• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

OIL CHANGE QUESTION

I agree! Mix and Match drain plugs for no apparent reason. I think this is the main reason so many have 'Stripped' drain plugs. It's because they used the wrong tool which SEEMS to fit. But doesn't really.

I understand the thinking but I cringe when people use a torque wrench on the 998 filter caps. Whether you use a torque wrench or not, here are some tips on the filter caps.

When replacing the filter caps, alternate back and forth on each screw to get even pressure on both. If you tighten one screw all the way down first, you will probably strip the other screw trying to get it evened up.

Remember, the O-Ring does the sealing and it requires very little pressure to do so. The cap screws DO NOT need to be very tight at all. Evenly snugged up is PLENTY! Tiny threads in aluminum are an invitation to stripping. Be reasonable. Tighter is not always better. And in this case, it isn't better at all.

If you tighten the caps unevenly you also run the risk of pinching or slicing the O-Ring. So again, simply alternate the tightening sequence to get even pressure on both screws.

It's not that difficult to do if you follow a few simple guidelines. Thousands of Spyder owners do their own oil changes saving time, money and getting to know their machine a little better.

Wish I had seen this before I stripped my HCM a filter cap screw this afternoon. I alternated the hex screws till I had them snug and then put 97 lbf-in (like oil filter) and oops, I felt it slip, half the threads came out. I caught the brake pad pin but I didn't catch this.

It'll still snug up not much more. Think a course metric helicoil will work or leave it? I'm thinking maybe the shop?
 
Poor fastener choice

By BRP!!!! No vehiclel I've EVER drained oil on has ever had a Torx or allen drive on it's drain bolt. ( Tha may exist??) Yah the hex drives are expensive but just wait till you strip one of those allens out because you put a torx drive in it by mistake ( or visa versa)
I changed mine at 3000 miles and boy was I glad for them on at the next oil change ( last Monday)

Kaos
 
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