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Modification of Krikit I gauge

Stumpy6Guns

New member
If I remove the lip from the edge of the Krikit I in order to position it in the center of the belt to eliminate twist, how will the gauge precision change?
Right now, the precision is not good. It's very difficult to get accurate, repeatable readings because you have to try to compensate for the belt twist as you press down; in fact, you'd have better odds of getting it right at the roulette wheel.

So, I'm thinking of removing the lip. I think it's a worthwhile expenditure- worst case I'll have to pitch the Krikit, and best case I'll have a remarkably precise tool!
 
If you have Krikit 1 it only goes to 150 lbs

[TD="align: center"]Tester Model Number[/TD]
[TD="align: center"]Maximum Belt Width[/TD]
[TD="width: 25%, align: center"]Maximum Tension
(top scale)[/TD]
[TD="width: 25%, align: center"]Belt Tension
(bottom scale)[/TD]

[TD="width: 25%, align: center"] KR-0 [/TD]
[TD="width: 25%, align: center"]7/8"[/TD]
[TD="width: 25%, align: center"]15-35 lbs[/TD]
[TD="width: 25%, align: center"]70-150 N.[/TD]

[TD="width: 25%, bgcolor: beige, align: center"] KR-I [/TD]
[TD="width: 25%, bgcolor: beige, align: center"]7/8""[/TD]
[TD="width: 25%, bgcolor: beige, align: center"]30-150 lbs[/TD]
[TD="width: 25%, bgcolor: beige, align: center"]14-70 kg[/TD]

[TD="width: 25%, align: center"] KR-II [/TD]
[TD="width: 25%, align: center"]2"[/TD]
[TD="width: 25%, align: center"]100-300 lbs[/TD]
[TD="width: 25%, align: center"]45-135 kg[/TD]
 
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I'm aware of the range differences between the two Krikits. I want to be able to get consistent readings between 75 lbf and 140 lbf, but the Krikit 1 is not designed for wide belts. It has a belt alignment lip on the side that keeps it on the v-belts for which it is intended.

The Krikit I has three types of problems when used on a Spyder.
  • Range. As was mentioned above, the Krikit I is useful on Spyders that call for 450 N +/- 150 N, like my 2012 RTL. The Krikit II reads too high and should not be used to measure tension on my bike with the wheel up.
  • It induces belt twist when the lip is hooked on the belt edge as designed. The gauge is not centered on the belt, and the belt will twist downwards. Readings will be all over the place unless you can somehow apply enough force in the right way to keep the belt flat without infuencing the gauge. Good luck!
  • The reading is not accurate when the gauge is centered on the belt like how the Krikit II is used. The lip raises the bottom face of the Krikit I off of the belt, and the readings skyrocket, if you get one at all. Completely destroys the accuracy of the gauge.

What I hope to accomplish is to demonstrate that once the alignment lip is removed and the bottom of the Krikit I is flat like the Krikit II, it can be depended upon to deliver accurate, repeatable measurements of belt tension when used per the Kikit II technique at the lower range of specs.
 
For the price of the gauge: get yourself the proper tool for the job! It'll save you a lot of dinking around with the wrong one... nojoke
 
Let's see....

grinding off the lip should let you center the guage and will eliminate the twist. This will give you a better and more consistant reading. Better would be the correct one (II) or the $800.00 sonic one....:yikes:
 
5 Minutes with a Dremel tool

OK, I have done the modification, and it works quite well. I am getting readings that are consistent with the Krikit II.

Old-time sea captains always took 3 compasses on voyages. If 2 compasses didn't agree, the third would be consulted to see if it matched either of the others. I don't have the $800 sonic gauge to check these against, so I'm taking them at face value. I can live with 125# of tension, off the ground, with the Smooth Spyder engaged.

So, consider my non-scientific, non calibrated modification as a fun little experiment. If anyone else decides to try it, let us know how it worked for you.

IMAG1193.jpg
IMAG1194.jpg
IMAG1197.jpg
IMAG1196.jpg
 
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