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Another Rear Wheel Bearing question..... The BIG FUNKY NUT!

Not yet. The search continues.

Although, the Lamonster Tech I spoke with earlier suggested I just ask the Tech changing out the tire, assuming it's a Spyder Tech of course.

I agree, after watching the youtube video, and how the Nut came off rather easily, it can't be Torqued too much. So hopefully I can get the specs when I have the new tire mounted. If not, I may just bite the bullet and let them do the bearing check / and replace if needed.

Maybe someone else would also know from previous bearing replacements. I'm finding it's a long shot, but worth a try.

I do believe this is what you are looking for! :2thumbs: I found it in the Drive System section of my 2014 RT Service Manual.

Rear wheel bearing retaining nut.jpg
 
I do believe this is what you are looking for! :2thumbs: I found it in the Drive System section of my 2014 RT Service Manual.

View attachment 194456

Yes Sir, Thank you.....that is the culprit! Mystery solved.:2thumbs:

Ironically, I was looking at 2014 Service Manuals online today, thinking YEP, I definitely need one. I love being a DIYer, when I can. My previous ride was a 2012 Honda 600 Silver Wing Trike, and I enjoyed tinkering with that as well. Only difference was.... I had a Service Manual.

Thank you once again....... you are the man! :bowdown:


p.s. Does it by chance state what tool is used for removing that Nut? Just curious if it does.
 
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I made a wrench for that nut the last time I had a wheel apart. I just used a piece of 1/4 plate steel - cut to fit into opposite grooves, welded to a piece of 1/2 square bar. The bar is maybe 8” long so a gentle snug won’t apply too much torque. Here’s a couple photos:
 

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Ironically, I was looking at 2014 Service Manuals online today, thinking YEP, I definitely need one.
p.s. Does it by chance state what tool is used for removing that Nut? Just curious if it does.
The great feeling you get by being able to refer to a service manual is second only to that from the activity you enjoy with a woman! Go to www.canammanuals.com.

No tool is mentioned in the 2014 manual, but it is shown in the 2013 manual! This is just one example of many inconsistencies that exist in BRP's documentations, within a specific document and between successive years of documents.

The tool MSRP is $68.99 but you probably can't find one! I would try using a Channellock pliers. Just drop the jaws into the notches.

Rear wheel bearing retaining nut tool.jpg
 
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.......

The tool MSRP is $68.99 but you probably can't find one! I would try using a Channellock pliers. Just drop the jaws into the notches.

....

Or you could try a few gentle taps with a a softish drift to loosen it enough to get it out; and a few taps the other way to tighten it up enough after putting it back in. ;) . But I'd suggest NOT using a cold chisel like that! :p
 
If it only needs 15 ft/lbs torque a large set of needle nose pliers would probably work.
 
The great feeling you get by being able to refer to a service manual is second only to that from the activity you enjoy with a woman! Go to www.canammanuals.com.

No tool is mentioned in the 2014 manual, but it is shown in the 2013 manual! This is just one example of many inconsistencies that exist in BRP's documentations, within a specific document and between successive years of documents.

The tool MSRP is $68.99 but you probably can't find one! I would try using a Channellock pliers. Just drop the jaws into the notches.

View attachment 194459

Idaho, Thanks for the diagrams, and the canam manual link. Made sure I saved them all for future reference.

I did see on ebay there was such a tool listed, but I think for the price I will use my own ingenuity and invent one. Your channel lock suggestion sounds like it would work as well. I was thinking a piece of cross steel inserted across the slots and a Crescent Wrench. Seeing the nut is torqued so low it wouldn't take much effort to remove and reinstall it.


Glad to see the ingenuity of creative ideas being mentioned here. It's amazing what we can accomplish and invent when we want to save some bucks for ourselves! :thumbup: Along with your diagrams, those diagrams helped many of us, I'm sure.

Thanks again.
 
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I made a wrench for that nut the last time I had a wheel apart. I just used a piece of 1/4 plate steel - cut to fit into opposite grooves, welded to a piece of 1/2 square bar. The bar is maybe 8” long so a gentle snug won’t apply too much torque. Here’s a couple photos:


Great idea! This is something similar to Spyder Stuff's invention he made in his video ( @ approx 4:32 ) with the exception he welded a Bolt onto his steel piece to be able to use a ratchet. Such ingenuity!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juVK1ogc1BA&t=306s

Both great ideas.
 
Good Afternoon everyone. Just wanted to take a moment and Thank everyone for their contributions, input, and participation with my quest to find the answer to this Funky Nut.

Your input was invaluable :bowdown:, and we actually found out what, and how, to tackle ( with a little ingenuity ) this culprit should any of us need to.

Once again......... Thank You, All. Great Work! :thumbup:
 
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Good Afternoon everyone. Just wanted to take a moment and Thank everyone for their input and participation with my quest to find the answer to this Funky Nut.

Your input was invaluable :bowdown:, and we actually found out what, and how, to tackle ( with a little ingenuity ) this culprit should any of us need to.

Once again......... Thank You, All. Great Work! :thumbup:

You're welcome! :thumbup:
 
In situation like this, I have used a piece of steel flatstock cut to fit and applied a large Crescent Wrench for twisting. Cheap and easy - that's me.
 
In situation like this, I have used a piece of steel flatstock cut to fit and applied a large Crescent Wrench for twisting. Cheap and easy - that's me.

Another "Cheap and Easy" here as well :thumbup:. That's exactly the method I was thinking myself. Keep it simple!
 
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