Need help with finding headlight wires

[Andy Cserny]

I am in the process of installing Glenda fog lights and the instructions from Clearwater look like they apply to pre 2014 RT's. My friend had the tupperware off his 2010 RT and I noted the wiring connector and took pictures of the site where his Glendas were installed at Cowtown, but when I got home and took off my tupperware there was no similarity to his wiring. I need to find the positive wires to the high and low beams. I have no problems with the rest of the installation, having installed Glendas on my Gold Wing. Please be specific as I am very challanged in readinf wiring diagrams. I have taken off the top side cover and the accoustic cover and there is a large multiple wire connector there, but it doesnt look anything like the one on the 2010 RT. The instructions from Clearwater take into account the CAN Bus system so no worries there either since I used the same setup on the Gold wing.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Andy

 

[trikermutha]

They are under the left side cover under the left headlight..Open the front trunk and remove the left side top black cover under the left headlight.
You will see 3-4 connectors that is where you need to hookup..The one connector that has yellow on the back end as you see in your instructions is the one you want.
Look for the grey-Black-Grey/org wires.


I am working on the same thing right now myself..along with other things..:thumbup:

 

[Andy Cserny]

G THE RIGHT WIRES

Thanks for the responses. After reading the responses and looking at the pics I took of a 2010 RT, the connector and wires are the same, the connector has been relocated. I ran out of steam today, but will tackle it again in the AM.
Thanks
Andy

 

[trikermutha]

Thanks for the responses. After reading the responses and looking at the pics I took of a 2010 RT, the connector and wires are the same, the connector has been relocated. I ran out of steam today, but will tackle it again in the AM.
Thanks
Andy

Just found out the wiring diagram is a bit wrong..

Did you get a relay in your kit with 5 wires coming out of it?

If so it will need to be wired slightly different than what was on there diagram.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Thanks for the responses. After reading the responses and looking at the pics I took of a 2010 RT, the connector and wires are the same, the connector has been relocated. I ran out of steam today, but will tackle it again in the AM.
Thanks
Andy

What's your plan for powering the Glendas? Will they be on anytime either high or low beam is on, on only with high beam, or on only with low beam? Be aware the low beam wire is hot all the time, with both high and low beam, since there is only one filament in the headlight bulb. High beam wire has power only when high beam is on. I assume you will be supplying power to the Glendas directly from the battery via a relay, right? I don't think there is enough extra capacity in either the high or low beam circuit to carry the Glendas.

 

[Andy Cserny]

wires

What's your plan for powering the Glendas? Will they be on anytime either high or low beam is on, on only with high beam, or on only with low beam? Be aware the low beam wire is hot all the time, with both high and low beam, since there is only one filament in the headlight bulb. High beam wire has power only when high beam is on. I assume you will be supplying power to the Glendas directly from the battery via a relay, right? I don't think there is enough extra capacity in either the high or low beam circuit to carry the Glendas.

Thanks for the heads up Was Winger. I am drawing the negative and positive directly from the battery . I have dedicated positive and negative distribution points directly from the battery. Then I have a fuse block which sends + to a relay which is switched from the cigarette lighter outlet in the frunk. All farkles are fused and switched except for the GPS, which comes directly off the negative and + distribution points that way the gps doesnt go off every time I stop for gas or a brief rest. I used 80 watt rallye bulbs in the high beams on the 1800 and the OEM wires would not support the extra amps so I had the high beams and the Glendas on a separate relay and the PIAA's were on their own relay. I have completed the wiring of these farkles, but havent tried them out yet. The Glendas are led's and only use a 10 amp fuse, but I will run all my farkles off switched relays. I had a Hannigan sidecar on the Wing and it had one PIAA as a running light , on all the time and another PIAA driving light for a high beam, so when I hit the high beam switch I had two OEM low beams on the Wing, then two 80 watt rallye high beams, two Gleandas full on, and four PIAA driving lights. It lit up the countryside for my late night driving, which I do fairly often. I dont think I will be able to duplicate this on the RT.
Andy

 

[trikermutha]

What's your plan for powering the Glendas? Will they be on anytime either high or low beam is on, on only with high beam, or on only with low beam? Be aware the low beam wire is hot all the time, with both high and low beam, since there is only one filament in the headlight bulb. High beam wire has power only when high beam is on. I assume you will be supplying power to the Glendas directly from the battery via a relay, right? I don't think there is enough extra capacity in either the high or low beam circuit to carry the Glendas.

Low beams only come on when bike is running.

The high beam will trigger the lights to go brighter depending how the brightness pot is set

 

[Andy Cserny]

Glendas

Low beams only come on when bike is running.

The high beam will trigger the lights to go brighter depending how the brightness pot is set

If hooked up according to Clearwater directions, the Glendas go full bright when the high beam on the bike is activated regardless of what setting they are on during regular driving conditions. That is they way they worked on my Wing and that is how they work now on my Spyder RT.

As an aside, the Glendas are very noticeable and when riding in front of a bike equipped with Glendas , especially at night they are VERY annoying. I frequently ride with someone who has Glendas and to keep from blinding me at night he has to drop back and turn the Glendas to their lowest settings or ride in front of me.
Andy

 

[trikermutha]

If hooked up according to Clearwater directions, the Glendas go full bright when the high beam on the bike is activated regardless of what setting they are on during regular driving conditions. That is they way they worked on my Wing and that is how they work now on my Spyder RT.

As an aside, the Glendas are very noticeable and when riding in front of a bike equipped with Glendas , especially at night they are VERY annoying. I frequently ride with someone who has Glendas and to keep from blinding me at night he has to drop back and turn the Glendas to their lowest settings or ride in front of me.
Andy

I tested them and with the pot set all the way up and you turn on your high beams do not make them any brighter.Only when you turn the pot down then they go to full brightness when you hit the high beam lights.

I wanted them for more ground area lighting not blinding others on the rode

 

[CSI]

They are under the left side cover under the left headlight..Open the front trunk and remove the left side top black cover under the left headlight.
You will see 3-4 connectors that is where you need to hookup..The one connector that has yellow on the back end as you see in your instructions is the one you want.
Look for the grey-Black-Grey/org wires.


I am working on the same thing right now myself..along with other things..:thumbup:

So which of those two wires is the hot lead?

Putting LED lights on my wife's 2012 RT this weekend, and plan on hooking the relay switching wire into the lowbeam power lead.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

So which of those two wires is the hot lead?

Putting LED lights on my wife's 2012 RT this weekend, and plan on hooking the relay switching wire into the lowbeam power lead.

There is no low beam power lead, per se. The Spyder headlights use a shutter for low beam. The low beam power lead supplies power to the single filament headlight bulb at all times, low and high beam. High beam power is used to raise the shutters for high beam mode.

What LED lights are you putting in, headlight replacements or something else?

 

[CSI]

There is no low beam power lead, per se. The Spyder headlights use a shutter for low beam. The low beam power lead supplies power to the single filament headlight bulb at all times, low and high beam. High beam power is used to raise the shutters for high beam mode.

What LED lights are you putting in, headlight replacements or something else?

Just adding some LED driving lights to the A-arms. I plan on powering them directly from the battery, thru a relay which will turn them on/off with the headlights. I understand that doing it this way will result in the driving lights always being on, but the ones I am buying are not anything overly bright.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Just adding some LED driving lights to the A-arms. I plan on powering them directly from the battery, thru a relay which will turn them on/off with the headlights. I understand that doing it this way will result in the driving lights always being on, but the ones I am buying are not anything overly bright.

First off, if you plan to do maintenance and other work on this bike I suggest you go to canammanuals.com and buy a service manual for it. Only something on the order of $25 and has everything you need including wiring diagrams.

Is this RT the base model without the OEM fog lights? If so consider doing what I did on my 2013 RT base model. The fog light connectors are there and pretty easy to get to. They have blank plugs on them. Buy a couple of prewired connectors to fit them and connect the lights to them. Then either buy the OEM fog light switch or find a Carling brand rocker switch from another electronic supplier and plug them directly into the harness where the other switches are. That way you make use of the existing wiring and fuses and can turn the driving lights on/off. It'll keep you from getting into hot water with law enforcement. Driving lights must be able to be turned off. LED lights don't draw enough power to justify using a relay to power them.

 

[CSI]

Now who would have figured that there would be a power lead that only supplies power while the frunk is open !!

And guess who discovered that little tidbit of info, after everything was installed, body panels re installed and everything buttoned up ? pps:

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Now who would have figured that there would be a power lead that only supplies power while the frunk is open !!

And guess who discovered that little tidbit of info, after everything was installed, body panels re installed and everything buttoned up ? pps:

Actually the power lead to the frunk light is hot all the time the ignition is on. The frunk light turns on because the microswitch completes the circuit to ground. The same microswitch is used to make the ground circuit for the frunk lid opener. Lid closed, opener has connection to ground, lid open, the light has connection to ground.