2011 RT Won't Start - switch was loose, so I glued it in, could this be the problem?

[flash2002]

Hi guys, here is my problem. I have a 2011 Spyder RT that was giving me problems starting (intermittent). I noticed the start button wiggles in the hole. I took it apart and the whole switch box was loose, which I think was causing the problem. So I glued the switch in its place, put it all back together so the switch is solid, and now it won't start. I notice the start switch seems to have two contacts, is it possible the two have to compress at the same time? This doesn't really make sense, because nothing seems to push on the top contact. Right now, with the switch solid when you push the button, it pushes on one contact. Can this be the problem, or should I look elsewhere? Thanks.

 

[Mikey]

Not having it in front of me, the way you're saying it I would say that both contacts would have to be made! Can you reach in there and make that other contact to see if it rolls over?

 

[flash2002]

Not having it in front of me, the way you're saying it I would say that both contacts would have to be made! Can you reach in there and make that other contact to see if it rolls over?

I did try that and nothing, the button only pushes on one pad.
I think the second pad is just a bumper. I did check the solenoid and it's good; one thing I did notice is, there is no power to the wire going to the solenoid when I push the start button.

 

[JSRT]

Check to be sure the relays in the fuse boxes are pushed in tight. They have been reported to wiggle loose over time. Sorry, I can't be more specific. I don't have the diagram for your model year.

Maybe someone else can provide more detail.

 

[Mikey]

I did try that and nothing, the button only pushes on one pad.
I think the second pad is just a bumper. I did check the solenoid and it's good; one thing I did notice is, there is no power to the wire going to the solenoid when I push the start button.

I guess that if both sides of those contacts are clean and making good contact, it's time to break out the meter and start testing to make sure you've got power going to where it's supposed to be going. Where it's intermittent, there's a bad ground or contact somewhere! Good luck.

 

[flash2002]

Ok, so I did some work this morning. I cleaned and checked the solenoid, and everything is good. When I push the starter button, I have power going to the solenoid, but not to ground. I did ground the solenoid on the frame, and the motor will turn over, but not start. The wire going to the ground side of the solenoid is yellow with a red stripe - does anybody know were this goes to? I think the bike won't start because this ground is not connecting to another part of the bike.

 

[DickB]

From the 2010 service manual - yellow/pink to the ECM.

 

[flash2002]

From the 2010 service manual - yellow/pink to the ECM.


View attachment 248846

Thanks for the diagram, you wouldn't happen to have the diagram from the front fuse box? I notice that the main relay doesn't go out when the bike is turned off. The relay stays on and get's hot until I pull it out, I don't think this is normal This is weird because the bike ran fine before.

 

[flash2002]

I can't remember if the head lights come on with the key on, the rear lights come on but not the head lights. The problem is it won't start, everything is good - battery, connection, fuse, relay, solenoid. When I try to start the bike it just clicks (the relay) but the solenoid doesn't click, altho there is juice on the positive side of the solenoid. If I ground the opposite side of the solenoid to ground and push the start button, it will turn over, but it won't start. I tried everything I could and no go. I need help?!

 

[LongIsland]

I don't know your start-up procedure since you don't provide your ride information. Regardless, here are some thoughts: Is the emergency cut-off switch off? Are you stepping on the brake pedal as you turn the ignition key? Are you following the correct steps for your ride as detailed in your operator's manual?

 

[flash2002]

I don't know your start-up procedure since you don't provide your ride information. Regardless, here are some thoughts: Is the emergency cut-off switch off?, Are you stepping on the brake pedal as you turn the ignition key? Are you following the correct steps for your ride as detailed in your operator's manual?

Sorry, it's a 2011 RT. It ran fine until I fixed the start switch, the switch does work (it clicks) but there's no head lights, and no start.

 

[Mikey]

It will not have lights till the motor is running I believe! And you are applying the brakes when you are trying to start it, right? If the bike's not in neutral, you have to have the foot brake on to override the safety, then when it starts, it will auto shift to neutral for you!

 

[flash2002]

Mikey, the bike is a standard. Thanks, I wasn't sure about the lights.

One more thing, is there a way to get a code even if the bike doesn't start?

 

[Mikey]

Is there a neutral safety switch? Just throwing it up in the air out loud!

 

[flash2002]

There is a switch on the clutch lever but that's ok, the bike is in neutral. What I get is power on the plus side of the solenoid when start switch is pushed but no negative on the minus side.

 

[Mikey]

I stand corrected about the lights; they do come on when the switch is turn on! I was working on a friends spyder and noticed that they did in fact come on. Knowing that these things need so much power for things to work well, for some reason I thought they didn't! Sorry! It's too bad you didn't know someone with BUDS.