Back when the Spyder was first introduced BRP stated " you had to use FULL SYNTHETIC OIL " or the Spyder would self destruct :roflblack:...I am overstating this .......However now without any major modifications to the engine metallurgy you can safely use " BLENDED OIL " ...WTF ....was BRP yanking our chain then...or ...now ? ? ?.....................I'd really like to know your thoughts on this one.......Thanks Mike :thumbup:
BK, I don't think they were being devious, but perhaps just not so informed as we'd like to think engineers, and maybe the public relations types, should be. Many of us, too, used to firmly believe that synthetic oil is the only thing worth using.
More and more the oil company's have begun refining dino products to a much higher degree than just a few years ago, to the point that they almost match synthetic for longevity.
Indeed, much of our so called "synthetic" is highly refined dino oil with a base stock of synthetic additives. Theres not really many pure synthetic (that is, no dino oil involved) oils out there anymore. If you notice, more and more auto makers are leaning towards a dino/syn blend now, as is BRP.
To my way of thinking, based on lab tests I've done and many hundreds of tests others have done, nearly all motorcycles with shared gear/clutch boxes will significantly shear the oil down from a 40W in the first 2-3000 miles. As I mentioned in previous posts, how thin is too thin?
Most bike makers, other than BRP, allow use of 20w-50, at least in warm weather. This weight holds up very well to 4K or more without adverse shearing. I'd like to know why Rotax motors can't use the same weight oil.
As several posters have already said, if you want to be safe, change it every 3-4K miles. I expect I will do just that with filter changes every other time. I'm still in the testing phase, hoping to find an oil that I'm comfortable using for 4K. With my '11, I added some 20-50 to the 10-40 and got good results, but again, that's going against BRP recommendations and if you have an oil related problem, you might be up the creek. With 4 years warranty on the '14, I don't want to do anything to void that warranty.
I've never used BRP blended oil, but have used Castrol blend that some say makes the BRP oil. Don't have any facts to prove that tho. I did use, and test, the Castrol and it didn't work out very well at all. I'd like to see a lab test done on the BRP, especially by those who have run it for extended miles as suggested by BRP. Would be real curious to see what the viscosity is. Email Blackstone Lab and they will send you a free sample kit. Return it with $25 for the test.
BTW, I've done a lot to talking about viscosity, but the lab reports tell you a lot about how the motor is wearing and can give you a heads up if there appears to be wear issues, or water/fuel in the oil, etc. Viscosity is just one of many items checked.
