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Radio reception good when engine off - Engine running, not so much! Any ideas?
- Thread starter fzflyer
- Start date
Ex-Rocket
Well-known member
:agree: I had LED headlight and fog lights installed on my 2017 F3 Limited by Spyderpops. My radio was just fine when the fog lights were turned off but as soon as I turned the fog lights on, I had static. Called Spyderpops and hadn't heard of that problem but after about a week I received a package in the mail with a cure and at NO CHARGE. I installed the parts that were shipped to me and that cured the problem with static on the radio when fog lights were turned on. I believe if memory serves me right the fix was from Lamonster Garage.
Mazo EMS2
Active member
YUP, some LED's play havoc with radio signal
DGoebel
Well-known member
fzflyer, Plus as you check though all these suggestions, you're likely to be removing and resetting some grounds, and insuring that everything is tightened properly. If your LED's were from Lamonster, you might want to check with him about the fix that Ex-Rocket mentioned.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
Not ALL LED headlights are well made .... and can & will cause radio interference ..... Price doesn't seem to be the equalizer either I've spent much and got little .... and spent little and got much ..... JMHO .... Mike :thumbup:
canamjhb
Well-known member
If you find all the ground wires are properly connected and not all gooped up, then you may need to install a Ground Loop Isolator for your radio. That isolator prevents grounds from other things on your bike from getting to and interfering with your radio signal. Think of it as a "one-way" device. Grounding goes out but nothing flows back in. Good luck..... Jim
fzflyer
New member
Update and next steps
As I dig into this and try to understand and isolate the issue, I went back and reviewed what lights are illuminated during the Ignition “on” mode. This is when radio reception is good. I was slightly surprised to find that the only lights that did not illuminate in this mode were the LED headlights and also the LED daytime running lights/fog lights. I could even illuminate the TricLED Chaser RGB LED Adjustable Night Rider Light (manufacturer, TricLED) via dedicated remote. Radio reception remained good with the Chaser Night Rider Light on. From this, I assume I can rule out Chaser Night Rider Light, but cannot rule out the headlights or DRL/fog lights as contributing factors.
This leads to another, secondary, question. How does one put ignition in “accessory” mode? Where only radio and instrument panel is powered and all remaining lights are off? I have tried “hold the Mode button after turning ignition off” suggestion, however no luck with this machine. I will return to this concern after original issue is resolved
.
A few notes: I found original boxes from previous owner. Both H4-T2 Series LED Headlights (P/N: SM6313, manufacturer assumed TricLED, however I cannot find this P/N on SlingMod website. New T2 Series Headlights P/N: SM6454…hmmm :lecturef_smilie
and Arc LED DRL/Fog lights (P/N: SM3224, manufacturer TricLED) we’re purchased from SlingMods. I might need to contact SM for clarity…
Next steps:
Isolate and remove headlights and DRL/fog lights individually/pair from system and see if that improves radio reception with engine running.
Investigate rear top case removal via LinQ and check ground wires are properly attached and with good conduction.
Investigate Ground Loop Isolator as per canamjhb suggestion.
Other than that, this is a Fun machine
. 350 miles so far and still improving my riding habits. Especially during the turning and twisting. Gotta forget some of my 2-wheel habits…
As I dig into this and try to understand and isolate the issue, I went back and reviewed what lights are illuminated during the Ignition “on” mode. This is when radio reception is good. I was slightly surprised to find that the only lights that did not illuminate in this mode were the LED headlights and also the LED daytime running lights/fog lights. I could even illuminate the TricLED Chaser RGB LED Adjustable Night Rider Light (manufacturer, TricLED) via dedicated remote. Radio reception remained good with the Chaser Night Rider Light on. From this, I assume I can rule out Chaser Night Rider Light, but cannot rule out the headlights or DRL/fog lights as contributing factors.
This leads to another, secondary, question. How does one put ignition in “accessory” mode? Where only radio and instrument panel is powered and all remaining lights are off? I have tried “hold the Mode button after turning ignition off” suggestion, however no luck with this machine. I will return to this concern after original issue is resolved
.A few notes: I found original boxes from previous owner. Both H4-T2 Series LED Headlights (P/N: SM6313, manufacturer assumed TricLED, however I cannot find this P/N on SlingMod website. New T2 Series Headlights P/N: SM6454…hmmm :lecturef_smilie
and Arc LED DRL/Fog lights (P/N: SM3224, manufacturer TricLED) we’re purchased from SlingMods. I might need to contact SM for clarity…Next steps:
Isolate and remove headlights and DRL/fog lights individually/pair from system and see if that improves radio reception with engine running.
Investigate rear top case removal via LinQ and check ground wires are properly attached and with good conduction.
Investigate Ground Loop Isolator as per canamjhb suggestion.
Other than that, this is a Fun machine
. 350 miles so far and still improving my riding habits. Especially during the turning and twisting. Gotta forget some of my 2-wheel habits…
Ex-Rocket
Well-known member
Your fog lights should have a push button switch mounted where you can turn them on or off. I know on my 2017 F3 Limited I do. Thats how I found out that the fog lights were causing the static on the radio by turning them on & off. When I turned the fog lights on the static was there.
fzflyer
New member
Yes, they do. I don’t notice any additional static when they are switched on.
I’m currently in the process of learning how to remove the body panels so I can physically unhook headlights and DRL/fog lights to isolate and diagnose.
Lew L
Well-known member
.
Now to add something else to this-------
Yesterday after fueling up, I got a DESS fault and the :spyder2: wouldn't start. Yes, I had this problem years ago and changed the DESS module. BUT, I had my fogs and additional driving lights on. Driving lights are 10watt LEDs ( each, and HIGH mounted) but when I shut both off and pulled the key for a few seconds, the :spyder2: started right up and no other faults for the day.
So, could these LED's cause interference with the DESS signal?????
Lew L
Now to add something else to this-------
Yesterday after fueling up, I got a DESS fault and the :spyder2: wouldn't start. Yes, I had this problem years ago and changed the DESS module. BUT, I had my fogs and additional driving lights on. Driving lights are 10watt LEDs ( each, and HIGH mounted) but when I shut both off and pulled the key for a few seconds, the :spyder2: started right up and no other faults for the day.
So, could these LED's cause interference with the DESS signal?????
Lew L
BajaRon
Well-known member
Yes. They can. I had the same problem with a cheap headlight upgrade kit I installed. I'm not saying your setup is cheap. Only that the power conversion module can emit RF/EMF that will drive the ECU crazy. If the ECU cannot interpret the signals it is receiving due to interference. It may just refuse to start the vehicle.
In my case. I purchased a better kit and my problems went away.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
No need to do that. Just pull out the headlight relay in the fuse box.
Check any USB power adapters you may have. Just like LEDs, some of them can cause static in the radio.
If you haven't gotten one yet, you would be well advised to buy a service manual. They're about $30 from www.canammanuals.com in PDF format. There are several sites all connected to this one and selling the same manuals.
There are a few items on the Spyder, such as the headlights, that are served by a load shedding relay. It activates only when the engine is running, and for about 20 seconds after turning off the ignition.
Lew L
Well-known member
BajaRon's answer:
My solution:
First try is to keep the driving light switch off while starting the :spyder2:
Last edited by a moderator:
fzflyer
New member
DRL/fog lights or headlamps not a contributing factor
Yes, a good service manual is in the “to get” queue. It probably would have saved me a few hours yesterday. However, I did get to know the bike much better and how it’s assembled, by removing all the body panels needed to get down, and behind, to the DRL/fog lights and also headlights.
The results were not what I expected however. It appears that neither the DRL/fog lights or the headlights are contributing to the static with engine running issue.
Next, I was able to rotate the rear top case out of position to investigate how that wiring is configured. I found the ribbon ground underneath. Cleaned and add external tooth washers to help it “bite”. But still no improvement. I still need to remove the rear top case liner and understand how antenna is attached and wired to rear top case behind the liner.
Maybe, I am expecting too much from the radio on this bike?? Makes me question BRP/Can-am if they, along with their suppliers, cannot put together an audio system that reaches essentially 10 miles from broadcasting station. Hmmm…
Yes, a good service manual is in the “to get” queue. It probably would have saved me a few hours yesterday. However, I did get to know the bike much better and how it’s assembled, by removing all the body panels needed to get down, and behind, to the DRL/fog lights and also headlights.
The results were not what I expected however. It appears that neither the DRL/fog lights or the headlights are contributing to the static with engine running issue.
Next, I was able to rotate the rear top case out of position to investigate how that wiring is configured. I found the ribbon ground underneath. Cleaned and add external tooth washers to help it “bite”. But still no improvement. I still need to remove the rear top case liner and understand how antenna is attached and wired to rear top case behind the liner.
Maybe, I am expecting too much from the radio on this bike?? Makes me question BRP/Can-am if they, along with their suppliers, cannot put together an audio system that reaches essentially 10 miles from broadcasting station. Hmmm…
Last edited:
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
Broadcasting station, or transmission tower? Big difference! The radio on my 2014 can get iffy if more that about 35 to 50 miles from a tower.
I don't know how good Harley radios are, but the Can Am radios are built by the same company that builds for Harley and some other motorcycles, but not Honda.
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