• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Ordered a new battery (Yuasa YTX24HL-BS)

Prepping a battery ain't exactly "rocket surgery"... :roflblack:
Follow the instructions, and you're as good as gold! :thumbup:

There's no doubt that the "HL" batteries are more fool-proof; but even most fools (like me), can sort out the process with very few problems.

Use an HL for no problems, and a BS if you want to keep things interesting, in your garage! :2thumbs:
 
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Prepping a battery ain't exactly "rocket surgery"... :roflblack:
Follow the instructions, and you're as good as gold! :thumbup:

Still not getting it....

When you buy a battery online... WHO filled it? Did they let it sit upright for 24 hours? Did they then slow charge it?

You JUST do not know if they did!

Did you read the activation instructions Bob? Do you realize the manufacturer has one? You do not just buy a -BS and drop it in the bike unless it has been properly activated! Again, did you read Yuasa's instructions?

But hey... what do I know other than my BS battery lasted all of 3 months.... I guess my experience with them means nothing?

Bob
 
Bob,
Perhaps you got one that was just destined to die a premature death... :dontknow:
I've been buying dry batteries, and filling them with acid for over 30 years. I've never had a problem with any of them... but I DO follow the instructions: as laid out by the manufacturers... :thumbup:
 
Bob,
Perhaps you got one that was just destined to die a premature death... :dontknow:
I've been buying dry batteries, and filling them with acid for over 30 years. I've never had a problem with any of them... but I DO follow the instructions: as laid out by the manufacturers... :thumbup:

But your filling them yourself correct? Not some monkey in the warehouse...

Bob
 
Yes; that's correct!
The only Monkey touching the batteries... is ME!
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Here is a bottle fill Yuasa battery prep video I found on youtube. https://youtu.be/Xpg10yp4duo

Nice video!

And my bet is some of these sellers that fill the -BS are possibly not doing this properly!
I bet they fill it, pop on the caps and ship it...

When my battery arrived I could hear liquid when I shook it. After I cycled it a few times that went away.
But also I used a car 3 stage charger which charged it too fast the first time.

So, that I believe is the issue with -BS. Not that the battery is bad or anything, just that it was not activated properly.

I guess the lesson here is:
1) Order the battery unfilled and you fill it.
2) Get a charger that can slow charge.

The interesting thing though is I do not recall batteries plus giving you an option to order a unfilled battery?

Bob
 
Nice succinct post

I'm at that CRS stage of elderhood, so I pasted it into Evernote and it's available whenever needed.

Thanks
-Bill

With the proper steps it is no problem doing it yourself. Their fear is that you don't do it righ and short something out. I'm sure you know the proper order for removing the ground and positive cables on removal and installation. For those that don't...on removal ground (Black) cable first then positive (Red) on installation Positive cable (Red) first and ground (Black) last. Make sure the ground cable, when not connected, is not touching any metal parts. I like to wrap the end in electrical tape to avoid this...:thumbup:
 
What am I missing??

I dug down to my battery compartment and removed the cover, couldn't get any further. Couldn't get my fingers or any tool in the battery compartment enough to slide the battery forward, and the hard plastic frunk liner curved up on the bottom corners effectively blocking the battery's removal. :banghead: Is there some simple trick I'm missing? Do I need to remove the lower plastic frunk (looks like the plastic is plastic-welded in place)?

I've had the byke largely disassembled at times, and I'm embarrassed that something so ostensibly simple as this is stumping me!:opps:
 
I dug down to my battery compartment and removed the cover, couldn't get any further. Couldn't get my fingers or any tool in the battery compartment enough to slide the battery forward, and the hard plastic frunk liner curved up on the bottom corners effectively blocking the battery's removal. :banghead: Is there some simple trick I'm missing? Do I need to remove the lower plastic frunk (looks like the plastic is plastic-welded in place)?

I've had the byke largely disassembled at times, and I'm embarrassed that something so ostensibly simple as this is stumping me!:opps:

Next disconnect the cables and place them to the left and right.
Unhook the rubber bungee.
Flip the top plate up and unhook from the frame.
Tip battery into the front trunk, top first.
 
Thanks - I'd assumed I would slide the battery forward THEN disconnect the cables, I'll try this.

The hardest part of anything electrical on a bike is the tiny spaces you have to work in.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks - I'd assumed I would slide the battery forward THEN disconnect the cables, I'll try this.

The hardest part of anything electrical on a bike is the tiny spaces you have to work in.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just a heads up. When putting the battery cover back on. Do not hook the bottom and tip it into place. It will leak. Place it into the opening 1/4 inch or more high and slidedown into place. That will make sure the side hooks engage.
 
...Since you will be doing this....get some STAR washers, the type with the teeth on the inside of the ring ( they work better ) and put them on your Batt Bolts....Because then they will never loosen by themselves ....NOT EVER...........Mike :thumbup:

There is not enough room to place the nut so I can tighten down the screw. Is there a very small tool that I can use? Can I use a vinyl star washer on the front instead of the rear to tighten it down?
 
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