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Oil level, what the heck!

Sounds like the OP's dealer is clueless....... but sounds like it's under control now.

Anyone remember hearing about checking the oil level with the Spyder running?

Seems to me I heard about this recently........
 
I must say I find this thread very interesting and very confusing at the same time! What are we to do now?
We know RS's and RT's all have the same engine, we now know that the required quantity of oil
is different in an SM5 and an SE5, so could there be a difference in the length of the dipsticks and now here is the big question,,,
could the dipsticks have been changed in error either at the factory or maybe at the dealer when setting up and PDI ?

SilverFox :hun:
 
I must say I find this thread very interesting and very confusing at the same time! What are we to do now?
We know RS's and RT's all have the same engine, we now know that the required quantity of oil
is different in an SM5 and an SE5, so could there be a difference in the length of the dipsticks and now here is the big question,,,
could the dipsticks have been changed in error either at the factory or maybe at the dealer when setting up and PDI ?

SilverFox :hun:
Dipstick is the same for all years and models, #519000155. The SE model takes more oil for the control module and extra filter.
 
Thanks spyryder. Now I know. Man I'm telling you, Spyderlovers.com is a very educational site.
I'm learning a lot more here than I did in school. (Not after school though)!

SilverFox
 
It seems to me that the level of oil on the stick is going to vary with how hot the oil is[warm vs. hot] if you have warmed the transmission, do you just run at idle and then check? Best advise would be after changing both oil and filter-filters and putting in the exact amount of oil the manual indicates, then you use the same procedure to check oil level every time, be consistent. I always run mine a few miles to warm the transmission and then check. If I ran it longer and the oil was really hot I'm sure I would get a different reading on the stick.
 
A rough rule of thumb is that the distance between the bottom of the dip stick and the full mark is about 1/2 quart. If the oil level is at the bottom of the dip stick when the engine is cold, it will be 1/2 of the way to the full mark when the engine is hot.
 
Wouldn't It make sense for the BRP manual to simply give the full - cold level?
No, because it varies depoending on ambient temperatures. That's why you check at normal engine (oil) operating temperatures...that is a pretty repeatable thing. Did you eve look in the sight glass of your BMW? at 70 the oil may be at the center, at operating temp iit will fill the glass, and at 32 you won't even see any oil.
 
Sounds like the OP's dealer is clueless....... but sounds like it's under control now.

Anyone remember hearing about checking the oil level with the Spyder running?

Seems to me I heard about this recently........

Yep. Somebody said that their tech in the service department did it that way. Once I read that I began doing it also. Empirically, I determined (and reported on the thread) that there is about 1/8" difference on the dipstick between running and not-running ... and I'm satisfied that as long as it's between the marks when it's hot, it's probably OK. I'm with Scotty ... the issue is that it has to be at operating temperature ... and for me that means after a ryde ... not just started and run for a few minutes. But that's my personal bias.

I hated sight glasses when I first ran into them ... but I learned to adapt. Don't like this much better but I guess I'll learn.

Just my .02 ... and your mileage may vary:).

thehawk
 
oIL

Seems like every time I go bye the shop, they've changed their minds about which BRP oil to use. The blend or the pure synth? I am just aking wild guesses as to what the dipstick says as it is so garbled up (foam?) I can't tell where the level is. I have just been trying to get the level on the stick... somewhere. Not very precise, I know, but it is just as hard to read turned off as it is idling. I'm with the folks that want the cold level listed. Every engine I've owned before this one was checked when cold. I understand the temp. variation issue, but I have monitored over 100 engines over the past 50 years and the temp differences have never been a problem. Bring on the cold dipstick!
 
Seems like every time I go bye the shop, they've changed their minds about which BRP oil to use. The blend or the pure synth? I am just aking wild guesses as to what the dipstick says as it is so garbled up (foam?) I can't tell where the level is. I have just been trying to get the level on the stick... somewhere. Not very precise, I know, but it is just as hard to read turned off as it is idling. I'm with the folks that want the cold level listed. Every engine I've owned before this one was checked when cold. I understand the temp. variation issue, but I have monitored over 100 engines over the past 50 years and the temp differences have never been a problem. Bring on the cold dipstick!
I don't know if this is the case with synthetic oils but long time ago when you had foam in the oil it said the oil was contaminated with water. Anyone else know more about this?
 
I don't know if this is the case with synthetic oils but long time ago when you had foam in the oil it said the oil was contaminated with water. Anyone else know more about this?
All oils tend to foam with a dry sump system. Some are better or worse than others. The scavenging pump works regardless or whether there is oil gathered in the sump, so sometimes pumps some air. This foam is lighter than the foam caused by water in the oil, and dissipates much more quickly.
 
It seems to me that the level of oil on the stick is going to vary with how hot the oil is[warm vs. hot] if you have warmed the transmission, do you just run at idle and then check? Best advise would be after changing both oil and filter-filters and putting in the exact amount of oil the manual indicates, then you use the same procedure to check oil level every time, be consistent. I always run mine a few miles to warm the transmission and then check. If I ran it longer and the oil was really hot I'm sure I would get a different reading on the stick.
Once your engine reaches full operating temperature for the oil, the temperature actually remains quite constant. The mass of the engine, and the presence of the oil cooler, combined with a water-cooled engine, make the oil temperature less variable than you think.
 
New to checking oil on Sypder.

Okay, I check the oil after running it for 30 sec. Remove dipstick has oil on it. wipe off put dipstick back in, remove to check level and no oil shows. Per instruction should show level correct.
 
Okay, I check the oil after running it for 30 sec. Remove dipstick has oil on it. wipe off put dipstick back in, remove to check level and no oil shows. Per instruction should show level correct.
First, is the Spyder at full operating temperature, like after a ride? You can't check the oil cold, or just run the engine until the water temperature gauge comes up. Second, are you screwing in the dipstick when it is reinserted? It has to be screwed in on the Spyder. If the answer to both is yes, your oil is low. Add a little at a time and recheck until it is seen on the stick.
 
over filled

as was stated earlier some oil may have still been in the motor , also check your oil containers are they quart or liter this might account for another couple ounces
 
Seems like every time I go bye the shop, they've changed their minds about which BRP oil to use. The blend or the pure synth? I am just aking wild guesses as to what the dipstick says as it is so garbled up (foam?) I can't tell where the level is. I have just been trying to get the level on the stick... somewhere. Not very precise, I know, but it is just as hard to read turned off as it is idling. I'm with the folks that want the cold level listed. Every engine I've owned before this one was checked when cold. I understand the temp. variation issue, but I have monitored over 100 engines over the past 50 years and the temp differences have never been a problem. Bring on the cold dipstick!

Like Scotty said, all oil will foam some, especially in a dry sump system like the Spyder has. But you don't have to use oil that foams so much you can't check the level. I use Amsoil and I can check it as soon as I shut the engine down and there is virtually no foaming.

I'm sure there are other oils that handle foaming better as well.
 
First, is the Spyder at full operating temperature, like after a ride? You can't check the oil cold, or just run the engine until the water temperature gauge comes up. Second, are you screwing in the dipstick when it is reinserted? It has to be screwed in on the Spyder. If the answer to both is yes, your oil is low. Add a little at a time and recheck until it is seen on the stick.
Yes to all your questions. So I am correct the level should show up after reinsertion of dipstick? Just don't want to overfill from what I've been reading.
 
Yes to all your questions. So I am correct the level should show up after reinsertion of dipstick? Just don't want to overfill from what I've been reading.
Yes, if the dipstick was reinserted and scerewed in, the oil should show if the engine is at full operating temperature. Don't panic, however, it could be only a smidgen low, and just off the stick. Add it in small increments, until you get the hang of how much does what.
 
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