONS

NOTE: The following information has been sourced from BRP service manuals or service bulletins only

1. Spyders Year Model 2008 through 2012

BRP Recommended Belt Tension
450 N +/- 150 N

Converted to pounds force (LBF)
450 N = 101 LBF
150 N = 34 LBF

Therefore the Drive Belt Tension should measure between

67 LBF to 135 LBF

2. Spyders Year Models 2013

BRP Recommended Belt Tension
1050 N +/- 150 N

Converted to pounds force (LBF)
1050 N = 237 LBF
150 N = 34 LBF

Therefore the Drive Belt Tension should measure between

203 LBF to 271 LBF

3. Spyder Year Models 2014

BRP Recommended Belt Tension
1050 N +/- 150 N

Converted to pounds force (LBF)
1050 N = 237 LBF
150 N = 34 LBF

Therefore the Drive Belt Tension should be between

LBF is 203 LBF to 271 LBF
.......................................

When checking or adjusting the Drive Belt Tension you should also check the gap between the inner edge of the drive belt and the edge of the flange on the rear pulley. This gap should be between 1mm and 5mm.

Tension required when re-torquing the axle nut is 225 N.

Note:
1. Measurements should be taken on topside of the belt midway between the front and rear sprocket. The rear wheel should lifted off the ground and drive belt tension parts should be at room temperature.

2.The lifting point must be on the frame NOT under the rear shock absorber.

3. For early model Spyders (2008/9) it was stated that measurements were to be checked at 6 different points. ie - line up a spoke on rear wheel with swing arm - check tension. Spin wheel till next spoke aligns with swingarm - check tension and so on. Once tensions checked with all 3 spokes aligned with swing arm repeat the process with the midway points between spokes aligned with swing arm.

BRP even have a decal (P/N 704903694) with required tensions listed that can be afixed to your Spyder as a reminder.

I've put this information in the hope that it may clarify the differences between individual views (as seen on many forums or verbally shared) compared to what BRP has documented as the required Drive Belt Tension for our Spyders.

Hopefully this information may be of some assistance to all my Spyder Owners.


Regards
Kenn

 

[spydermanstever]

I ordered a Krikit from Ron and I'll probably have it mid week. I searched for belt tension readings, but everything I found was old and didn't really provide an answer. From what I gather I should shoot for a reading of around 180-200 on the Krikit, with the wheel ON THE GROUND on my 2010 RT....Does that sound about right? The bike is running nice and smooth/quiet right now, after I tightened it a couple weeks ago, but I worry the belt might be too tight now adding undue stress to the bearings, so, I wanna check it to be sure. I figure for $20, it's a no-brainer.

Thanks

First of all, make sure you get the Krikit II because the scale on that one is suited for the measurements required for the Spyder. The Krikit II will give you measurements in pounds (lb).

UPDATE : BRP put out a TST (Technical Service Tips) bulletin in June 2015 to all dealers that revises the specs for all Spyders for belt tension. I am fortunate to have a good dealer that provided me with a copy of this bulletin as I do my own minor repairs and adjustments on my Spyder. Here is what that TST recommended :

2008-2012 Models GS/RS/RT > Recommended Belt Tension > 270 N +/- 100
2013-2015 Models RS/ST/RT > Recommended Belt Tension > 630 N +/- 100
2015 Model F3 > Recommended Belt Tension > 300 N +/- 100

Now since your Krikit II measures only in pounds (lbs) and not Newtons (N) like the Gates Sonic Tension Meter that the dealers use, you need to know the conversion, which is :

Newtons (N) x 0.2248 = Pounds (lbs)
Pounds (lbs) x 4.4482 = Newtons (N)

The first conversion above is what you will use for the Krikit. So for example, on your 2010 RT, the recommended belt tension is 270 N x 0.2248 = 47.208 lbs tension ideal, or 170 N x 0.2248 = 38 lbs minimum tension, or 370 N x 0.2248 = 83 lbs maximum tension. You will probably never get it spot on, but as long as you are in the range between min 38 lbs and max 83 lbs, you will be ok. Also, very important, as per the BRP Shop Manual, these readings are to be taken with the back wheel OFF the ground, at room temperature, and measured on the position of the belt in line with the bolt for the passenger floorboard or as close as possible thereto.

My 2015 Spyder RT Limited had an initial spec for belt tension of 1050 N +/- 100. I always felt some vibration at certain speeds/rpms and was starting to learn to accept and live with them. Now with the revised spec that I changed to, the 630 N +/- 100, there is hardly any vibration at all speeds, as I have tested the machine up to 100 mi/hr (briefly & safely of course). You should know that you will never get rid of all vibrations because it is the nature of the machine, with the long drive belt, but if you go with these revised specs put out by BRP, you can reduce the vibrations substantially and see an improvement like I did. I am sure BRP must have listened to all the complaints about belt vibration to warrant putting out this bulletin to all dealers.

Hope this helps. :spyder2:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

BELT TENSION NUMBERS

ATTENTION:......The " correct numbers " given in posts #7 & #8 .....DON'T match each other ...I don't know what Bajaron's number's are they may be different from those also.....So take your pick and pray you guessed right ....................Be careful what you post !!!....Mike :thumbup:

 

[trikermutha]

I can tell you post #7 is more inline with what my manual states for the 2014 RT's :shocked:

 

[Mazo EMS2]

opcorn:

First of all, make sure you get the Krikit II because the scale on that one is suited for the measurements required for the Spyder. The Krikit II will give you measurements in pounds (lb).

UPDATE : BRP put out a TST (Technical Service Tips) bulletin in June 2015 to all dealers that revises the specs for all Spyders for belt tension. I am fortunate to have a good dealer that provided me with a copy of this bulletin as I do my own minor repairs and adjustments on my Spyder. Here is what that TST recommended :

2008-2012 Models GS/RS/RT > Recommended Belt Tension > 270 N +/- 100
2013-2015 Models RS/ST/RT > Recommended Belt Tension > 630 N +/- 100
2015 Model F3 > Recommended Belt Tension > 300 N +/- 100

Now since your Krikit II measures only in pounds (lbs) and not Newtons (N) like the Gates Sonic Tension Meter that the dealers use, you need to know the conversion, which is :

Newtons (N) x 0.2248 = Pounds (lbs)
Pounds (lbs) x 4.4482 = Newtons (N)

The first conversion above is what you will use for the Krikit. So for example, on your 2010 RT, the recommended belt tension is 270 N x 0.2248 = 47.208 lbs tension ideal, or 170 N x 0.2248 = 38 lbs minimum tension, or 370 N x 0.2248 = 83 lbs maximum tension. You will probably never get it spot on, but as long as you are in the range between min 38 lbs and max 83 lbs, you will be ok. Also, very important, as per the BRP Shop Manual, these readings are to be taken with the back wheel OFF the ground and measured on the position of the belt in line with the bolt for the passenger floorboard or as close as possible thereto.

My 2015 Spyder RT Limited had an initial spec for belt tension of 1050 N +/- 100. I always felt some vibration at certain speeds/rpms and was starting to learn to accept and live with them. Now with the revised spec that I changed to, the 630 N +/- 100, there is hardly any vibration at all speeds, as I have tested the machine up to 100 mi/hr (briefly & safely of course). You should know that you will never get rid of all vibrations because it is the nature of the machine, with the long drive belt, but if you go with these revised specs put out by BRP, you can reduce the vibrations substantially and see an improvement like I did. I am sure BRP must have listened to all the complaints about belt vibration to warrant putting out this bulletin to all dealers.

Hope this helps. :spyder2:

It helps. Was hoping that someone would have set the tension to (X) with the wheel off the ground... then checked it again with the wheel on the ground. Wondering what that second tension would read. Would it still be (X), or would it be different. If it's correct with the wheel off the ground, why would it be wrong with the wheel on the ground, if no other adjustments had been made. Not saying that it would remain (X), but why would it be right, then wrong....:yikes: opcorn:

 

[spydermanstever]

opcorn:

It helps. Was hoping that someone would have set the tension to (X) with the wheel off the ground... then checked it again with the wheel on the ground. Wondering what that second tension would read. Would it still be (X), or would it be different. If it's correct with the wheel off the ground, why would it be wrong with the wheel on the ground, if no other adjustments had been made. Not saying that it would remain (X), but why would it be right, then wrong....:yikes: opcorn:

If you set the tension at (X) with wheel off the ground, and recheck the tension with the wheel on the ground, it will be (X) + Y more because with the weight of the machine on the ground, the rear swing arm collapses and tensions up the belt.

 

[tip]

belt tension

I have a '14 RT SE6 and have tried several ways to eliminate belt vibration. Started with a belt tensioner (home made) under the belt. That eliminated most of the vibration.
I then modified the tensioner to be above the belt (tension side) - that helped some also.
Final position is above the belt with approx.1/2" clearance before I mount Spyder. This has eliminated about 99% of all my vibrations - as tested on a 600 mile trip last week.
My Krikit gauge reads approx. 150 lbs. with wheels on ground.
Works for me!

 

[spydermanstever]

ATTENTION:......The " correct numbers " given in posts #7 & #8 .....DON'T match each other ...I don't know what Bajaron's number's are they may be different from those also.....So take your pick and pray you guessed right ....................Be careful what you post !!!....Mike :thumbup:

Here is a copy of the BRP TST (Technical Service Tips) Bulletin that I mentioned in Post #8 to back up what I posted. Only dealers get these bulletins and some dealers will share this information with their customers. Information in manuals get updated by these TST's so I would go with the information on TST's, but the choice is yours. Chances are, next year's manuals will have this updated information.

 

[Mazo EMS2]

If you set the tension at (X) with wheel off the ground, and recheck the tension with the wheel on the ground, it will be (X) + Y more because with the weight of the machine on the ground, the rear swing arm collapses and tensions up the belt.

Exactly....but it's the same bike, with no other adjustments to it. If the tension was correct with the wheel off the ground, then it should be correct with the wheel on the ground. Just wondering what the tension is with the wheel on the ground. I understand they'll be different ON the ground VS OFF the ground. But if one is correct, then the other is too, provided the only difference is lowering the bike onto the ground.

 

[spydermanstever]

Exactly....but it's the same bike, with no other adjustments to it. If the tension was correct with the wheel off the ground, then it should be correct with the wheel on the ground. Just wondering what the tension is with the wheel on the ground. I understand they'll be different ON the ground VS OFF the ground. But if one is correct, then the other is too, provided the only difference is lowering the bike onto the ground.

I think that BRP always states the tension spec with the wheel off the ground because on the ground can have things like weight differences affect the reading. For example, one machine with an empty trunk will weigh less that another machine with a trunk loaded up, so the readings could be different since on the ground is very weight dependent. At least you are on an even playing field when both these machines are jacked up with no weight tensioning the belt. I would suggest if you want, adjust the tension to the correct tension spec with the wheel off the ground, then place the wheel on the ground, take another measurement and use that as a guideline only if you want to check your belt tension on the road with the Krikit II tool when you cannot jack up the machine, but normally that should not be necessary. Also remember that belt tension should be checked at room temperature, because heat (believe it or not) tightens up this specific type of belt, and does not loosen it as one might think.

 

[nslowmotion]

Confusion

Now Im so confused, I dont know if I should be running 630 or 1050 on my 2015 rtl...:banghead::banghead::banghead:

 

[finless]

Let me just say this.... Side on the LOW side of the specs to save your motor's output bearing.
If your not one of those per the TST that complains about belt vibes or even have already added a belt tensioner, SIDE on the low site and I don't give a crap what model year you have.

Just plain simple engineering... you load that motor output shaft bearing more than YOU need it to be... it could be expensive to replace...

Oh and I don't care what BRP says about this..... Let me tell you why... All you need to do it look at history!!!

1) 2008-09 it was a tight spec... They had engine bearing failures...
2) Then they dropped the spec to resolve that, but had RT riders complain of belt vibes... You know "some" RT riders expect Goldwing or luxury styles as far as vibes go!
3) Later they tightened it back up... WHY? To resolve the vibe complaints!

BOTTOM LINE... NOTHING HAS CHANGED WITH ALL THIS! Only thing that has changed is BRP changing the spec to resolve customer satisfaction complaints with belt vibes!
Nothing engineering wise has caused these belt spec changes!

So... with that said... If you don't care about the belt vibe (Harley riders shouldn't... Sorry had to say that)... Then BEST for you to go with old loose specs!

If you do care about the vibe.... Well my opinion is get a Smooth Spyder and leave the loose spec... If you go to the higher spec... Well again my opinion... Don't cry when your out of warranty and you need an engine tear down to replace the output shaft bearing...

I believe BRP is trading something here by increasing the spec... BET YOU A DOLLAR they think that they eliminate the complaints of belts vibes betting that MOST people wont put on a lot of miles and have a bearing failure.... For those that do put on a lot of miles, they are willing to eat those warranty claims which I BET are much smaller than the compaliners about belt vibe.. This is purely a business / customer satisfaction change VS a warranty "cost" claim... It's a BET they are making... My opinion!

So in closing... If your going to be putting on lots of miles... I PERSONALLY would go with the old spec and either deal with the vibe or put on a Smooth SPyder.
If your a low mileage person and don't like the vibe... Go for the high end spec...

This is all about wear VS customer complaints and BRP is making a trade off in my opinion. This is nothing more than an engineering/warranty claim trade off VS customer complaints....... in my opinion.

Bob

 

[BajaRon]

Here is the conversion chart that I send out with the Krikit belt tension gauge. I have found this to be very accurate.

If you would like a copy of this chart. Email me at [email protected] and I will email you a copy.

It is true that taking tension with the wheel on the ground is not as accurate as lifting the Spyder and letting the rear wheel hang on the suspension. But in practice, it is more than accurate enough. My recommendation is to set tension between the middle spec and the high spec.

Gates Krikit II Conversion Table - Can-Am Spyder Drive Belt Tension (As of 06/15 BRP Specs.)
Tension Conversion from BRP Newton's to Pound Force
Gates Krikit II gauge must be in the middle of the belt (Left/Right) and equal distance from the Front Pulley and Rear Pulley (centered length wise). The Krikit II must be placed on top of the upper belt.
Use Steady, Even Pressure as you press STRAIGHT DOWN on the Krikit II Gauge. Release pressure as soon as the Krikit II Clicks. Reset Krickit II Gauge before each reading.
Repeat process until you get the same reading 3 times in a row.
Done properly the Krikit II is very accurate and more than accurate enough for this drive belt.



[TABLE="width: 619"]
[TR]
[TD]998cc All Models (2008 - 2012)[/TD]
[TD]Min[/TD]
[TD]Spec[/TD]
[TD]Max[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Newtons - Wheel Elevated[/TD]
[TD]300n[/TD]
[TD]450n[/TD]
[TD]600n[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Pound Force - Wheel Elevated - Krikit II[/TD]
[TD]67 lbs.[/TD]
[TD]101 lbs.[/TD]
[TD]135 lbs.[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Pound Force - Wheel on the Ground - Krikit II[/TD]
[TD]130 lbs.[/TD]
[TD]160 lbs.[/TD]
[TD]190 lbs.[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

[TABLE="width: 619"]
[TR]
[TD]998cc All Models (2013-2015)[/TD]
[TD]Min[/TD]
[TD]Spec[/TD]
[TD]Max[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Newtons - Wheel Elevated[/TD]
[TD]900n[/TD]
[TD]1050n[/TD]
[TD]1200n[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Pound Force - Wheel Elevated - Krikit II[/TD]
[TD]202 lbs.[/TD]
[TD]236 lbs.[/TD]
[TD]270 lbs.[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

[TABLE="width: 619"]
[TR]
[TD]1330cc All Models (2014-2015)[/TD]
[TD]Min[/TD]
[TD]Spec[/TD]
[TD]Max[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Newtons - Wheel Elevated[/TD]
[TD]900n[/TD]
[TD]1050n[/TD]
[TD]1200n[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Pound Force - Wheel Elevated - Krikit II[/TD]
[TD]202 lbs.[/TD]
[TD]236 lbs.[/TD]
[TD]270 lbs.[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

 

[Mazo EMS2]

Went out for a spin today to take advantage of what could be the last nice week....got home and decided to check the belt tension with the new KrikitII I got from Ron. Might be a silly question, but I'm gonna ask it. Can I measure tension on the underside of the belt, or is it necessary to remove tupperware and other stuff to check it on the top side? Seems when it's just sitting there, it shouldn't matter. I can easily access the underside of the belt at the footpeg, so that's where I checked it. Got a reading of 240lbs with wheel on the ground. That seems pretty high to me, but the bike rides nice and smooth without any vibrations. I'd sure hate to wreck any bearings being too tight. Should I back it down to 180?

Rick