Replacing analog fuel/termp guages with amp meter/oil temp-pressure guages

[pickelhead]

I'm looking to replace my stock analog gauges with an amp meter and a oil temp/pressure gauge. Where do I get the new gauges and where do I find the EASY instructions to do this.

 

[Pennyrick]

I'm looking to replace my stock analog gauges with an amp meter and a oil temp/pressure gauge. Where do I get the new gauges and where do I find the EASY instructions to do this.

My gauges came from http://www.summitracing.com/ and are made by AutoMeter. Cost was somewhere in the $60 each range. Just remove the four bolts that hold the panel in place, twist the bars hard left and remove the panel. Disconnect the gauges and install the new ones.

Use the search engine on this site for info on how to install the ones you want. Oil pressure is the hardest and voltmeter is the easiest.

 

[Bob Denman]

I think that I'd like to replace my fuel gauge with one that gives the current pricing for a barrel of crude oil coming out of the Middle East.
The temperatuture gauge needs to go, and one that tells me what my resale value is would replace it in a heatbeat! :roflblack::joke::roflblack:

 

[pickelhead]

I think that I'd like to replace my fuel gauge with one that gives the current pricing for a barrel of crude oil coming out of the Middle East.
The temperatuture gauge needs to go, and one that tells me what my resale value is would replace it in a heatbeat! :roflblack::joke::roflblack:

The oil price meter would be a constant blur as the prices changed.

 

[Bob Denman]

I was figuring that if I could get a gauge with a needle/pointer in it; it would spin so fast that it would always provide a nice stream of cool air towards me... :shocked: :roflblack:

 

[cougar]

If you want to install an amp meter make sure it has a remote shunt sensor.
This means that the gauge can be on the dash and you don't have to route a heavy gauge wire up to it.
VDO makes a line of gauges for boats (OceanLine) and these work well.

Also, a voltmeter should be wired through a fuse and a relay directly across the battery teminals, that's the voltage that is important.
If you take it from the gauge wires it is the regulated voltage you are seeing, not quite the same thing especially if your battery begins to fail you can tell better.

JMHO, not carved in stone.

So the stock voltmeter is worthless??

 

[NancysToy]

So the stock voltmeter is worthless??

:hun: There is no stock voltmeter.

 

[Bob Denman]

:roflblack: Well that would sure make it worthless! :roflblack: :joke:

 

[cougar]

:hun: There is no stock voltmeter.

Duh. What was I thinking. So if a voltmeter is installed in place of say the temp gage, don't use the existing wiring?

 

[billythekidd]

I do understand the "correct" (from the battery) way to install the guage. I am a little confused as to how much difference this makes. When I got the guage before I installed it I connected it to the battery and it read 12.8 on and 14.6 running. I connected it to the 12v wire in the dash and it reads 12.8 on and 14.6 running. I would be happy to run the wire from the battery, but I cannot see the difference. Please explain this difference to me. thanks

I also was supprised at how much the fan on the radiator moves the volt reading. More than the fog lights, and more than the heated grips.


Willy

 

[pickelhead]

There is a 12V wire there.
And the voltmeter connected to it will read 12.7 to 14.5 V roughly.

My point is that you get a better picture of what you are monitoring by placing the voltmeter directly across the battery terminals through a fuse and relay.

If you just want another gauge and really don't care then then do it the simple way.

I used to know what a relay does and why it was important. I would be eternally grate if someone could refresh my memory. :bowdown:

 

[billythekidd]

Thank you for taking the time to reply. I do appreciate it.



Willy

 

[Pandy]

I used to know what a relay does and why it was important. I would be eternally grate if someone could refresh my memory. :bowdown:

A relay is a device that has 2 or more sets of contacts in a (now) sealed container. One set of contacts is actuated by a signal, say 12 volts from the ignition circuit,through a coil that pulls another set of contacts in place that will conduct current to another device. This has applications in the voltmeter rig in the case that through a relay that is activated by the ignition, when the ignition is off, the relay deenergized and the voltmeter or whatever is hooked up no longer draws from the battery, thus preventing excessive drain. When the ignition is on, the secondary contacts make, and you can read volts right at the battery. Really the most accurate place to look.

Totally unrelated, but remember when the high beam switch in cars and trucks was on the floorboard? Your foot pressing on the switch latched a set of contacts tied to a much heavier wire to power the high beams. Picture your foot as the power source for the relay and that might help. Maybe I said too much already. But one more thing, relays can also be used, in the case of foglights, to use a smaller current to switch a larger current so you don't have to have large conductors running all over the place thus reducing cost and complexity.

Being quiet now, Patrick

 

[Jeriatric]

I'm looking to replace my stock analog gauges with an amp meter and a oil temp/pressure gauge. Where do I get the new gauges and where do I find the EASY instructions to do this.

Recomended adapter for oil pressure gauge swap.

 

[pickelhead]

A relay is a device that has 2 or more sets of contacts in a (now) sealed container. One set of contacts is actuated by a signal, say 12 volts from the ignition circuit,through a coil that pulls another set of contacts in place that will conduct current to another device. This has applications in the voltmeter rig in the case that through a relay that is activated by the ignition, when the ignition is off, the relay deenergized and the voltmeter or whatever is hooked up no longer draws from the battery, thus preventing excessive drain. When the ignition is on, the secondary contacts make, and you can read volts right at the battery. Really the most accurate place to look.

Totally unrelated, but remember when the high beam switch in cars and trucks was on the floorboard? Your foot pressing on the switch latched a set of contacts tied to a much heavier wire to power the high beams. Picture your foot as the power source for the relay and that might help. Maybe I said too much already. But one more thing, relays can also be used, in the case of foglights, to use a smaller current to switch a larger current so you don't have to have large conductors running all over the place thus reducing cost and complexity.

Being quiet now, Patrick

Thanks, now I feel a little smarter. :bowdown: