Hello, I have a 2021 Spyder RTL and am changing the rear tire to a Vredestein 5. I do not have anyway to balance myself. Found no alignment marks to align with valve stem? The last bike I had, 2020 F3, rear tire took no weights, tire was a Kenda Canine! With a better quality tire, can I get away with just mounting and running as is? Comments/ suggestions Appreciated!
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Rear tire balancing? How crucial?
- Thread starter Don60
- Start date
How crucial is rear tire balancing?? If the tire's a good quality tire (like the Vredestein's are) without any red or yellow paint dots on it, chances are it's pretty well made with 'good balance characteristics' in mind anyway, so doing an more/extra balancing is probably not all that crucial at all. 
BUT, just to be sure, while you've got the wheel off the rear & once the tire is off the rim, carefully check the rim's outer bead edges and all the bits that are usually covered by the tire. There just might be marks, indents, or embossed dots on the rim itself to show its heaviest spot (if those're gonna be there, they are usually vaguely opposite the valve stem hole...
) or the point of maximum radial run-out; and IF you've got anything like that on the rim, then it'll probably be a good idea to find a local motorcycle tire fitter or someone who CAN do a balance, even if it's just a rudimentary thing! Or you might want to invest in some balance beads or goop etc (not really my preferred option! :sour
:dontknow:
Seriously tho, with a single rear wheel that's held by a thru axle and the swingarm on each side & a good quality tire, there's a better than 'just good' chance that you won't need any additional balancing of the wheel assembly, especially if your previous rim/tire assy didn't have any great imbalance problems! And even if the rim DID have a bunch of weights on it with the OE Kenda fitted, it's most likely that those balance weights were necessary because of the Kenda tire - altho there have been a few instances of BRP rims being dodgy too... just no-where near as many as there's been of dodgy Kendas!! :banghead:
However, if you're capable of taking the wheel off & the rim & tire have no special balance marks or dots on them, then there's a better'n very good chance you'll actually be more than capable of working out if you need anything more in the way of a suitable balance yourself anyway, even if it is a bit rudimentary! You'll only need the axle tube to spin the wheel on; a few blocks of wood or bricks to stack up high enough, or axle stands to hold the axle either side of the bearings/sprocket/disc etc in order to spin the wheel on while it's held up in it's mounted position - if you spin it a few times or more and it never settles in exactly the same spot/orientation, then it's going to be telling you it's pretty reasonably balanced anyway! (If it won't spin freely like that, check & replace the axle bearings! :lecturef_smilie: ) And if you also push something solid up close to but not quite touching the edge of the tire tread while you're spinning the wheel, then keep an eye out for any variations in the gap between that 'something' and the edge of the tread, no or minimal change in the gap is a strong indication that there's little if any run-out too! :thumbup: So if the wheel stops spinning in random spots every time & there's no great gap variation while it's spinning, then given the single rear wheel & the way that wheel is held by the swing arm teamed with the lack of balance dots/indicators on the quality tire &/or the rim, there's a pretty good likelihood that your wheel is quite well balanced and you won't ever notice or need any more balancing than that!
hyea:
Only if you've gone for the cheapest or least known brand of tire you can find &/or one that's not made by a recognised/reputable tire manufacturer and it has no balance or run-out dots on it, all bets are off & you're on your own! :yikes: All the above only applies to a quality tire made by a recognised & reputable manufacturer! :cheers:
BUT, just to be sure, while you've got the wheel off the rear & once the tire is off the rim, carefully check the rim's outer bead edges and all the bits that are usually covered by the tire. There just might be marks, indents, or embossed dots on the rim itself to show its heaviest spot (if those're gonna be there, they are usually vaguely opposite the valve stem hole...
) or the point of maximum radial run-out; and IF you've got anything like that on the rim, then it'll probably be a good idea to find a local motorcycle tire fitter or someone who CAN do a balance, even if it's just a rudimentary thing! Or you might want to invest in some balance beads or goop etc (not really my preferred option! :sour :dontknow:Seriously tho, with a single rear wheel that's held by a thru axle and the swingarm on each side & a good quality tire, there's a better than 'just good' chance that you won't need any additional balancing of the wheel assembly, especially if your previous rim/tire assy didn't have any great imbalance problems! And even if the rim DID have a bunch of weights on it with the OE Kenda fitted, it's most likely that those balance weights were necessary because of the Kenda tire - altho there have been a few instances of BRP rims being dodgy too... just no-where near as many as there's been of dodgy Kendas!! :banghead:
However, if you're capable of taking the wheel off & the rim & tire have no special balance marks or dots on them, then there's a better'n very good chance you'll actually be more than capable of working out if you need anything more in the way of a suitable balance yourself anyway, even if it is a bit rudimentary! You'll only need the axle tube to spin the wheel on; a few blocks of wood or bricks to stack up high enough, or axle stands to hold the axle either side of the bearings/sprocket/disc etc in order to spin the wheel on while it's held up in it's mounted position - if you spin it a few times or more and it never settles in exactly the same spot/orientation, then it's going to be telling you it's pretty reasonably balanced anyway! (If it won't spin freely like that, check & replace the axle bearings! :lecturef_smilie: ) And if you also push something solid up close to but not quite touching the edge of the tire tread while you're spinning the wheel, then keep an eye out for any variations in the gap between that 'something' and the edge of the tread, no or minimal change in the gap is a strong indication that there's little if any run-out too! :thumbup: So if the wheel stops spinning in random spots every time & there's no great gap variation while it's spinning, then given the single rear wheel & the way that wheel is held by the swing arm teamed with the lack of balance dots/indicators on the quality tire &/or the rim, there's a pretty good likelihood that your wheel is quite well balanced and you won't ever notice or need any more balancing than that!
hyea: Only if you've gone for the cheapest or least known brand of tire you can find &/or one that's not made by a recognised/reputable tire manufacturer and it has no balance or run-out dots on it, all bets are off & you're on your own! :yikes: All the above only applies to a quality tire made by a recognised & reputable manufacturer! :cheers:
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
How crucial is rear tire balancing?? If the tire's a good quality tire (like the Vredestein's are) without any red or yellow paint dots on it, chances are it's pretty well made with 'good balance characteristics' in mind anyway, so doing an more/extra balancing is probably not all that crucial at all.
BUT, just to be sure, while you've got the wheel off the rear & once the tire is off the rim, carefully check the rim's outer bead edges and all the bits that are usually covered by the tire. There just might be marks, indents, or embossed dots on the rim itself to show its heaviest spot (if those're gonna be there, they are usually vaguely opposite the valve stem hole...
Seriously tho, with a single rear wheel that's held by a thru axle and the swingarm on each side & a good quality tire, there's a better than 'just good' chance that you won't need any additional balancing of the wheel assembly, especially if your previous rim/tire assy didn't have any great imbalance problems! And even if the rim DID have a bunch of weights on it with the OE Kenda fitted, it's most likely that those balance weights were necessary because of the Kenda tire - altho there have been a few instances of BRP rims being dodgy too... just no-where near as many as there's been of dodgy Kendas!! :banghead:
However, if you're capable of taking the wheel off & the rim & tire have no special balance marks or dots on them, then there's a better'n very good chance you'll actually be more than capable of working out if you need anything more in the way of a suitable balance yourself anyway, even if it is a bit rudimentary! You'll only need the axle tube to spin the wheel on; a few blocks of wood or bricks to stack up high enough, or axle stands to hold the axle either side of the bearings/sprocket/disc etc in order to spin the wheel on while it's held up in it's mounted position - if you spin it a few times or more and it never settles in exactly the same spot/orientation, then it's going to be telling you it's pretty reasonably balanced anyway! (If it won't spin freely like that, check & replace the axle bearings! :lecturef_smilie: ) And if you also push something solid up close to but not quite touching the edge of the tire tread while you're spinning the wheel, then keep an eye out for any variations in the gap between that 'something' and the edge of the tread, no or minimal change in the gap is a strong indication that there's little if any run-out too! :thumbup: So if the wheel stops spinning in random spots every time & there's no great gap variation while it's spinning, then given the single rear wheel & the way that wheel is held by the swing arm teamed with the lack of balance dots/indicators on the quality tire &/or the rim, there's a pretty good likelihood that your wheel is quite well balanced and you won't ever notice or need any more balancing than that!
Only if you've gone for the cheapest or least known brand of tire you can find &/or one that's not made by a recognised/reputable tire manufacturer and it has no balance or run-out dots on it, all bets are off & you're on your own! :yikes: All the above only applies to a quality tire made by a recognised & reputable manufacturer! :cheers:
I couldn't have said it better myself ...... In the past I ONLY balanced my first REAR tire swap to an Auto tire done 6 more and didn't balance any of those ..... Mike :thumbup:
RudyB
New member
Simple solution Centramatic wheel balancer’s
shakin_jake
Member
Wanted to comment on what Peter said about replacing the wheel bearings. Again, Peter said if the bearings wont spin freely, replace. All well and good but a bit more precisely, when you place your hand, fingers onto the wheel bearing race and you turn it, you should feel absolutely no grittiness. The bearing should move freely. If you’re unsure what this should feel like, put your hands on a brand spanking new bearing and turn it. That’s how the bearing in your wheel should feel. Any hint of stubbornness (not wanting to spin freely) warrants replacement
This inspection needs to be done every tire replacement which leads one to ask, how difficult is it to replace a wheel bearing? Perhaps better to ask, how easy is it to replace a wheel bearing? This is actually a very simple task. All that’s needed is a suitable drift of substantial length (usually the longer the better) (foot and a half) and a heavy hammer to beat/tap the bearing out. Place the drift on the inner race and tap away. Installation is as easy as removal. You can use the old bearing placed on top of the new bearing to drive it in place. Some (most) will place the new bearing in a freezer in order for the bearing to contract a bit to ease installation. How long you freeze your bearing is up to you. If not in a hurry, overnight is best. You Tube is your friend here if you’ve never done this before. Monkey see, monkey do. This is not rocket science
Disclaimer- Others may have better and different ideas!
Best,
Jake
Reddick Fla.
Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while
This inspection needs to be done every tire replacement which leads one to ask, how difficult is it to replace a wheel bearing? Perhaps better to ask, how easy is it to replace a wheel bearing? This is actually a very simple task. All that’s needed is a suitable drift of substantial length (usually the longer the better) (foot and a half) and a heavy hammer to beat/tap the bearing out. Place the drift on the inner race and tap away. Installation is as easy as removal. You can use the old bearing placed on top of the new bearing to drive it in place. Some (most) will place the new bearing in a freezer in order for the bearing to contract a bit to ease installation. How long you freeze your bearing is up to you. If not in a hurry, overnight is best. You Tube is your friend here if you’ve never done this before. Monkey see, monkey do. This is not rocket science
Disclaimer- Others may have better and different ideas!
Best,
Jake
Reddick Fla.
Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while
Plus 1 on the Centramatic wheel balancers, I have them on all three wheels of our 2020 RTL. They do the job! We use this type balancer on our semi tractors & dump trucks, constantly rebalancing the tires as they wear down. Same idea as the balancing beads,
but its a 1 time expense and no hassle for years of use. "your ball, your call" ( I do my own tire changing)
.....:thumbup:.....Bill
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BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
Only somewhat " simple " .... my method has worked, for 6 tires and is even simpler .... ANNNNNNNNNNNNND costs " Zero " ...... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:
Partzman23
Member
Rear tire balance
I agree with Blueknight911 I installed the General Altimax RT43 tire on the rear of my Spyder. Did not balance and have had no
problems what so ever after approx 9000 miles. Just be sure to remove any old weights on the wheel.
Good luck ryde safe and enjoy
Artie
I agree with Blueknight911 I installed the General Altimax RT43 tire on the rear of my Spyder. Did not balance and have had no
problems what so ever after approx 9000 miles. Just be sure to remove any old weights on the wheel.
Good luck ryde safe and enjoy
Artie
RudyB; yes Centramatic balancers are great, but expensive! Have two on the front, but did not get one for the rear! My bad decision at the time! We will try this tire as is, if I find it to be a problem, will have to suck it up and order the rear balancer for the next rear tire. Thanks for your input.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
So did you have to ADD any weights ???? ... if so how much ???? ...thanks Mike :thumbup:
Gwolf
Well-known member
Not much......... added 1/2 oz total of the stick on weights and it stopped all movement on the balance stand.
It was one of the Kumho 205/50-15 that I bought off Amazon.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
wow that's not much ..... Auto tires are getting better and better ...... Mike .....Thanks
Okay, installed the rear Vredestein on my 2021 RTL today. Learned a lot, found that installing belt before you get axle in caused me a bunch of time! Should have walked belt on like I watched on a video, but finally got axle in. Now, my concern is about the axle being straight? Does it have much movement? I need to adjust the belt alignment tomorrow, off about three cards to the outside! Was perfect before I replaced tire! Definitely understand why they charge so much for this job!
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
I have changed my rear tires a few times ..... taking out the swing arm bolt first will allow the adjusters to remain EXACTLY the way they were prior to touching the Spyder .... "axle being straight" ??? ... I don't believe you could have bent it .... if you touched the adjusters then the axle position could have changed .... and that will need to corrected. .... good luck ... Mike :thumbup:
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BLUEKNIGHT911; I put duck tape on the end caps/adjusters to hold them in place before removing the axle. Agree with not bending axle, only had one hole for cotter pin, drilled it through, funny new bike did not have it installed? Anyway, going to loosen nut and use a 2x4 to push left side of axle forward to align belt, thinking it moved back as I was tightening it yesterday! This should move belt closer to the flang where it needs to be. Thanks for your thoughts…
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EdMat
Well-known member
I think you have that backwards. Pushing forward on the left side will cause the belt to run further to the outside.
Also, if your belt tension is where you want it to be, use the right side to adjust the tracking. Doing it that way will have less effect on belt tension.
K80Shooter
New member
Loosen it back up then snug it up, lower to the ground then tighten. It will stay in place then. Also while you have it in the air take a rubber mallet (or a hammer and 2x4) and bump the adjusters forward.
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