Power / USB switched vs unswitched?

[GRHorst]

My GPS on my 2021 F3L plugged into the glove box connector was a problem. Using that connector the F3 tries to connect like it was a phone and caused errors on the GPS. My GPS then failed, and I don't know whether this Spyder connection played a role. But I was suspect. So I wanted a separate power source for the GPS.

I purchased the BlueFire 5V/2.1A Dual USB Charger and cigarette lighter type socket for the Motorcycle Handlebar. Then I wasn't sure which way I wanted this, switched or not. I ended up with this unit always live since it has it's own switch (red switch on the top) and is fused. I like having the voltage display to keep an eye on voltage which usually shows around 12.5 when not running and 14.5 with motor running.

I'm sure there are valid reasons to connect via the accessory connection provided in the system. But this way I can punch in a route before starting the Spyder.

The other issue seems to be that my GPS wants more power to charge the battery than the 2.1A USB. It will charge the GPS if using the 12v power adapter. But using the USB I get a warning on the GPS that there is not enough power to charge the battery.

 

[Haze]

Interesting issue. I have a Garmin 396 GPS on my 2017 F3T.
I originally wired the GPS to a Dual USB Charger and Cig socket on the right side Spyder Handlebar.
Direct to the battery. Always caused a worry of draining the Spyder battery if I forgot the turn the charger switch off.
It proved to be visually disturbing by blocking the lower part of the Gauge Cluster.
I then rewired the GPS with a 12V adapter to the Accessory terminal under the left side cover and mounted the GPS to
the center to the Handle Bar Clamp. Similar the Chet's, Rattlebars, system. GPS is only on with the engine running.
https://www.rattlebars.com/spyder/spyder.html#gpsmount
I program the GPS while the Spyder is warming up.

 

[GRHorst]

I see your point about finding a good mounting location for the accessories. Since I'm 6'3" I can see over some of the mounting locations. Yet positioning a drink holder, GPS and USB/Lighter sockets, I had to choose carefully. Currently the GPS blocks the right turn signal indicator unless I set up very straight.

Between the brightness of the GPS, voltage display, and lighted switch there are a lot of reminders to turn it off. However, I did accidentally leave it on while stopping to eat yesterday. If I'm not going to ride for a few days, I usually plug in the battery tender to extend the battery life. If I get more forgetful, you never know for us older folks, maybe I'll switch to the switched accessory connection.

 

[PistonBlown]

On my RS I ran my own circuit from the battery to power the GPS & radar detector as well as having a usb (for phone charging) and cigarette socket (for running tire pump). I mounted a switch on the dash to turn the circuit on and off, they were also each fused separately. I liked having these separate from the ignition because when I made short stops at gas stations or checkpoints (I do iron butt/checkpoint rallies) I want to keep the GPS running. Having a separate circuit meant I could turn the engine off but keep the GPS going. The GPS was a Garmin 590 with the common battery issues which meant you could never be sure if it would keep going when the power was lost. Of course it also meant I could turn everything off independent of the ignition as well.

On the F3 I'm currently running the GPS and radar off the aux point under the left-hand panel which does need the engine running. I'll probably change it to a switched circuit at some point though its less of an issue now as I've just got myself Garmin XT, and replaced the tire pump with a Makita one and has its own battery so don't need a lighter plug any longer.

Agree with the comments by Haze and GRHorst about mounting stuff on the bars and still seeing the dash. I'm not a fan of cluttered bars anyway so ended up fitting ram mounts in front of the speakers and mounting stuff to those instead with the cables going through those vents on the top of the dash. Also means GPS is at a similar viewing distance to the dash which I prefer. In the photo the checkpoint picture holder appears to partly block the mirror but doesn't when I'm sat on the Spyder.

 

[GRHorst]

Looks like a good setup. The mirror locations on the F3 seem less than ideal to me. Ideally I would like to have them further out. But the way the are is adequate and if I block a bit of the inside portion of the mirror, nothing is lost except that I can't see my elbow as clearly. :shocked: I have the GPS on a little adjustable arm so it is closer than the dash. Perhaps it has something to do with having bifocals messing with the distance. I had to make adjustments related to the location of my computer screen in the same way. ( Part of getting older I guess?)

That's a good point about being able to leave the GPS on during a quick gas stop since my GPS boots up rather slowly.

 

[PistonBlown]

Yep I don't know why Can-am think we're so besotted with our elbows The RS was even worse.

Last couple of years I've started to need reading glasses so I got a pair of safety glasses with a bifocal bit at the bottom for riding the Spyder. Last checkup my distance vision has started to go so now have proper bifocal glasses . When I got them I made sure the distance and position of reading bit was right for the dash as I mainly wanted them for riding and driving. That's also why I've kept everything at a similar distance.

Some of the 48 hour rallies I've done can have 50+ checkpoints and that's where you can loose a lot of time if your not careful. An extra minute at each one waiting for the GPS to fire back up means 50+ minutes you've lost overall, which could have been a decent rest stop instead.

 

[Haze]

On my RS I ran my own circuit from the battery to power the GPS & radar detector as well as having a usb (for phone charging) and cigarette socket (for running tire pump). I mounted a switch on the dash to turn the circuit on and off, they were also each fused separately. I liked having these separate from the ignition because when I made short stops at gas stations or checkpoints (I do iron butt/checkpoint rallies) I want to keep the GPS running. Having a separate circuit meant I could turn the engine off but keep the GPS going. The GPS was a Garmin 590 with the common battery issues which meant you could never be sure if it would keep going when the power was lost. Of course it also meant I could turn everything off independent of the ignition as well.

On the F3 I'm currently running the GPS and radar off the aux point under the left-hand panel which does need the engine running. I'll probably change it to a switched circuit at some point though its less of an issue now as I've just got myself Garmin XT, and replaced the tire pump with a Makita one and has its own battery so don't need a lighter plug any longer.

Agree with the comments by Haze and GRHorst about mounting stuff on the bars and still seeing the dash. I'm not a fan of cluttered bars anyway so ended up fitting ram mounts in front of the speakers and mounting stuff to those instead with the cables going through those vents on the top of the dash. Also means GPS is at a similar viewing distance to the dash which I prefer. In the photo the checkpoint picture holder appears to partly block the mirror but doesn't when I'm sat on the Spyder.

View attachment 195787

Thanks for the input. Especially the picture of your setup.
I may be looking into remounting my GPS to a location in front of the left speaker.
Image viewing distance is a concern for me too. I haven't mounted the phone yet.
Perhaps it can go in front of the right speaker as I don't use the Spyder radio. Speakers are not an issue.
If I move the GPS I can place my XM-Radio unit in the center of the handle bars.
Elbow images are not an issue as I built a set of handlebar mirrors that see over and around my shoulders.
Lot to think about...
Cheers, David C.

 

[PistonBlown]

This is how I did the ram mounts. It was pretty simple to do as the whole dash surround comes off so easily and so I could work it all out off the Spyder. The plastic is nice and strong at this point so no flex. You just have to make sure the bolts don't foul with how the panels fit together which is why one has the nut on the top side:


Is there a thread with a photo of your mirrors? would be interested to see what you've done.

 

[Haze]

Handlebar mirrors

Will be posting a thread showing the mirrors later today.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?147880-F3T-Handlebar-Mirrors