My problem is that I am trying to pull a non-BRP trailer with a 2015 RT Ltd and I keep losing power to the trailer after a few miles. This has happened several times; the dealer keeps replacing the controller; it works for a while then no lights again. I had the trailer wiring checked at a shop that specializes in trailers was told that there was not a problem, no shorts in the wiring of the trailer. The can-am dealer made the pigtail to mate the RT Ltd plug to the trailer plug and that seems to work ok. But the problem remains, the controller stops sending power back to the trailer. This is all dealer installation, do DYI, but it is not covered by warrantee because it is a non BRP trailer. I know several other RT owners with the same trailer and they have no problem. Please HELP.
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Non-BRP trailer woes
- Thread starter gpops
- Start date
mastertek2000
New member
i would check for a ground on trailer when it is on the trailer hitch if is is not then you have to run a ground to the trailer
OverHillAndDale
Member
I'm dealing with a similar issue
I haven't solved my issue yet, but here's a couple of things I've learned...
- The BRP trailer hitch is not grounded to the bike. Make sure you trailer has a ground wire that is grounded to the trailer. It is common for the white ground wire not to be connected since people assume the hitch will serve as a ground.
- BRP doesn't say this, but I've observed that if too much current is pulled through the wiring harness it cuts out. A full short will blow the fuse (#4), but a heavy load may cause it to work intermittently. I don't know how much current that is.
See if you can make it happen in your garage by connecting the trailer, setting the emergency flashers on, use a brick to hold down the brake and turn on the headlights (I use a battery tender so the battery won't run down too fast). See if it will cut out then.
This weekend I'm looking for a weak connection on my trailer.
I haven't solved my issue yet, but here's a couple of things I've learned...
- The BRP trailer hitch is not grounded to the bike. Make sure you trailer has a ground wire that is grounded to the trailer. It is common for the white ground wire not to be connected since people assume the hitch will serve as a ground.
- BRP doesn't say this, but I've observed that if too much current is pulled through the wiring harness it cuts out. A full short will blow the fuse (#4), but a heavy load may cause it to work intermittently. I don't know how much current that is.
See if you can make it happen in your garage by connecting the trailer, setting the emergency flashers on, use a brick to hold down the brake and turn on the headlights (I use a battery tender so the battery won't run down too fast). See if it will cut out then.
This weekend I'm looking for a weak connection on my trailer.
Thanks John, the bulbs are all LED.
Checking the ground is a good suggestion. Would a bad or no ground on the trailer cause the trailer module to short out without blowing the 10 amp trailer module fuse? Why have I lost all these modules (4) without blowing a single fuse?
That's exactly what I am going to do when I find out why I am losing all these modules. Not sure how to find an intermittent short.
lyonsden
Member
I would agree. Ground is likely the problem.
PaladinLV
New member
Yes, because losing or no ground would be an OPEN circuit. A blown fuse is caused by a short or drawing too much current.
AJ
AJ
OverHillAndDale
Member
I have no explanation for the trailer wiring module to simply giving out. The comments are correct that a bad ground will simply cause the circuit to fail, not to blow a fuse or cause the module to blow. However, sometimes an intermittent ground that rapidly fluctuates can cause weak electronics to fail.
The ground is a quick and easy thing to check and to fix. After that this gets a lot toughter.
The ground is a quick and easy thing to check and to fix. After that this gets a lot toughter.
mastertek2000
New member
easysuper
Active member
non brp trailer
We had the same problem with our dealer installed wiring , both trailer wiring went out on a trip at about the same time , we stoped at a Can Am dealer in Bend Oregon and the mechanic had delt with the same problem , what he did was replace the wiring module with an genric one as the BRP moduel was "looking for the trailer" we have since pulled both trailers for the last 6 months with no problems.
We had the same problem with our dealer installed wiring , both trailer wiring went out on a trip at about the same time , we stoped at a Can Am dealer in Bend Oregon and the mechanic had delt with the same problem , what he did was replace the wiring module with an genric one as the BRP moduel was "looking for the trailer" we have since pulled both trailers for the last 6 months with no problems.
Attachments
DC1
New member
Brings up a question/point..
I am about to install the bigbike harness.....it is plug and play with the exception you have to add your own connector to plug to trailer and is a powered controller like the BRP but it is my understanding it is generic enough that the bike won' t reconize the trailer to remap the engine to match(hence searching for the trailer)...
I don' t care about computer remapping and such and actually feel that is one less thing to go wrong...am I off base on how the bike will act(2014 RT SM6)to this generic powered controller...I found a 3 wire light with seperate turn/brake/parking light functions(was not easy to find) and just figure I will use a standard 5 wire flat connector to tie into the bikes harness and run on the trailer(grounded solidly both ways)....
I will be pulling a HF trailer I built with a waterproof soft cover since it was built for rally use on a 2 wheeler and see no reason not to continue with 3 wheels.....I just hope the way I am doing it will bypass any remapping functions and prevent any computer issues..It is apparent that the computer is the central hub for all things Spyder on the 2014 model and I hope to avoid a showdown with it! LOL!
We had the same problem with our dealer installed wiring , both trailer wiring went out on a trip at about the same time , we stoped at a Can Am dealer in Bend Oregon and the mechanic had delt with the same problem , what he did was replace the wiring module with an genric one as the BRP moduel was "looking for the trailer" we have since pulled both trailers for the last 6 months with no problems.
I am about to install the bigbike harness.....it is plug and play with the exception you have to add your own connector to plug to trailer and is a powered controller like the BRP but it is my understanding it is generic enough that the bike won' t reconize the trailer to remap the engine to match(hence searching for the trailer)...
I don' t care about computer remapping and such and actually feel that is one less thing to go wrong...am I off base on how the bike will act(2014 RT SM6)to this generic powered controller...I found a 3 wire light with seperate turn/brake/parking light functions(was not easy to find) and just figure I will use a standard 5 wire flat connector to tie into the bikes harness and run on the trailer(grounded solidly both ways)....
I will be pulling a HF trailer I built with a waterproof soft cover since it was built for rally use on a 2 wheeler and see no reason not to continue with 3 wheels.....I just hope the way I am doing it will bypass any remapping functions and prevent any computer issues..It is apparent that the computer is the central hub for all things Spyder on the 2014 model and I hope to avoid a showdown with it! LOL!
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
THIS ISSUE
I think you are on the right track with this..........I also try to keep it simple......( sort of ).......My 2014 RT has a hard wired ( no convertor etc. ) to a 5 wire plug......My trailer is all LED with separate turn - brake - running/park lights ( also 5 wire harness from OPTRONICS )......So far this works with no problems.........With this set-up all you are doing is adding a few LED's to each separate circuit.....The NANNY has no idea how many LED'S there are they don't draw enough to get her attention...........IMHO.....Mike :thumbup:
I think you are on the right track with this..........I also try to keep it simple......( sort of ).......My 2014 RT has a hard wired ( no convertor etc. ) to a 5 wire plug......My trailer is all LED with separate turn - brake - running/park lights ( also 5 wire harness from OPTRONICS )......So far this works with no problems.........With this set-up all you are doing is adding a few LED's to each separate circuit.....The NANNY has no idea how many LED'S there are they don't draw enough to get her attention...........IMHO.....Mike :thumbup:
I appreciate everyone's comments about what could be happening to the trailer module. While the ground situation sounded promising, I found that each LED light is individually grounded to the frame, so the ground is good. I've decided to go ahead and re-wire the trailer; don't know if it will make a difference or not, but at least it is something I can do. Who knows, I might find something when I pull the old wiring out.
retread
New member
The LEDs grounded to the frame is good, is there a wired connection from the frame of the trailer to the frame of the Spyder? One of the wires in the plug (generally the white) should be connected to ground. That said, if the BRP module is the weak spot in the circuit, Hopkins makes powered 5 to 4 or 5 to 5 wire converters that work very well, and isolate the lights on the trailer from the ones on the Spyder. I used one on my GS that had its own 20 amp circuit and tapped into the wiring on the Spyder to trigger the lights on the trailer.
john
john
billybovine
Active member
BRP uses the Hopkins isolated converter 5 to 4 module in their harness already.
Non-BRP Trailer Woes
Well John, I took the side panel off the RT guess what trailer module BRP uses? You are right, it is the 5 to 4 Hopkins. What is so frustrating is trying to figure out what is happening to a sealed, solid state component with a couple of relays and a pass-through wire for the tail lights. Thanks for your suggestion; if I get enough of them, I am sure to find one that explains what is happening.
Gary
Well John, I took the side panel off the RT guess what trailer module BRP uses? You are right, it is the 5 to 4 Hopkins. What is so frustrating is trying to figure out what is happening to a sealed, solid state component with a couple of relays and a pass-through wire for the tail lights. Thanks for your suggestion; if I get enough of them, I am sure to find one that explains what is happening.
Gary
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