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There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Now mine....
- Thread starter ataDude
- Start date
ataDude
Mod Maniac
Supertrapps...
... If you haven't figured it out yet, I like to "piddle" as much as ride.
I just finished the install of a 4" Supertrapp black muffler (stock # 449-2218) using the Magic Man elbow pipe. I found only one black Supertrapp with a 2.25" inlet that would work... and it's touted as a "universal" and for a car. If you're not familiar with how this thing muffles, see http://www.supertrapp.com/technology/index.asp
Summit Racing was the supplier, the price was right ($141 including shipping), and the shipping was very fast. The same muffler is also available in polished stainless if that rings your bell. See http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUP-449-2218&N=700+115&autoview=sku
Although the pipe inlet is the right size for the Magic Man stainless elbow pipe, I had to fabricate a "hanger" from 1/8" x 1" mild steel. The one I made was about 5.5" long with the two drilled holes on 4.5" centers. You can see it in the pics. I opted not to make a stainless strap hanger as it would scratch the black finish without also incorporating a heat-resistant rubber backing. I also opted not to weld the hanger on "just because".
I first removed the sound dampener tube from the muffler body by removing the two allen-head screws at the rear of the muffler. Because this was not a motorcycle-specific muffler, I had to drill a 3/8" hole through the wall of the exhaust about 11.75" from the rear edge to attach the hanger. That's just in front of the inner perf'd tube with the ceramic packing.
I then inserted a 3/8" x 2" carriage-head bolt from the inside and used stainless washers and a stainess nut on the outside of the muffler body to cinch it up tight. Another stainless nut and washer completes the hanger attachment to the muffler. I used a liberal dose of Loc-Tite on these two nuts... I really don't want the thing to come apart at speed and "torpedo" someone following me.
The Supertrapp uses a series of discs to "tune" the exhaust... more discs means more noise, less back pressure and more horsepower. Fewer discs mean less noise, more back pressure and more torque. I started at six discs (they provide 12), worked my way "up" and "down" from a noise perspective... settled for seven. With seven discs, the sound at full throttle is a little louder than a Hindle but quieter than a Micron. UPDATE: I changed back to five discs... seven was a little loud at WOT.
The provided stock end-cap just yells "cheesy". I bought the optional aluminum Supertrapp end-cap ... I looked for a "Snuff-R-Not" (an adjustable end-cap by White Brothers), but they're no longer made. I also painted the Magic Man elbow pipe with flat black, 1200* high temperature paint.
Performance appears better but will find out this weekend when I compare it to a highly modified Suzuki DL1000 ridden by one member of my small riding group. It can barely beat me in a 1/4 mile (5+/- lengths) with any of the stock, Hindle or Micron.
Now, if you want LOUD, don't put the end-cap or discs on... it is rather extreme due to the muffler's shortness... more like insane, actually.
The entire mod/drill/cut/grind/polish/paint/mount job took about three hours.
Note that I left "stuff" on the garage floor this time just for draboo. :clap:
... If you haven't figured it out yet, I like to "piddle" as much as ride.
I just finished the install of a 4" Supertrapp black muffler (stock # 449-2218) using the Magic Man elbow pipe. I found only one black Supertrapp with a 2.25" inlet that would work... and it's touted as a "universal" and for a car. If you're not familiar with how this thing muffles, see http://www.supertrapp.com/technology/index.asp
Summit Racing was the supplier, the price was right ($141 including shipping), and the shipping was very fast. The same muffler is also available in polished stainless if that rings your bell. See http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUP-449-2218&N=700+115&autoview=sku
Although the pipe inlet is the right size for the Magic Man stainless elbow pipe, I had to fabricate a "hanger" from 1/8" x 1" mild steel. The one I made was about 5.5" long with the two drilled holes on 4.5" centers. You can see it in the pics. I opted not to make a stainless strap hanger as it would scratch the black finish without also incorporating a heat-resistant rubber backing. I also opted not to weld the hanger on "just because".
I first removed the sound dampener tube from the muffler body by removing the two allen-head screws at the rear of the muffler. Because this was not a motorcycle-specific muffler, I had to drill a 3/8" hole through the wall of the exhaust about 11.75" from the rear edge to attach the hanger. That's just in front of the inner perf'd tube with the ceramic packing.
I then inserted a 3/8" x 2" carriage-head bolt from the inside and used stainless washers and a stainess nut on the outside of the muffler body to cinch it up tight. Another stainless nut and washer completes the hanger attachment to the muffler. I used a liberal dose of Loc-Tite on these two nuts... I really don't want the thing to come apart at speed and "torpedo" someone following me.
The Supertrapp uses a series of discs to "tune" the exhaust... more discs means more noise, less back pressure and more horsepower. Fewer discs mean less noise, more back pressure and more torque. I started at six discs (they provide 12), worked my way "up" and "down" from a noise perspective... settled for seven. With seven discs, the sound at full throttle is a little louder than a Hindle but quieter than a Micron. UPDATE: I changed back to five discs... seven was a little loud at WOT.
The provided stock end-cap just yells "cheesy". I bought the optional aluminum Supertrapp end-cap ... I looked for a "Snuff-R-Not" (an adjustable end-cap by White Brothers), but they're no longer made. I also painted the Magic Man elbow pipe with flat black, 1200* high temperature paint.
Performance appears better but will find out this weekend when I compare it to a highly modified Suzuki DL1000 ridden by one member of my small riding group. It can barely beat me in a 1/4 mile (5+/- lengths) with any of the stock, Hindle or Micron.
Now, if you want LOUD, don't put the end-cap or discs on... it is rather extreme due to the muffler's shortness... more like insane, actually.
The entire mod/drill/cut/grind/polish/paint/mount job took about three hours.
Note that I left "stuff" on the garage floor this time just for draboo. :clap:
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pphantom538
New member
Like the muffler. Any possibiltiy of a sound or utube file?
ataDude
Mod Maniac
Sorry, but I do not have a way to do that.
But... if you've heard one Trapp, you've heard them all. I really want to see what it does for performance... this weekend. :2thumbs:
ataDude
Mod Maniac
IMO,that is the best looking exhaust I ve seen yet on a Spyder,especially after the high temp paint on the elbow.:2thumbs:
side note:Is that a speck of dust I see on the garage floor??
Thanks. Air compressors = good. You should see the rest of the garage, though.
Update on the pipe... I originally painted the pipe with the can attached... no big deal, right... a little bit of tape and....
Well, as I cleaned the pipe and muffler with spray brake cleaner, the paint on the muffler just ran off... not too good.
I repainted both with 900* paint and, shazammmmm.... by the time I got to coffee last night with the Crazies (small bike riding group), the paint had already blistered on parts of both the pipe and can.
Back to the drawing board... will strip and repaint it with 1200* flat black tomorrow. The new end cap should be here today.
I do like the looks and the sound... mild at idle << at least not embarrassingly loud >> and a nice, somewhat loud growl at throttle (with six discs).... not too bad on the freeway, either.
If I can get the paint right, this may be a keeper.
:2thumbs:
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ataDude
Mod Maniac
Not really... had to replace a bulb on the left one but that was immediately after beating :shocked: on it while tinkering. I've run lights on the unsprung parts of other bikes, too, and never had those problems (i.e., lights on the lower fork tubes of an ST-1300).
I did finally come up with a low-tech solution to keeping the light body in place... it would be pointed higher after a spirited ride. A small glob of RTV (not where you can see it) holds it down just fine and... it's not permanent.
Update: I had to replace one that took a rock right in the lens. That could also happen to any light, any mount, including the headlights.
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Lamonster
SpyderLovers Founder
Do you have a part number for this throttle lock? :doorag:
This is a standard Yamaha-fit throttle lock carved down to fit the Spyder. The Spyder's throttle sleeve has a ridge under the rubber which also must be filed off. I may install an AudioVox cruise unit later... none of these mods inflicts any permanent changes which are meaningful.
Did I say that I dislike the "universal" throttle locks with the ugly (IMHO) bar running across the top in plain view?
The Grip Puppies assist in softening and enlarging the grips for comfort. All were "in stock" from other bike mods. I'll use these until I decide what to do for heated grips. They are, however, a "bear" to install even using soap and water.
ataDude
Mod Maniac
I had it for a while but this is it:
http://www.casporttouring.com/store...T&Product_Code=167&Category_Code=Vista-Cruise
They've gone up a bit. I think I paid about $15 in 2003/2004.
How to install:
(1) Use a Dremel (or similar) to cut off the positioning prongs... they don't work on the Spyder.
(2) Remove the right rubber grip ... so you can get a clean shot at drilling later.
(3) File, or grind, off the small ridge molded into the throttle sleeve that's next to the switch assembly.
(4) Install the lock on the throttle sleeve next to the plastic switch assembly box.
(5) Adjust it so it functions correctly... locks when down, slips when up.
(6) PUT IT IN THE LOCKED POSITION to center it up before drilling.
(7) Drill a small hole through the both the lock and the switch box casing side. <The switch casing is about 1/8" thick>. Mark your drill bit with tape so you don't drill too deep into the throttle cables.
(8) Either tap, or use a very short, self-tapping screw to secure. If you use one too long, you can interfere with the throttle operation.
(9) Before you put the grip on, check for proper functioning.
(10) Reinstall grip placing the large plastic washer that came with the throttle lock between the throttle lock and the grip... I used RTV to secure the grip. Leave a little clearance (1/32") between the throttle lock and the grip flange. << Lamont, I know you don't need these instructions but they could help someone else >>
See below for where to drill the small hole mentioned in (7) above (at the bottom... barely visible - which is the idea).
The Audiovox died, huh? Any clue on that?
.
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ataDude
Mod Maniac
Rear axle caps...
... if you haven't ordered your axle caps yet, you're missing a good trim piece.
As others have already stated, they're standard on the newer roadsters being built. The MSRP: A total of $7 and change including tax. Part numbers 705501022 and 705501081 as was mentioned in another thread by the pioneer. Thanks!
I suggest you also dab a little RTV on the inner stems so you don't lose them on a spirited ride.
... if you haven't ordered your axle caps yet, you're missing a good trim piece.
As others have already stated, they're standard on the newer roadsters being built. The MSRP: A total of $7 and change including tax. Part numbers 705501022 and 705501081 as was mentioned in another thread by the pioneer. Thanks!
I suggest you also dab a little RTV on the inner stems so you don't lose them on a spirited ride.
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ataDude
Mod Maniac
New grips and grip heaters...
... Well, those of you who bought Grip Puppies because of me, uh, well, uh....
I accidentally ran across a new grip while ordering stuff for my grip heaters. They are the Sunline Grand Touring grips from California Sport Touring. I used these over the heating elements and I love them. Not too hard, not too soft... shaped just right! $11. (I had previously lost one of the stock grip end-caps... I didn't need to replace it due to these closed-end grips)
Heat-Troller:
This will be the third install of the Symtec Grip Heaters, also from CA Sport Touring. They're about $30. Look closely at the above pic and you can see the wiring exiting from under the grip and tied to the existing cables/wires.
I prefer an infinitely-variable control to an on-off switch. So... as with the past installations, I chose Heat-Troller - a solid state device. It controls the voltage to the grips by pulsing it - not by "burning off" the excess in a resistor. The Heat-Troller is about $55 from the same place.
Use caution concerning other cheaper, non-solid-state controllers... they're variable resistors which get really hot!
BTW, I've never liked the low/off/high switches... the grips, when in use, were always too cool or too hot.
I've never had problems with either part of this set up. However, I suggest you use HIGH TEMP RTV to put the grips back on over the heating elements.
<< Disclaimer: I'm not associated with CST but wish I was on commission. >>
Did you notice that the Spyder is yellow this week? :spyder:
.
... Well, those of you who bought Grip Puppies because of me, uh, well, uh....
I accidentally ran across a new grip while ordering stuff for my grip heaters. They are the Sunline Grand Touring grips from California Sport Touring. I used these over the heating elements and I love them. Not too hard, not too soft... shaped just right! $11. (I had previously lost one of the stock grip end-caps... I didn't need to replace it due to these closed-end grips)
Heat-Troller:
This will be the third install of the Symtec Grip Heaters, also from CA Sport Touring. They're about $30. Look closely at the above pic and you can see the wiring exiting from under the grip and tied to the existing cables/wires.
I prefer an infinitely-variable control to an on-off switch. So... as with the past installations, I chose Heat-Troller - a solid state device. It controls the voltage to the grips by pulsing it - not by "burning off" the excess in a resistor. The Heat-Troller is about $55 from the same place.
Use caution concerning other cheaper, non-solid-state controllers... they're variable resistors which get really hot!
BTW, I've never liked the low/off/high switches... the grips, when in use, were always too cool or too hot.
I've never had problems with either part of this set up. However, I suggest you use HIGH TEMP RTV to put the grips back on over the heating elements.
<< Disclaimer: I'm not associated with CST but wish I was on commission. >>
Did you notice that the Spyder is yellow this week? :spyder:
.
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katnapper
New member
Thanks for all you postings! These mods show me that "do it yourself" mods can look good! Yours look GREAT!:2thumbs:
ataDude
Mod Maniac
ataDude
Mod Maniac
Evoluzion Oxygen Sensor Eliminator...
If you don't want to possibly affect your emissions, skip this post! :joke:
My Spyder as had an annoying lean idle surge of about 200 RPM since new... BUDS said nothing was wrong... everything in spec. Well, that wasn't the right answer.
I installed the Evoluzion O2 Eliminator this afternoon to see what it would do. The theory is that the "black box" tricks the Spyder's fuel injection processor into making the fuel mixture a little richer.
It apparently works... and works well. As soon as I fired the Spyder up, the idle was consistently at 1400 RPM with no more than a 50 RPM variation... all the way up through five bars on the temperature gauge. No more wild swings... it's not even noticeable now.
It's a relatively painless install if you read the instructions. I did not.... again.
pps: You'd think I'd learn... finally. I made it more work than necessary. This should be about a 30-45 minute job at worst.
The kit contains a plug for the O2 sensor in the header pipe. It is in the center of the bike just ahead of where the 90* muffler pipe connects to the header... and points toward the front of the bike. Remove the O2 sensor and insert the plug with the provided gasket/washer. No big deal. And yes, you do want to use the plug as Evoluzione has stated that the stock O2 sensor can be damaged by just using it as a plug. Package it up and store it in case you ever want to go back to stock configuration!
The electrical connection is accessible by removing the flat black plastic fender panel under the seat... the one that the two glossy side panels connect to... the one just above the tire... the one with the three Torx-head bolts on each side. You don't have to remove the side panels!
Once that single panel is removed, you'll find two stock plug connections behind the battery... one two-wire and one four-wire. The four-wire connection is the target. Unplug, plug in the eliminator, attach the eliminator to the frame with the provided 3M dual lock fastener, and button the bike back up. You're good to go.
Update 8/16/2008: Logged about 300 miles today in all driving conditions... slow, fast, city, country. The 200 rpm surge is back. However, the seat-of-pants dyno thinks the bike runs stronger.
Update 12/2008: The surge was caused by a faulty Gear Position Sensor. See this thread for what else was affected... and cured. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7831
Update 8/20/2008: I uninstalled the eliminator today during a throttle-body sync. No difference. Using a TwinMax synchronizer, I found the TBs right on in terms of adjustment.
Project difficulty: On a scale of 1-10 (10 being most difficult), this is a "2" assuming you read the directions.
Happier motoring! :thumbup:
Click here for http://evoluzione.net/evo-cycle.htm
If you don't want to possibly affect your emissions, skip this post! :joke:
My Spyder as had an annoying lean idle surge of about 200 RPM since new... BUDS said nothing was wrong... everything in spec. Well, that wasn't the right answer.
I installed the Evoluzion O2 Eliminator this afternoon to see what it would do. The theory is that the "black box" tricks the Spyder's fuel injection processor into making the fuel mixture a little richer.
It apparently works... and works well. As soon as I fired the Spyder up, the idle was consistently at 1400 RPM with no more than a 50 RPM variation... all the way up through five bars on the temperature gauge. No more wild swings... it's not even noticeable now.
It's a relatively painless install if you read the instructions. I did not.... again.
pps: You'd think I'd learn... finally. I made it more work than necessary. This should be about a 30-45 minute job at worst. The kit contains a plug for the O2 sensor in the header pipe. It is in the center of the bike just ahead of where the 90* muffler pipe connects to the header... and points toward the front of the bike. Remove the O2 sensor and insert the plug with the provided gasket/washer. No big deal. And yes, you do want to use the plug as Evoluzione has stated that the stock O2 sensor can be damaged by just using it as a plug. Package it up and store it in case you ever want to go back to stock configuration!
The electrical connection is accessible by removing the flat black plastic fender panel under the seat... the one that the two glossy side panels connect to... the one just above the tire... the one with the three Torx-head bolts on each side. You don't have to remove the side panels!
Once that single panel is removed, you'll find two stock plug connections behind the battery... one two-wire and one four-wire. The four-wire connection is the target. Unplug, plug in the eliminator, attach the eliminator to the frame with the provided 3M dual lock fastener, and button the bike back up. You're good to go.
Update 8/16/2008: Logged about 300 miles today in all driving conditions... slow, fast, city, country. The 200 rpm surge is back.
However, the seat-of-pants dyno thinks the bike runs stronger. Update 12/2008: The surge was caused by a faulty Gear Position Sensor. See this thread for what else was affected... and cured. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7831
Update 8/20/2008: I uninstalled the eliminator today during a throttle-body sync. No difference. Using a TwinMax synchronizer, I found the TBs right on in terms of adjustment.
Project difficulty: On a scale of 1-10 (10 being most difficult), this is a "2" assuming you read the directions.
Happier motoring! :thumbup:
Click here for http://evoluzione.net/evo-cycle.htm
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katnapper
New member
Ok, got the part numbers but where do I get them?:dontknow:
ataDude
Mod Maniac
Your Can-Am dealer. I just sent mine an email and four days later I had 'em.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Sounds like a throttle body sychronization problem. The BMW R1100RT and R1150RT models are renowned for throttle surge. The best way around it is to make sure the throttle bodies are absolutely synchronized, and that the throttle cables are both exactly at zero play, or very close to it. There is more discussion of this on the BMW forums. Get somebody who is experienced with tuning throttle body injection, and have them play with it a bit. BTW, our Spyder has never shown a surge, but it has stock exhaust.Update 8/16/2008: Logged about 300 miles today in all driving conditions... slow, fast, city, country. The 200 rpm surge is back.
-Scotty
ataDude
Mod Maniac
HA! That's exactly what I was thinking. I have a dual gauge coming on Tuesday (just borrowed for now). My Spyder does it regardless of exhaust... stock, Micron, Hindle and Supertrapp. It's just more noticeable on the louder ones.
I moved last year and can't find my four-column mercury gauge. Mercury is on the loose somewhere. :shocked: :shocked: :shocked:
Thanks!
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