Oil Change - Parts

[krb1945]

Yes 10 or 20 is not...

much of a savings but do you really know what oil is going into your machine when it goes behind that shop wall for service? I'm certain you've read about some of the shoddy service members have received posted on this and a few other sites.

Even at full retail prices my changes cost me 57.62 for oil and filters. The oil is one the the best synthetics manufactured and the filters are TUV certified. This is the price for the SM's. The SE is a little more expensive because every other change I also change the HCM filter but each full change on the SE cost me 68.62. IN THE INTEREST OF FULL DISCLOSURE... I don't pay full retail because I sell these parts which are available to all members at less than the price posted above. Also... I am a supporter of this forum.

Of course I'm not counting my time in the price but those are full retail prices for the materials. I consider my time well spent because I check everything I can see with and without a good LED flashlight. Then I know if my machines are in good road condition and I know they have the best parts and oil available. :thumbup:/Ken :shemademe_smilie:

 

[Sarge707]

much of a savings but do you really know what oil is going into your machine when it goes behind that shop wall for service? I'm certain you've read about some of the shoddy service members have received posted on this and a few other sites.

Even at full retail prices my changes cost me 57.62 for oil and filters. The oil is one the the best synthetics manufactured and the filters are TUV certified. This is the price for the SM's. The SE is a little more expensive because every other change I also change the HCM filter but each full change on the SE cost me 68.62. IN THE INTEREST OF FULL DISCLOSURE... I don't pay full retail because I sell these parts which are available to all members at less than the price posted above. Also... I am a supporter of this forum.

Of course I'm not counting my time in the price but those are full retail prices for the materials. I consider my time well spent because I check everything I can see with and without a good LED flashlight. Then I know if my machines are in good road condition and I know they have the best parts and oil available. :thumbup:/Ken :shemademe_smilie:

I always do the non Buds stuff on my BRP stuff. I know I put in Mobil 1 4T quality synthetic oil and just the exact amount I took out! I know I used NEW O-Rings and washers and saved the used ones in case I need them in an emergency. I will take off the trunk to Lube the suspension nipples
because Most shops aren,t going to do this (Behind closed doors)??
I have seen First Hand techs that skip steps and fly through procedures to make the shop extra $$$.
Ask them if you can watch them do the maintenance as you sit around with the checklist and see what happens??:roflblack:

 

[krb1945]

Sarge707... don't forget to...

install the 90 degree zerk fittings when you take the trunk off. In the future you shouldn't have to remove it to lube the swing arms.

I'm going to see if I can install the 90 degree zerks in a couple of days without removing the trunk. If I have to remove the trunk I'll also look at improving the wires to the accessory plug. If that is not possible... I'll go ahead and install the blue sea electrical box and a heavier duty waterproof plug for the air compressor. /Ken

 

[boborgera]

I always do the non Buds stuff on my BRP stuff. I know I put in Mobil 1 4T quality synthetic oil and just the exact amount I took out! I know I used NEW O-Rings and washers and saved the used ones in case I need them in an emergency. I will take off the trunk to Lube the suspension nipples
because Most shops aren,t going to do this (Behind closed doors)??
I have seen First Hand techs that skip steps and fly through procedures to make the shop extra $$$.
Ask them if you can watch them do the maintenance as you sit around with the checklist and see what happens??:roflblack:

:agree:I do every thing my self, lube nipples, use FULL syn oil, new filters O rings/washers and much more. If a dealer will do that for 170$ god bless them. But you never know maybe that particular dealer has very low over head?

 

[Sarge707]

Ken

install the 90 degree zerk fittings when you take the trunk off. In the future you shouldn't have to remove it to lube the swing arms.
Thanks No since taking the trunk off every time!
I'm going to see if I can install the 90 degree zerks in a couple of days without removing the trunk. If I have to remove the trunk I'll also look at improving the wires to the accessory plug. If that is not possible... I'll go ahead and install the blue sea electrical box and a heavier duty waterproof plug for the air compressor. /Ken

Since its still Snowy here I,d be interested in where you find the 90 Degree fittings and cost? Thanks:2thumbs:

 

[krb1945]

Any good autoparts...

should have the correct 90 degree zerk fittings. I went to CarQuest to get mine.

Also for everyone's information you might be able to install them without removing the trunk..."if your hands and arms are the size of a 3 year olds." But with hands the size of mine it is a "remove the trunk" job.


I just finished removing the trunk and will install them after lunch. /Ken

 

[leo76dragon]

I always do the non Buds stuff on my BRP stuff. I know I put in Mobil 1 4T quality synthetic oil and just the exact amount I took out! I know I used NEW O-Rings and washers and saved the used ones in case I need them in an emergency. I will take off the trunk to Lube the suspension nipples
because Most shops aren,t going to do this (Behind closed doors)??
I have seen First Hand techs that skip steps and fly through procedures to make the shop extra $$$.
Ask them if you can watch them do the maintenance as you sit around with the checklist and see what happens??:roflblack:

yah, I asked my dealer if I could watch the mechanic work on my bike for the 600 mile service, and he told me the mechanic doesnt like to be watched while he works on bikes, when all I really wanted was to see if I can pick up some tips when I service my bike... talk about building a relationship of trust... at the end I get handed a paper states 600 mile service done...? nothing saying what was done... as far as trust goes, the dealer has not earned it yet... I doubt he even took off the trunk to lube the suspension, cause he only had my bike for less than an hour...

 

[groundeffect]

I just finished removing the trunk and will install them after lunch. /Ken

:2thumbs: Good luck, Ken. Looking forward to an update, once you are free to do so.


thanks and good luck.

 

[asmdjackal]

Hi. Just want to verify that these are the parts I need for an oil change:




UPDATE: All parts you need to complete your own oil change, if order parts from your local Dealer:

Dipstick Oring: 709000218
Copper Washer (on oil tank): 70550056
Cover Oring: 420650500
Oil Filter: 420956745
Drain plug washer(engine): 420250640
Strainer Oring: 709000218 (yes, same part as dipstick oring)
plus oil of course (293600121).

Thanks.

Also, do NOT buy the drainplug washer... waste of money. Get a rubber impregnated steel washer from Autozone, no more leaks!

 

[asmdjackal]

yah, I asked my dealer if I could watch the mechanic work on my bike for the 600 mile service, and he told me the mechanic doesnt like to be watched while he works on bikes, when all I really wanted was to see if I can pick up some tips when I service my bike... talk about building a relationship of trust... at the end I get handed a paper states 600 mile service done...? nothing saying what was done... as far as trust goes, the dealer has not earned it yet... I doubt he even took off the trunk to lube the suspension, cause he only had my bike for less than an hour...

One thing you can do is buy the official Spyder service manual... its got alot of good info! You can pretty much figure out how to do just about anything. I mean, thats pretty much all the mechanic is doing on your Spyder... hes looking at the service manual...

 

[groundeffect]

Also, do NOT buy the drainplug washer... waste of money. Get a rubber impregnated steel washer from Autozone, no more leaks!

Have you had oil leaks from the stock drainplug washer?


Is this common?


Thanks

 

[krb1945]

You have to make sure...

the matings surface is clean before installing the plug and washer. It is also important to torque the plug to 15 foot lbs, 20 N.M. /Ken

 

[krb1945]

Lube on suspension arms changed... UPDATE 2-26-10

I've decided not to do the other two... instead I'm going to concentrate on finding a quality small grease gun with a flexible tube and a quality zerk connector. I've spent considerable time and energy today and considering what I have accomplished on this project it just isn't worth it. Most of the reason is due to the fact the 90 degree fittings, which are 18mm tall, are just too short to do the job properly . To make this project worth while the fittings need to be about 28 to 30 MM tall. /Ken

I finally got to it... installing the 6MM x 1.0 90 degree lube fittings on the swing arms. The dealer has been servicing this machine and I found plenty of grease all around the fittings. It is debatable how much actually went in the fitting. But now I have 90's on the upper rear swing arms and 45's on the upper front. Wanted to use 90's on the upper front but they weren't tall enough to tighten... the lube head kept catching on the frame that surrounds the joint. I will look for taller 90's for future installation. When I'm done they will have lube in the joint.

And... yes the only way I could get to them was to remove the trunk... big hands with short stubby fingers don't get into that area unless it is removed.

Now I only have two more to do. /Ken

 

[krb1945]

Zerk fitting copper gaskets...

If you decide to do the grease fittings you may want to have a few thin copper gaskets for the fittings. This will allow you to position the fitting at the correct angle without over tightening the fitting. Otherwise you may find the fitting is pointed to the frame when tight instead of outward. /Ken

 

[NancysToy]

If you decide to do the grease fittings you may want to have a few thin copper gaskets for the fittings. This will allow you to position the fitting at the correct angle without over tightening the fitting. Otherwise you may find the fitting is pointed to the frame when tight instead of outward. /Ken

Thanks for the heads-up. I had some concerns about this. Now to find some thin 6mm shim washers.

 

[krb1945]

Nancy's Toy and GroundEffect...

if we could find a source for 30 mm tall 90's they would be perfect for all the fittings. I've checked several sites but all of the fittings are 18 to 19 mm tall. That's what you can get at the local auto parts store.

GroundEffect did you out why your drain plug was leaking? Fortunately I've never had one leak. /Ken

 

[Sarge707]

I've decided not to do the other two... instead I'm going to concentrate on finding a quality small grease gun with a flexible tube and a quality zerk connector. I've spent considerable time and energy today and considering what I have accomplished on this project it just isn't worth it. Most of the reason is due to the fact the 90 degree fittings, which are 18mm tall, are just too short to do the job properly . To make this project worth while the fittings need to be about 28 to 30 MM tall. /Ken

I finally got to it... installing the 6MM x 1.0 90 degree lube fittings on the swing arms. The dealer has been servicing this machine and I found plenty of grease all around the fittings. It is debatable how much actually went in the fitting. But now I have 90's on the upper rear swing arms and 45's on the upper front. Wanted to use 90's on the upper front but they weren't tall enough to tighten... the lube head kept catching on the frame that surrounds the joint. I will look for taller 90's for future installation. When I'm done they will have lube in the joint.

And... yes the only way I could get to them was to remove the trunk... big hands with short stubby fingers don't get into that area unless it is removed.

Now I only have two more to do. /Ken

Thanks for your time and effort!! I glad they are only scheduled for lube every 12,000.:clap:

 

[groundeffect]

if we could find a source for 30 mm tall 90's they would be perfect for all the fittings. I've checked several sites but all of the fittings are 18 to 19 mm tall. That's what you can get at the local auto parts store.

GroundEffect did you out why your drain plug was leaking? Fortunately I've never had one leak. /Ken

No - that was a question for another member. I've not yet changed the oil on RS, but will soon.

Ken, I want to thank you for your replies on this thread, and the time you've put into the project of changing out the grease fittings with 90s or something to make it easier to access all 8 fittings without taking off the trunk.

I've had a look for a small grease gun, and an extension, but the search continues. I hope to get to Princess Auto later this week, so I'll take a look for fittings and a gun w/ extension. If an extension will fit, I would go that route, but as you've mentioned, there is little room in there.

thank you again for the heads up on the things you've found. Let us keep searching, maybe we'll get lucky.


Cheers, guys!

 

[spyryder]

Here's an older thread you might be interested in :

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5313&highlight=degree+adapter

 

[groundeffect]

Thanks for the note.


this is something that may help (http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/the418.html)