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Which Krikit Tension Tool should I buy for 2017 RT SE6?

StevenQ

New member
After doing quite a bit of research, I find that there are several types of the Krikit belt tension tools. I have a 2017 Spyder RT SE6, and I can't seem to find out which Krikit tool to buy. I also just had the Front Sprocket Recall done, after waiting 2 1/2 months for the sprocket to come in. While driving into our driveway, I noticed a humming sound coming from the area of the new sprocket. I looked at the belt, which seemed to be quite tight. That is what started me looking into belt tensions, etc.
I found information for the Krikit up to 2015, and posts regarding 2020-2021 Spyders, but nothing in between. Any help would be greatly appreciated, as to what/which Krikit I should buy. Also, would a reading of 180 or so of belt tension probably work best for our 2017 RT SE6?
 
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I bought this one.

I marked it as without my ready readers it was tricky to read.
I bought it here in New Zealand and was amazed at the price difference between some vendors.
I also wrote the 160-180 on the side of the box.

KRIKIT 20220610_110534.jpg
 
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After doing quite a bit of research, I find that there are several types of the Krikit belt tension tools. I have a 2017 Spyder RT SE6, and I can't seem to find out which Krikit tool to buy. I also just had the Front Sprocket Recal done, after waiting 2 1/2 months for the sprocket to come in. While driving into our driveway, I noticed a humming sound coming from the area of the new sproket. I looked at the belt, which seemed to be quite tight. That is what started me looking into belt tensions, etc.
I found information for the Krikit up to 2015, and posts regarding 2020-2021 Spyders, but nothing in between. Any help would be greatly appreciated, as to what/which Krikit I should buy. Also, would a reading of 180 or so of belt tension probably work best for our 2017 RT SE6?

Buy the one BajaRon sells it is a good price, is the correct model, and I think He ships for free .... I believe it's a KritKit II ...... Mike :thumbup:

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...Krikit-II-Belt-Tension-Gauges&highlight=gates
 
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I bought one for my belt-dive bicycle and found it pretty worthless.

Himm.

Care to expand on 'found it pretty worthless'?

Just asking, because if you applied the mechanical version like this video below, well, I am not surprised at all.

As he makes the classic ID 10 T operator error.

Why?

He measured the tension almost on top of the front sprocket and not in the middle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XPjlecPNa2M


Here is how to correctly use the Krikit gauge.

Take particular note of it at the 40 second mark.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DZYfYFccAM
 
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I found it worthless because its range was so compressed you couldn't tell the actual tension within 30-50%. Each press seemed to vary somewhat as well. Remember, this was on my bicycle with Gates belt drive. I have a MSEE degree and know, generally, how to use tools and follow instructions.
 
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The Krikit II - 91132 is the correct tool. It works great. Use it all day long. You do need to get it on the upper belt at least fairly close to midway between the sprockets. Which can be a bit of a pain on some models. But doable on all Spyders. I don't find it hard to read. You just need to take the reading at the point where the indicator is flush with the tool edges. There is a wide 'Sweet Spot' on belt tension so it's not like you have to be within a pound or two, or even several pounds.

We recommend 140-180 for the 998 model Spyders. And 220-260 for the 1330 models. These are wheel on the ground numbers.

If you are doing it correctly, you will get virtually identical readings every time. I recommend doing this until you get at least 2 identical readings in a row. Once you get the hang of it, this usually only takes 2 tries. Slow, flat, centered (in both directions) and steady is the key.

This is the video I recommend (already posted above). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DZYfYFccAM This guy is a bit wobbly with his pressure, but even this amount should not give you an inaccurate reading.

Hope this helps.
 
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i use it. i will try 2 or 3 times to get same reading. great info from bajaron. have to learn the tool and technique
 
The Krikit II - 91132 is the correct tool. It works great. Use it all day long. You do need to get it on the upper belt at least fairly close to midway between the sprockets. Which can be a bit of a pain on some models. But doable on all Spyders. I don't find it hard to read. You just need to take the reading at the point where the indicator is flush with the tool edges. There is a wide 'Sweet Spot' on belt tension so it's not like you have to be within a pound or two, or even several pounds.

We recommend 140-180 for the 998 model Spyders. And 220-260 for the 1330 models. These are wheel on the ground numbers.

If you are doing it correctly, you will get virtually identical readings every time. I recommend doing this until you get at least 2 identical readings in a row. Once you get the hang of it, this usually only takes 2 tries. Slow, flat, centered (in both directions) and steady is the key.

This is the video I recommend (already posted above). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DZYfYFccAM This guy is a bit wobbly with his pressure, but even this amount should not give you an inaccurate reading.

Hope this helps.

I all new to this. My book said for my 2023 RT 1050 +/- 150 nm with wheel lifted. So it's 236 pounds once converted. But you said between 220-260 with wheel on the ground, am I mistaken? Don't you have more tension with wheel on the ground? So that looks pretty close to me, lifted or not, there is not much difference.
 
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