Removing rear wheel

[Chasinsparks]

I received my Quad Trac 5 for the rear today, is there anything I should be aware of to remove the rear wheel, watched Bobs video and just trying to get all the education, tips and tricks before I tackle this job.

2016 RTL

I have a J&S Jack

2 36 MM Wrenches

Torque wrench

Locktite

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I don't know if He told you to un-bolt the Air Bag ARM on the left side of the swing arm and if you remove the rear shock bolt you will have enough slack to just take off the belt without touching the adjusters ….. don't put the jack on the shock bottom …. you can use the support tabs on either side though or the rear of the frame..... ( the tire is a Quatrac 5 ) ….. good luck … hyea:Mike

 

[Purple Guy]

Bob's video has it pretty well covered, good luck!

 

[Mazo EMS2]

Maybe snap a couple pics of everything before you take it apart....just for reference, but it's not a hard job

 

[Chasinsparks]

Thanks for the tips good catch on Quatrac damn auto correct..

 

[canamjhb]

You have all the tools you need...... Except two. First is patience. Go slow. The second is bandaids. To successfully complete any job requiring tools you must bleed at least once..... Jim

 

[Chasinsparks]

I agree, I have also put aside a long list of words to use as I see fit.

 

[PinkRosePetal]

I received my Quad Trac 5 for the rear today, is there anything I should be aware of to remove the rear wheel, watched Bobs video and just trying to get all the education, tips and tricks before I tackle this job.

2016 RTL

I have a J&S Jack

2 36 MM Wrenches

Torque wrench

Locktite

Yes, your grease seals will be wiped out, they always are because the spacer diameter is too big for the seal. Have two new seals and grease for them to hand.

A long extension and a 17mm socket to remove the caliper bolts without a fight.

This next bit no-one seems to believe because it's just too easy; to remove the belt you don't need any tools, yes, really! Chock the front wheels to prevent your Spyder moving, release the hand brake and jack up the rear. I use the shock mount because it's easy. Lie down alongside the belt side of your Spyder in a position so you can rotate the rear wheel downwards. Pull outwards on the top section of drive belt with your left hand and pull down on the tyre to rotate the wheel, the belt will walk a little sideways, continue to pull outwards and rotate the wheel and the belt will eventually walk off the pulley - it takes about three turns of the wheel.

I have no pictures of it because it didn't occur to me to post the info before removing a belt but it did when I was putting the belt back on so below is the picture sequence for replacing the belt. The advantages are; it's very easy, no removal of parts and no belt adjustment issues.

Use your long extension to remove/replace the caliper bolts, it will pass just under the muffler without issue.

When removing the caliper, do it very carefully so as not to move the brake pads, this will greatly facilitate refitting it because the pads will be wide enough apart to slide back over the disc - provided you don't bump them on the disc edge while refitting! Take care with that.

After removing the axle split pin, nut and washer, lower the wheel until it is just touching the ground, just enough to take the weight off the axle. A small tap on the right end of the axle using a drift of wood or aluminium, to prevent damage, will start it moving. If you've got the wheel at just the right pressure on the ground, you will be able to pull the axle out by hand. A pair of vise grips clipped onto the axle nut will give you a little more to hang on to. If it's seriously tight you've got it loaded up by the wheel weight - up or down.

Lift the bike high on the jack and roll the wheel out rearwards.

Reassembly is the reverse after cleaning everything up and fitting the new grease seals. Fill them and the space to the bearing with grease. It keeps water out of the bearing.

When rolling the wheel back in, it's easy to inadvertently dislodge the caliper mounting bracket. Take care.

Be sure you replaced the spacer in the rear of the pulley when you fitted it back to the wheel, and you need to get the pulley pretty much squeezed back into the cush rubbers before rolling the wheel in or you'll find it is still too wide to properly fit into the swing arm space.

Do take time and care to get the holes in the wheel and the swing arm lined up accurately then the axle will go back in with ease - be sure to have greased it a little.

Give yourself an easy time retorquing the axle by applying your torque wrench to the outer end of the axle (left side).

Finally, use no force, take time to align and fit and you won't need any swear words. Bleeding is not a requirement.

Here are the pics of refitting the belt, start by fitting it as far as you can from the bottom then push the wheel upwards - easy peasey...

 

[Chasinsparks]

Are you saying you were able to remove the tire without removing the shock bolt by rolling your belt off? "your grease seals will be wiped out" are you talking about the seal and o ring?

 

[PinkRosePetal]

Are you saying you were able to remove the tire without removing the shock bolt by rolling your belt off?

Yes.

"your grease seals will be wiped out" are you talking about the seal and o ring?

No. There are grease seals on each side of the wheel and spacers fit through them.

Here's a few pics below to show the problem and the last picture shows the modified spacer and it's seal These are the seals at just 350 miles, yes, you read it correctly, 350 miles!, you can clearly see the seal lips melted from the seals. The spacer diameter is far too large for the seals and they wipe out quickly. The fix is to turn down the outer diameter of the spacers to the correct size but, obviously, you need someone with a lathe to do this.

Just in case you fancy doing this, here's one more tip... the standard seals are an unusual internal diameter and the only source I've found is BRP at their inflated price, however, there is a commonly found seal with the correct outer diameter and thickness but a slightly reduced inner diameter of 35mm. If you get the spacers turned down you might as well take them down to 35mm and use the alternative seal which is readily available and cheap to buy. The seal is 55o/d x 35i/d x 9 thick. It has the advantage too of reduced rubbing speed (reduced heat to the seal rubber) because the diameter of the spacer is now smaller.

 

[Chasinsparks]

Thanks for the great explanation, seems like a lot to just put a new rear tire on but it is what it is and with all the enjoyment of riding it will be worth it.

 

[PinkRosePetal]

Yeh, it seems like a lot when it's written down but it's not really. Go carefully and it does take time but you'll be sure it's a better job than BRP did in the first instance. :thumbup:

 

[RICZ]

PinkRosePetal.....What model and year Spyder do you own? I'm wondering if that seal/bushing problem is common to all.

 

[PinkRosePetal]

PinkRosePetal.....What model and year Spyder do you own? I'm wondering if that seal/bushing problem is common to all.

I don't know whether it's common to all models but it is the case on the v-twin 2012 RT and all 1330 RTs. I'd be surprised if it didn't apply to all the models which use that same rear wheel system.

 

[PinkRosePetal]

If you don't attend to this problem and ride frequently in wet conditions, this is what will happen to your wheel bearings.

Year 2014, 1330RT, one year old.

The unprotected wheel adjuster blocks need to be fully greased for protection too. Pretty much everything BRP puts together on these bikes is assembled dry, it's mostly fine if you live in a dry climate or never ride in rain but for the rest of us it's simply a shortening of the vehicle life from the get go.

 

[AeroPilot]

Wow, interesting pics on the corrosion of the aluminum adjuster blocks. The wheel change tear down is a good time to clean and inspect for this kind of damage and thanks to a dry climate out west, I haven't seen this type of damage. I do clean the spacer bushings in solvent, wipe clean, inspect and regrease with a light skim of red bearing grease before reassembly as well and cleaning out the seal cavity and dabbing a little grease behind the seal. I used to grease the adjuster blocks but found that it seems to attract dirt and usually just clean, and regrease the axle and lightly touchup inside the axle washers and the surfaces of the swingarms.

Very nice pics and description for the range of conditions seen. My spacers and seals have lasted for 50-70,000 with this cleaning regimen, although I keep a spare Oring or two for the pulley to wheel recess, and always clean and lightly lube before reassembly. Bearings and seals should always be inspected.. just my experience in a drier climate.

 

[jcthorne]

Yes.

No. There are grease seals on each side of the wheel and spacers fit through them.

Here's a few pics below to show the problem and the last picture shows the modified spacer and it's seal These are the seals at just 350 miles, yes, you read it correctly, 350 miles!, you can clearly see the seal lips melted from the seals. The spacer diameter is far too large for the seals and they wipe out quickly. The fix is to turn down the outer diameter of the spacers to the correct size but, obviously, you need someone with a lathe to do this.

Just in case you fancy doing this, here's one more tip... the standard seals are an unusual internal diameter and the only source I've found is BRP at their inflated price, however, there is a commonly found seal with the correct outer diameter and thickness but a slightly reduced inner diameter of 35mm. If you get the spacers turned down you might as well take them down to 35mm and use the alternative seal which is readily available and cheap to buy. The seal is 55o/d x 35i/d x 9 thick. It has the advantage too of reduced rubbing speed (reduced heat to the seal rubber) because the diameter of the spacer is now smaller.

There is something going on with your bike. Those grease seals usually look like new when changing a tire. They only need replacement when pulling and pressing in new bearings. Even then its only because the seal is destroyed when removing it to do the bearings.

Also we find it much easier to remove the shock bolt and let the swing arm drop much further. Then the belt just slips off and it makes removal of the wheel and brake caliper much easier too. Either way works though.

 

[PinkRosePetal]

There is something going on with your bike.

What makes you think it's my bike? But you're right, there is something going on, the seals are being wiped out at very little use.

Those grease seals usually look like new when changing a tire.

I'd put money on them looking lovely and super smooth and polished - exactly how they shouldn't look. Grease/oil seals work by sliding very lightly onto the shaft which they're sealing, they seal because they have sharp edges and the pressure under that sharpness is high - kinda like a stiletto heel on a shoe able to damage a floor because of the concentration of pressure. Once that sealing edge is worn to approx 1mm wide the seal can be considered to be worn out.

On a Spyder the spacer wears the sealing lips almost completely off in a short time and leaves a wide polished surface which looks good so it is mistakenly thought that's how it is meant to be...it's not. See pictures below.

They only need replacement when pulling and pressing in new bearings. Even then it's only because the seal is destroyed when removing it to do the bearings.

I'd change my practise if I was you.

Also we find it much easier to remove the shock bolt and let the swing arm drop much further.

That's fine, your choice if you prefer to give yourself more work than necessary.

Then the belt just slips off and it makes removal of the wheel and brake caliper much easier too.

Fine again. Though I fail to see how the job becomes easier since the relationship of the swing arm to the wheel to the brake disc to the caliper stays the same no matter the angle of the swing arm.

Below is a couple of pics of seals showing the edges, more for folks who are reading this and are not familiar with them so they can understand what we're talking about. In the stack of seals they do appear to have a wide flat as the second lip but it's an optical illusion, the flat area is actually angled approximately 45 degrees. Look carefully at the other picture. There are two lips per seal, an outer wiper lip and an inner sealing lip. It's good practice to fill this space between the lips with lubricant so they never run dry on the spacer.

On a Spyder, I recommend filling the cavity between the seal and the bearing completely as a precaution to prevent water ingress.

 

[Chasinsparks]

Interesting for sure. I only have 2800 miles on my bike just want to change the Kendra in for a vredestein quatrac 5 205/65r15. Maybe I should see if the dealer would do it seems if bearings are wearing out that quickly it would be covered under the warranty.,

 

[Highwayman2013]

I lived in Pennsylvania and my adjusters bearing and seal were fine on my 2012 RT when the tire was changed. The pictures shown looks like something that would happen if the bike was ridden in the winter with rock salt on the roads.