• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Need to add water(see photo) to 2010 RT

TicketBait

RT-S PE#0412
(Also see post # 8 below with updated questions)
(See Post #10 for latest status)



So last month I was coming back home after riding
and stoped at the store a mile from home.
Water/slimy feeling green coolant was gushing out
underneath the spyder. Maybe the gasket to the
hose broke:dontknow: Anyhow I want to add
coolant before I ride 13 miles to dealership to
check out, rather than have towed.

Tried searching for answer with picture to no avail.
Have a 2010 RT
Appreciate your help

click on photo to enlarge for question? Do I just pry off with a screw driver? Was able to remove the top two

fullsizeoutput_4d9f.jpg

TicketBait
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You can use a little screw driver, or even a finger nail, to pull up the center of that plastic rivet. It will come up about a half inch and then stop. Then you pull out the entire thing from the outside edge. Next time, remove that rivet first, and replace last. If the center comes all the way out, no problem, just put it back in. You didn't't break it.
 
No you don't pry the cover off. There should be a push pin toward the lower left corner. Pry up the center of the pin then you can remove it. next push the cover back towards the bike and lift up the front now you can pull it towards you and the tabs should come out. To see inside the bottle shine a flashlight up underneath from the wheel well.
 
Hope you didn't bend the switch arm, towards the center of that cover under the top lip! Good luck!
 
Hey Jerry, Good to hear from you man. Nope, did not

get fixed, and have not ridden for 3 months. :opps: I do start

her up and place on tender.

The dealership is 13 freeway miles from my house,

should I see if I can make it on a cool morning or

just have AAA tow. If I have it towed I think

they will look for other thing and charge me more to fix.

TB, did you get this problem resolved?

XJQeKFvkTiuOQE+Rcbkojw.jpg

Well I got the lid off (thanks everyone for your suggestions)

and then SpyderAnn was correct the radiator

cap might be difficult to get off and on (oh boy if I let that slip out of my fingers)

But I did safely twist the cap knowing I should

be able to remove and then just be extra careful

in placing back on.

Then realized a couple more things, need some

sort of funnel and hose to get the fluid in (which I don't have)

no biggie auto parts store should have I think.

And I believe this photo below is ok to use to add what's needed.

Got it about 8 years ago on a Spyder trip to Eureka

when I had a water issue this was just in case if needed.

fullsizeoutput_507e.jpg

or should I wait and get this?

IMG_0498.jpg,

Disclaimer: I am aware I have procrastinated on this, so let me have it :gaah:
 
Have you checked to see if the original coolant loss(at the store) came from a hose, or perhaps a split in the reservoir tank(there's been a few of those)? For that matter, it could have been a coolant tank overflow. Can you remember if your radiator fan was working that day? If it wasn't working when you stopped at the store it would almost certainly dump coolant from the overflow.

As you can see there are a few things that could cause a coolant leak.

I'd come take a look at it but honestly I go out of my way to avoid driving anywhere near LA. No offense buddy.

If you want to DM me I'll walk you through each item you need to check. One at a time.

Other than that, unless a willing Spyder rider near you can help.........it's dealer time.


Good to hear from you and hope we have a chance to ride together again, someday.

Jer
 
Water pump repair issues

several months earlier I stopped riding when I saw a gush of coolant come out from under neath my 2010 RT

So I decided to ride my spyder to the dealership To have my water issue checked out, knowing that if it started to overheat I would stop and call AAA. The dealership is 14 miles away. 85% freeway and the rest surface streets. The water temp digital gauge never went above ½ way :thumbup: They did the oil change and to check the water issue was going to be $290:( Also had under warranty the water pump replaced.

Oh well had them check and they say the water pump needs to be rebuilt for $1,217:yikes: asked why not new instead of rebuilt and he said new would be $300 more. I said I might be getting a new bike, should I do this, he said no. I asked if I ride this without doing anything he said just keep an eye on the coolant level , otherwise everything should be ok. I said is it possible to add water/coolant if necessary? not easy :banghead:



So what should I do?
pay to fix, or wait to trade her in? My other boss(wife) Who I have not told yet will probably say"don't repair & sell and don't get another":roflblack:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yikes...!!!

Gonna check it out but....There is no water pump unit only parts and they don't add up to $ 300.00 at cheapcycleparts.com. It is an external repair and usually only seals go bad and need replacing...will look up the flat rate. OK the flat/shop rate 2.2 hours. So if its the o-ring gasket leaking coolant your looking at about $250.00 parts and labor at a shop rate of $100.00 an hour. :dontknow:
 
Thank you Gene, I will ask more questions as to why so much,
Is the 2.2 hours what BRP says?
Think they (DelAmo Motorsports) said 4 hours but not sure.

The shop rate at del amo motorsports is $145 per hr.:(
 
Bring it to me. Buy the parts, I’ll put it on. Even if you have to trailer it to me, I bet I could do it in a few hours, max. Invite Gene for professional development! We are back from Florida by mid November, but after thanksgiving I’m available. Meanwhile, keep coolant in it. Check every ride. It will be fun! Joe
 
BRP flat rate

Thank you Gene, I will ask more questions as to why so much,
Is the 2.2 hours what BRP says?
Think they (DelAmo Motorsports) said 4 hours but not sure.

The shop rate at del amo motorsports is $145 per hr.:(

This is from the BRP flat rate manual for the 2010 RT. Have heard some issues from Del Amo from others but do not know them...:thumbup:
 
Bring it to me. Buy the parts, I’ll put it on. Even if you have to trailer it to me, I bet I could do it in a few hours, max. Invite Gene for professional development! We are back from Florida by mid November, but after thanksgiving I’m available. Meanwhile, keep coolant in it. Check every ride. It will be fun! Joe

Ok, I pick up the spyder tomorrow with just having them doing the oil change and making sure all fluids are topped off. Then I will show them what I found on Spyderlovers from a google search about water pump(amazing)
and ask what parts are needed for this repair!! Since they came up with an exact amount to rebuild $1216.91

fullsizeoutput_5755.jpgfullsizeoutput_5752.jpg

adding everything up on this list totals $713 but maybe I don't need them all + 4 hours at 145 = $1293 :shocked::dontknow:

Also read a lot of threads on this issue, seems many are able to get by just keeping a check on coolant level and how much is leaking. Maybe it was as jeriatric said in another post that my fan did't kick in after riding so it just poured/gushed out. ( don't remember.)

So my last question here is how do I add coolant if necessary or needed if it is a small leak, do I use a hose with a funnel after removing the coolant cap, which is suppose to be difficult to do?
 
ticket bait sounds like your cycle is getting closer to me every day ... from California to Nevada ---- Indiana not to far away ! :roflblack:
hope you get this fixed up pretty quick ... ( take photo-de-odoto`s ) :coffee:
 
Here is what I did to make adding coolant easier.
Taking one of the caps from the coolant container - in my case the BRP bottle. I drilled a hole in the center large enough to put a clear tube in. Having some .375 ID x .5 OD I used that and glued it in. Now I slip the tube into the tank and tip the bottle to start the fill, and when I have what I want in I pinch the tube as close to the tank and remove.
Works great, and if I change coolant brands I just clean out that bottle and fill with the new.
 

Attachments

  • Rad Filler Tube.jpg
    Rad Filler Tube.jpg
    51.5 KB · Views: 20
  • Rad Filler Cap.jpg
    Rad Filler Cap.jpg
    40.1 KB · Views: 21
  • Rad Filler.jpg
    Rad Filler.jpg
    86.2 KB · Views: 20
As stated above adding coolant can be a pain in thd you know what. If you have a half hour you can do it easier. Remove mirrors, side panels, remove panel around headlights and you will have easy access to the radiator cap. Bruce
 
Back
Top