OverHillAndDale
Member
and more frustration....
For the record, I'm not the one who started this thread but I'm having my own non-BRP trailer woes.
I purchased a used Aluma motorcycle trailer a couple of weeks ago. Nearly all the lights are LED, although I think the license plate light might be incandescent. The lights all work if I connect them to a 12 volt sources, but if I connect my Spyder to them only some of the lights work.
Not sure, but I'm thinking the Can-Am harness just doesn't supply enough current for the running lights (the brake and turn signal lights fail when I connect the running lights, which include the possibly incandescent license plate bulb). So here are what I believe my options are:
- Find a way to get inside the small dome-shaped license plate light, confirm that the bulb is incandescent, remove it if it is, retest. Or
- Wire a relay to provide 12V battery power to the running light. This would involve splicing into the harness somewhere and a bunch of other nasty stuff.
So, has anyone got experience routing a wire from the frunk back to under the seat where I'd have to splice in?
Does this sound reasonable or is there a better choice?
Would I be better to just buy the BBP harness that people sound like they're having better luck with?
You guys (and gals) are usually really helpful, so I'm counting on your expertise once again.
For the record, I'm not the one who started this thread but I'm having my own non-BRP trailer woes.
I purchased a used Aluma motorcycle trailer a couple of weeks ago. Nearly all the lights are LED, although I think the license plate light might be incandescent. The lights all work if I connect them to a 12 volt sources, but if I connect my Spyder to them only some of the lights work.
Not sure, but I'm thinking the Can-Am harness just doesn't supply enough current for the running lights (the brake and turn signal lights fail when I connect the running lights, which include the possibly incandescent license plate bulb). So here are what I believe my options are:
- Find a way to get inside the small dome-shaped license plate light, confirm that the bulb is incandescent, remove it if it is, retest. Or
- Wire a relay to provide 12V battery power to the running light. This would involve splicing into the harness somewhere and a bunch of other nasty stuff.
So, has anyone got experience routing a wire from the frunk back to under the seat where I'd have to splice in?
Does this sound reasonable or is there a better choice?
Would I be better to just buy the BBP harness that people sound like they're having better luck with?
You guys (and gals) are usually really helpful, so I'm counting on your expertise once again.
