Rear tire balancing? How crucial?

[Don60]

Is there a way to visually make sure the axle is straight? Maybe a way to measure each side from axle to end caps? Wish they had adjusters with marks like many other manufacturers do! Thanks for any input, just wanting to make sure axle is straight! My OCD working against me!

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Is there a way to visually make sure the axle is straight? Maybe a way to measure each side from axle to end caps? Wish they had adjusters with marks like many other manufacturers do! Thanks for any input, just wanting to make sure axle is straight! My OCD working against me!

The BELT will tell if the axle's straight ...... there is direct relationship to both. ..... the Adjusters will alter the position of the wheel/tire via the position of the Axle .... by removing the swingarm bolt FIRST .... the adjusters will REMAIN where they were before you began removing the wheel ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Gwolf]

This is how I tighten the rear axle. The adjusters are never moved when the axle is pulled. I tighten the straps on both sides of the rear tire, front of straps over the cross member with lower shock/spring mount. Once the entire assembly is pulled forward so it is once again up against the adjusters, then tighten the axle before removing the straps. The axle will go right back to the exact same adjustment it held before removing it. All you have to do is check the belt tension and the belt tracking on the pulley. If it was correct when you pulled the axle, it should still be correct after you re-tighten the axle. You don't need to bump anything around or pry on anything. Just use the strap tension to pull the assembly back up against the adjusters. You don't need real large straps. Those are just the ones I had handy.

 

[Peter Aawen]

This is how I tighten the rear axle. The adjusters are never moved when the axle is pulled. I tighten the straps on both sides of the rear tire, front of straps over the cross member with lower shock/spring mount. Once the entire assembly is pulled forward so it is once again up against the adjusters, then tighten the axle before removing the straps. The axle will go right back to the exact same adjustment it held before removing it. All you have to do is check the belt tension and the belt tracking on the pulley. If it was correct when you pulled the axle, it should still be correct after you re-tighten the axle. You don't need to bump anything around or pry on anything. Just use the strap tension to pull the assembly back up against the adjusters. You don't need real large straps. Those are just the ones I had handy.

Can't see the pics! It looks like the remote images you tried to load are too large Gwolf :sour:

Maybe when you're posting a reply, you could scroll down a bit past the text field & try using 'Manage Attachments' to upload the image files instead of trying to attach/insert them?!? :dontknow:

 

[Gwolf]

Sorry about that, Peter. The images are on my server space under my personal Domain. Most of the forums prefer remote links to save their server space. I sometimes forget that people use cell phones to surf the net, I use a laptop.

The pics should be smaller on my original post now. I uploaded them as attachments.

 

[Don60]

Thanks for everyone’s reply’s! Will try and get back to bike today and adjust the belt and torque axle nut to specs! Snowed again here in Western NM, so no riding for a couple of days!

Ok, adding to post, was able to loosen axle and adjust belt. Had rear tire off the ground and stable, started bike and put in first gear to check alignment, worked great! Placed a chock block at rear of tire to force tire forward, tightened axle nut to specs (wow, 166lbs takes some work ) issue came after I restarted bike to move it, VSS, Limp Home and Brake failure lights all came on? Moved bike to its parking place, shut off bike, pulled key and waited a few minutes, restarted bike, all lights were gone?
Any ideas of what I did to cause this issue, could not take bike out due to snow! Hopefully just a momentary glitch? Will follow up after I get it out for a ride.

 

[davev1pa]

That’s normal to have idiot lights after rear tire change.. happened on both my two rears. There’s several sensors you disturb while doing the change.

 

[shakin_jake]

Understood the Vredsteins are the preferred front tire replacements. How about the rear? Using Vredstein out back too? TIA!


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
It’s never too late to have a happy childhood

 

[Partzman23]

Thanks for everyone’s reply’s! Will try and get back to bike today and adjust the belt and torque axle nut to specs! Snowed again here in Western NM, so no riding for a couple of days!

Ok, adding to post, was able to loosen axle and adjust belt. Had rear tire off the ground and stable, started bike and put in first gear to check alignment, worked great! Placed a chock block at rear of tire to force tire forward, tightened axle nut to specs (wow, 166lbs takes some work ) issue came after I restarted bike to move it, VSS, Limp Home and Brake failure lights all came on? Moved bike to its parking place, shut off bike, pulled key and waited a few minutes, restarted bike, all lights were gone?
Any ideas of what I did to cause this issue, could not take bike out due to snow! Hopefully just a momentary glitch? Will follow up after I get it out for a ride.

These happened because you ran the Spyder with the back tire off the ground. The NANNY doesn't know you had it off the ground just that the back tire is under power and the front tires are not moving. Nothing to worry about after all is cleared
Hope this helps you understand why you got the messages.
Ryde safe and enjoy

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Understood the Vredsteins are the preferred front tire replacements. How about the rear? Using Vredstein out back too? TIA!


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
It’s never too late to have a happy childhood ��

Yes they have Vredestein's in sizes that will work .... however the new Michelien Cross Climate is an Excellent choice also. Lots of folks use the Kumho Ectsa, however there have many, many reports here that they start losing WET traction at about their 1/2 life 13 to 15,000 mi. ..... your choice .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

These happened because you ran the Spyder with the back tire off the ground. The NANNY doesn't know you had it off the ground just that the back tire is under power and the front tires are not moving. Nothing to worry about after all is cleared
Hope this helps you understand why you got the messages.
Ryde safe and enjoy

:agree: ... this absolutely normal ... the Spyder's computer systems are extremely sensitive, however they are smart enough to correct themselves without any dealer / BUDS input .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[shakin_jake]

Yes they have Vredestein's in sizes that will work .... however the Altimax & the new Michelien Cross Climate are Excellent choices also. Lots of folks use the Kumho Ectsa, however there have many, many reports here that they start losing WET traction at about their 1/2 life 13 to 15,000 mi. ..... your choice .... Mike :thumbup:

~~~ thanks Mike! The reason I ask, thought I read (here on this forum, somewhere) that the Altimax’s rear tire that some run tends to be a higher mileage tire (harder compound vs. the softer Vredstein which is a snow tire), which lead me to wonder if many actually run the Vredstein in the back too




Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
“Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind.” Dr. Seuss

 

[Don60]

Thanks Partzman23 and BLUEKNIGHT911; I had the bike out today, all lights reset! Makes sense about having rear tire up and running while front setting still. All good to enjoy the warmer weather…

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

~~~ thanks Mike! The reason I ask, thought I read (here on this forum, somewhere) that the Altimax’s rear tire that some run tends to be a higher mileage tire (harder compound vs. the softer Vredstein which is a snow tire), which lead me to wonder if many actually run the Vredstein in the back too




Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
“Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind.” Dr. Seuss

You referring to hard vs, softer compounds just prompted me to re-check them .... I discovered that the Altimax RT43 no longer has all the Excellent ratings it did a few years ago .... mavbe the fact that the UTOG is now listed at 600 .... it used to be 400 ... I recall when tire rack sold a V rated Altimax RT 43's they had a better rating than the normal " T " or " H " version. ..... I'm now taking it off my list of " best Spyder tires ". ...... thanks ... Mike ..... either Altimax is still better than the Kumho " Ecsta " ..... :thumbup: .......PS just to clarify - the Vredestein Quatrac ( new model ) or the old Q-5 are NOT snow tires ....they are an ALL-Season tire but with a " WINTER " tire rating ..... best of both worlds

 

[SNOOPY]

Yes they have Vredestein's in sizes that will work .... however the new Michelien Cross Climate is an Excellent choice also. Lots of folks use the Kumho Ectsa, however there have many, many reports here that they start losing WET traction at about their 1/2 life 13 to 15,000 mi. ..... your choice .... Mike :thumbup:

Very true about the Ecstas w some age, but a great traction tire before that.

.

 

[shakin_jake]

You referring to hard vs, softer compounds just prompted me to re-check them .... I discovered that the Altimax RT43 no longer has all the Excellent ratings it did a few years ago .... mavbe the fact that the UTOG is now listed at 600 .... it used to be 400 ... I recall when tire rack sold a V rated Altimax RT 43's they had a better rating than the normal " T " or " H " version. ..... I'm now taking it off my list of " best Spyder tires ". ...... thanks ... Mike ..... either Altimax is still better than the Kumho " Ecsta " ..... :thumbup: .......PS just to clarify - the Vredestein Quatrac ( new model ) or the old Q-5 are NOT snow tires ....they are an ALL-Season tire but with a " WINTER " tire rating ..... best of both worlds

~~~i wont be buying tires anytime soon but when i do it will be the VREDSTEINS on all three corners. Just checked my odometer yesterday as i rode my Spyder into Ocala. Only 1800 miles since i bought the RT early August last year. To say i ride infrequently is an understatement. This darn farm I live on and work just doesn’t allow me much in the way of saddle time, and what with the string straight roads i normally ride, the OEM Kendas work well enough that I can’t justify replacing until they wear appreciably, but when they do (i figger the rear will be the first to go) Im installing a Vredstein

At the risk of getting off topic slightly, ive been intrigued with the Centramatic wheel balancers after this company was mentioned recently. Although i have at least one reliable balancing rig, that can get the job done, the Centramtic solution looks extremely attractive


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
Forever Young

 

[Mikey]

If you have the money to throw down at it will work! But what Mike and a few others have said, I think I would just mount and fly just to see if what they say is true first, you can always balance after as long as you don't half wear them out!

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

~~~i wont be buying tires anytime soon but when i do it will be the VREDSTEINS on all three corners. Just checked my odometer yesterday as i rode my Spyder into Ocala. Only 1800 miles since i bought the RT early August last year. To say i ride infrequently is an understatement. This darn farm I live on and work just doesn’t allow me much in the way of saddle time, and what with the string straight roads i normally ride, the OEM Kendas work well enough that I can’t justify replacing until they wear appreciably, but when they do (i figger the rear will be the first to go) Im installing a Vredstein

At the risk of getting off topic slightly, ive been intrigued with the Centramatic wheel balancers after this company was mentioned recently. Although i have at least one reliable balancing rig, that can get the job done, the Centramtic solution looks extremely attractive


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
Forever Young

I balance my fronts , but both Peter and I feel an AUTO tire on REAR doesn't need it ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[SkipH]

Try balancing beads. They worked on my Honda 1800 front and rear.

 

[thereverend]

https://www.harborfreight.com/media...32f9638515cd199dd0f9238da/i/m/image_18703.jpg