Dipstick is the same for all years and models, #519000155. The SE model takes more oil for the control module and extra filter.I must say I find this thread very interesting and very confusing at the same time! What are we to do now?
We know RS's and RT's all have the same engine, we now know that the required quantity of oil
is different in an SM5 and an SE5, so could there be a difference in the length of the dipsticks and now here is the big question,,,
could the dipsticks have been changed in error either at the factory or maybe at the dealer when setting up and PDI ?
SilverFox :hun:
No, because it varies depoending on ambient temperatures. That's why you check at normal engine (oil) operating temperatures...that is a pretty repeatable thing. Did you eve look in the sight glass of your BMW? at 70 the oil may be at the center, at operating temp iit will fill the glass, and at 32 you won't even see any oil.Wouldn't It make sense for the BRP manual to simply give the full - cold level?
Sounds like the OP's dealer is clueless....... but sounds like it's under control now.
Anyone remember hearing about checking the oil level with the Spyder running?
Seems to me I heard about this recently........
I don't know if this is the case with synthetic oils but long time ago when you had foam in the oil it said the oil was contaminated with water. Anyone else know more about this?Seems like every time I go bye the shop, they've changed their minds about which BRP oil to use. The blend or the pure synth? I am just aking wild guesses as to what the dipstick says as it is so garbled up (foam?) I can't tell where the level is. I have just been trying to get the level on the stick... somewhere. Not very precise, I know, but it is just as hard to read turned off as it is idling. I'm with the folks that want the cold level listed. Every engine I've owned before this one was checked when cold. I understand the temp. variation issue, but I have monitored over 100 engines over the past 50 years and the temp differences have never been a problem. Bring on the cold dipstick!
All oils tend to foam with a dry sump system. Some are better or worse than others. The scavenging pump works regardless or whether there is oil gathered in the sump, so sometimes pumps some air. This foam is lighter than the foam caused by water in the oil, and dissipates much more quickly.I don't know if this is the case with synthetic oils but long time ago when you had foam in the oil it said the oil was contaminated with water. Anyone else know more about this?
Once your engine reaches full operating temperature for the oil, the temperature actually remains quite constant. The mass of the engine, and the presence of the oil cooler, combined with a water-cooled engine, make the oil temperature less variable than you think.It seems to me that the level of oil on the stick is going to vary with how hot the oil is[warm vs. hot] if you have warmed the transmission, do you just run at idle and then check? Best advise would be after changing both oil and filter-filters and putting in the exact amount of oil the manual indicates, then you use the same procedure to check oil level every time, be consistent. I always run mine a few miles to warm the transmission and then check. If I ran it longer and the oil was really hot I'm sure I would get a different reading on the stick.
I'm pretty sure it's 4.4 for the SE but I would have to look it up.
First, is the Spyder at full operating temperature, like after a ride? You can't check the oil cold, or just run the engine until the water temperature gauge comes up. Second, are you screwing in the dipstick when it is reinserted? It has to be screwed in on the Spyder. If the answer to both is yes, your oil is low. Add a little at a time and recheck until it is seen on the stick.Okay, I check the oil after running it for 30 sec. Remove dipstick has oil on it. wipe off put dipstick back in, remove to check level and no oil shows. Per instruction should show level correct.
Seems like every time I go bye the shop, they've changed their minds about which BRP oil to use. The blend or the pure synth? I am just aking wild guesses as to what the dipstick says as it is so garbled up (foam?) I can't tell where the level is. I have just been trying to get the level on the stick... somewhere. Not very precise, I know, but it is just as hard to read turned off as it is idling. I'm with the folks that want the cold level listed. Every engine I've owned before this one was checked when cold. I understand the temp. variation issue, but I have monitored over 100 engines over the past 50 years and the temp differences have never been a problem. Bring on the cold dipstick!
Yes to all your questions. So I am correct the level should show up after reinsertion of dipstick? Just don't want to overfill from what I've been reading.First, is the Spyder at full operating temperature, like after a ride? You can't check the oil cold, or just run the engine until the water temperature gauge comes up. Second, are you screwing in the dipstick when it is reinserted? It has to be screwed in on the Spyder. If the answer to both is yes, your oil is low. Add a little at a time and recheck until it is seen on the stick.
Yes, if the dipstick was reinserted and scerewed in, the oil should show if the engine is at full operating temperature. Don't panic, however, it could be only a smidgen low, and just off the stick. Add it in small increments, until you get the hang of how much does what.Yes to all your questions. So I am correct the level should show up after reinsertion of dipstick? Just don't want to overfill from what I've been reading.