RT 2010 SE5 coolant Leak

[peterRT]

Hi all", in Spyder forum, I ride the Canam RT 2010 SE5 Spyder and I have a coolant leak. I can see white mark from coolant leak on right hand side of A Frame.
I can see coolant drips underneath the coolant resevoir tank and on the hose that connects to the bottom of the coolant resevoir tank

I think it has to be the tank is leaking because all the other plumbing is behind the resevoir tank

Coolant was changed X2 years ago

I topped up the coolant resevoir tank because it was below the low mark on the tank.

It is not the radiator hoses that are leaking

I have read on this forum about resevoir tanks on early model Spyders splitting at the seem, and I am hoping that's what this is

I will have to take plastics off and observe

it leaks only when it gets to operating temperature and then there is pressure in the system,

Hope you guys here have some idea what it could be

I include a picture for your observation

I had another look at the coolant tank today and know that there is no problem with the coolant cap and the tank is dry on the top around the cap

I took pictures of where the tank is leaking and it is at the back of the tank. There are no other hoses in that position that could cause it to leak like the picture I include

I put more pics in now regards Peter

 

[Greven]

If it is a small leak, it can sometimes be hard to see where it comes from, even with direct access/view of the parts.
There is a flourecent fluid that can be added to coolant, oil etc, and can be bought fairly cheap on ebay for example. Add it to the coolant in this case (carefully no not spill of course), start the engine, and then shine a UV-light around.
Just a tip in case you struggle finding the source of the leak

 

[Peter Aawen]

While I think the odds will be leaning towards this being a cracked o/flow tank or leaking hose clamp/connection, it might be worth checking that the cap is on properly before you get too far down track! :lecturef_smilie:

Those bleedin' caps are bloody hard to get to properly and even harder to get on properly & close tightly..... so much so that if you're NOT actually/physically bleeding, there's a pretty good chance the cap isn't really on properly/done up correctly! :shocked: And even if it is, you still should check that it's sealing properly & maybe get it pressure tested too.

It's a lot easier to do all the cap fitting/sealing/testing stuff first, before pulling everything apart to look for a possible leak in the tank &/or hose connections.... and it's a right pain & also just a tad embarrassing if you spend a heap of time pulling panels off & other stuff apart in your search for leaks only to discover that it was always only a poorly fitted/sealing cap after all! :gaah:

Over to you, & Good Luck getting it sorted. :cheers:

 

[rbell0]

If your not sure where its coming from go to a good auto parts store and get a bottle of dye that shows up under black light. I don't remember the brand name. With it in a dark garage pour it in run it a few minutes then look it over with a black light and the leak will glow. Coolant leaks can fool you as to where they originant.

 

[peterRT]

Hi Peter", i will try to put my iphone inthere with a torch light and watch it when engine is warm to see if I can get a video of it too,

Regards Peter

 

[peterRT]

Hi guys and thanks to all of you for the ideas. I post pictures of the problem as I go along looking for the leak and I post pictures and write up about the solution

Regards Peter

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

While I think the odds will be leaning towards this being a cracked o/flow tank or leaking hose clamp/connection, it might be worth checking that the cap is on properly before you get too far down track! :lecturef_smilie:

Those bleedin' caps are bloody hard to get to properly and even harder to get on properly & close tightly..... so much so that if you're NOT actually/physically bleeding, there's a pretty good chance the cap isn't really on properly/done up correctly! :shocked: And even if it is, you still should check that it's sealing properly & maybe get it pressure tested too.

It's a lot easier to do all the cap fitting/sealing/testing stuff first, before pulling everything apart to look for a possible leak in the tank &/or hose connections.... and it's a right pain & also just a tad embarrassing if you spend a heap of time pulling panels off & other stuff apart in your search for leaks only to discover that it was always only a poorly fitted/sealing cap after all! :gaah:

Over to you, & Good Luck getting it sorted. :cheers:

:agree::agree: ………. this has been a common fault for years ….. check it first ….. Mike hyea:

 

[peterRT]

Hi Guys at Spyder Lovers", I have found the leak this morning and took a video and pictures I watched the laek start when Spyder got up to operating temp

 

[safecracker]

Glad you found it.

 

[Pandy]

So, cracked at a seam? That's where mine did,not too hard to fix,refilling and burping the system was the the most tedious part if I recall.

 

[peterRT]

Yeah I got to burp the system when refilling

 

[peterRT]

Hi all I have changed the coolant and coolant tank out then started the Spyder got it up to 76% and burped it then took it for a ride . it.s a good feeling when we do things ourself,

Regards Peter

 

[Raprider]

:congrats:

 

[Pandy]

OK now go burn gas,wear out tires and dirty oil,at whatever velocity suits you.