• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Now mine....

The Grip Puppies assist in softening and enlarging the grips for comfort. All were "in stock" from other bike mods. I'll use these until I decide what to do for heated grips. They are, however, a "bear" to install even using soap and water.

The nest time you want to install a set of Grip Puppies, try using compressed air. Simply put the nozzle in the open end while pushing the other end onto the existing grip. Then squeeze the remainder of the grip around the nozzle, and squeeze trigger to allow air to flow - lots of air to flow. The air blast will swell the grip puppy and allow you to push it onto the existing grip. Hope this helps.
 
Scotty - any other ideas? I checked the throttle bodies sync today with a TwinMax and they were right on. Even tweaked them a little but wound up right back at the factory settings.

BTW, read the BMW forums about their syncs. On the Spyder, there is no adjustment to sync the butterflies... they're on the same pivot rod that runs through both TBs. Also, there's only one pull cable to that pivot rod. And one butterfly "stop" for the same rod. I took pics and may get them up in the next couple of days.

I also replaced the plugs while I had it apart. Did you guys know that the plug on the right side can only be accessed by completely removing the airbox... not just the top cover? :( This is another one of those hidden, fairly-limited-space-thingies... like the handlebar cover... to get to the six Torx-head bolts holding the housing to the TBs.

Ideas? (Already done the processor reset multiple times).



Sounds like a throttle body sychronization problem. The BMW R1100RT and R1150RT models are renowned for throttle surge. The best way around it is to make sure the throttle bodies are absolutely synchronized, and that the throttle cables are both exactly at zero play, or very close to it. There is more discussion of this on the BMW forums. Get somebody who is experienced with tuning throttle body injection, and have them play with it a bit. BTW, our Spyder has never shown a surge, but it has stock exhaust.
-Scotty
 
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Scotty - any other ideas? I checked the throttle bodies sync today with a TwinMax and they were right on. Even tweaked them a little but wound up right back at the factory settings.

BTW, read the BMW forums about their syncs. On the Spyder, there is no adjustment to sync the butterflies... they're on the same pivot rod that runs through both TBs. Also, there's only one pull cable to that pivot rod. And one butterfly "stop" for the same rod. I took pics and may get them up in the next couple of days.

I also replaced the plugs while I had it apart. Did you guys know that the plug on the right side can only be accessed by completely removing the airbox... not just the top cover? :( This is another one of those hidden, fairly-limited-space-thingies... like the handlebar cover... to get to the six Torx-head bolts holding the housing to the TBs.

Ideas? (Already done the processor reset multiple times).
Boy, you have me on this one. I must admit that most of my experience is limited to carbs on vintage bikes, so I'm no expert. It is possible that it could be sensor related, I suppose. I understand the idle speed is controlled by the computer. I will say that not all of them do this. Ours runs very smoothly, and I am very familiar with throttle surge. I think you may need to keep leaning on the dealer, until they switch out all the possible culprits, or request assistance from BRP. Sorry I couldn't help more.
-Scotty
 
Boy, you have me on this one. I must admit that most of my experience is limited to carbs on vintage bikes, so I'm no expert. It is possible that it could be sensor related, I suppose. I understand the idle speed is controlled by the computer. I will say that not all of them do this. Ours runs very smoothly, and I am very familiar with throttle surge. I think you may need to keep leaning on the dealer, until they switch out all the possible culprits, or request assistance from BRP. Sorry I couldn't help more.
-Scotty

Thanks! The only other thing I've come up with is one other example of bad header gaskets causing a similar symptom. I'll let the dealer check it again on the next service.
 
Thanks for sharing all your great mods and ideas

We all appreciate new ideas and new ways of doing things. It encourages me to tackle things I wouldn't otherwise do. Thanks again.
 
Thanks for sharing all your great mods and ideas

Thanks for sharing all your ideas and mods. It helps me to do other things that I wouldn't normally do. It's very encouraging. Thanks again.
 
Thanks for sharing all your ideas and mods. It helps me to do other things that I wouldn't normally do. It's very encouraging. Thanks again.

No problem. Most may be "original" for the Spyder but not for motorcycles. Some I have done repeatedly on the 27 or so bikes I've owned in the past.

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I sit here and take notes, do comparisons, choose what I want, buy the stuff and add it to the shelves to keep cabin fever away this winter. (if I'm busy, I don't notice the snow and ice). I'm beginning to womder if I can afford all the things I'm finding. Ah, well, told the kids my will reads "being of sound mind and body, I spent it, go make your own!"
Funny - sounds like you need to get a snowmobile for the winter. I got my Spyder because it's the next best thing to snowmobiling. (Well, they're tied now):doorag:
 
NICE PIPE, HAVE ONE ON ORDER, CANT WAIT

You might want to re-think that unless you're willing to have the pipe and muffler ceramic-coated. I can't keep paint on the pipe... even 1200* paint... and the paint on the muffler discolors at the front and rear from the heat.

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Warrior pipe...

... Exhaust, chapter 4:

I just finished the cut/weld/grind necessary to install the Yamaha/Star Road Star Warrior exhaust... thanks to the ideas of Lamont and a few others!

This can is chrome plated... I prefer black... but it is suitable and different... I like different. I also had a Midnight Warrior (black) exhaust to experiment on... it had a small dent from shipping in just the wrong spot.

I also like the construction of the muffler... my crappy welding job is well hidden after the reassembly of the various muffler parts. < BJT and Lamont can't make fun of my welding... they can't see it! :D >

I used the Magic Man 90* pipe in conjunction with a standard 2.5" x 2.25" exhaust pipe reducer. The reducer was welded onto the muffler after chopping the stock inlet off with a die grinder.

Sound? ... very much like stock... it may, in fact, be a little quieter.

Size? It's probably a little bigger and heavier than stock... it was, after all, made for a 1700cc twin.

A hangar was made from 1/8" x 1" mild steel with holes on 8" centers. That then bolted right up to both the muffler and the frame without trouble.

A ride report will be forthcoming tomorrow after the high-temp RTV (joint seal) is cured.

Ride update, 19-Sep: I like it... will be a great touring muffler as it is quieter than the stock. It is about the size, however, of a 155mm howitzer. :D

I came out of a cafe today after a late breakfast to find 15 folks (the most I've seen so far) gathered around. Among the positive comments: "Man, that's a huge muffler".


So far, so good on the crappy welding job! :clap:
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Ahhh...... This brings back memories of when I first joined SpyderLovers and lamonster and others were just starting to add mods to their Spyders. Those Warrior pipes were all the rage for a short time on SpyderLovers.
 
Calsci windshield...

... I originally bought the mid-size Calsci windshield as a winter shield. However, after a week or so I realized that it would not keep me sufficiently "insulated" in the winter. Mark (Calsci) even offered to swap it out (no charge) for the largest one. For whatever reason, I declined his generous offer.

Now that I've had it on for a month and a half, it occurred to me that this is the perfect three-season shield for me... keep in mind my riding position is relatively straight-up due to the Corbin seat and 7" Kewl Metal bar set-up. The design eliminates all helmet buffeting but provides some relatively smooth air for cooling.

I have come to really, really, really like this shield. Construction and fit is excellent!

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Now... are you wondering what chapter 5 will include? :D


Ahhh...... This brings back memories of when I first joined SpyderLovers and lamonster and others were just starting to add mods to their Spyders. Those Warrior pipes were all the rage for a short time on SpyderLovers.
 
Kewl Metal mirror extenders....

.... I've had these on for a month or more. I can only say:

How did I live without 'em? :clap: :clap:

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For those folks with backrests.....

.... I found a small "Cargo" brand tank bag at CycleGear a month or so ago. However, it did not fit the Spyder's "hump" correctly.

After a little carving, and one screw, it fits the back of the Corbin standard backrest just dandy. It's perfect for cell phone, cigs, and other small stuff with two side pockets, one rear pocket and one large center pocket.

This is probably not for you if you have a passenger. I don't have to worry about that as I have yet to find anyone to sign my standard liability release form. :rolleyes:

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TechSpec Gripster...

... someone posted this a few months back and I finally purchased them.

:thumbup: This is one product that seems to be priced very high to actual cost... but it is a low-volume item and... its price-to-value is worthwhile to me.

If you're an aggressive rYder, in high-speed curves you are probably (should be) tucking your toes under the brake pedal and shift lever and gripping the plastic with your knees. As you've found out, the plastic is pretty slick. This rubber-like anti-slip surface really works very well.

The install is relatively simple as there is an adhesive already on the back of the thin "pad" (it's not for cushioning... it's for gripping!). Follow the included instructions and it's done in five minutes.

Shipping was fast via USPS from the manufacturer: http://www.techspec-usa.com/products/gs_brp.html

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