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2nd session of belt gymnastics
- Thread starter ButterSmooth
- Start date
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
Not only in reverse but whenever the belt is in motion ..... years ago there was a video posted on this Forum by one of the members. .... it showed the rear sprocket and the drive belt while the Spyder was being driven on the road ..... the belt was moving back and forth on the sprocket teeth ... continuously..... After I saw that video, I stopped being concerned about minor changes in Exactly where the belt was on the Sprocket when the Spyder was stopped ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:
That certainly would be reasonable. And a good reason to ensure the belt is properly situated on the sprocket if possible. Seems to me
that if the belt is moving around while riding, then it would be more likely to try and climb the flange is it starts out up against the flange.
If it starts out in a neutral position it's more likely to run centered. Especially when you consider that, generally, it seems to maintain the
set clearance over time.
But JMO of course.
that if the belt is moving around while riding, then it would be more likely to try and climb the flange is it starts out up against the flange.
If it starts out in a neutral position it's more likely to run centered. Especially when you consider that, generally, it seems to maintain the
set clearance over time.
But JMO of course.
ButterSmooth
New member
I have very little belt experience on the Spyder, as indicated by the thread title. I did, however, battle extensively with my Scout (Indian wars?). Chassis stiffness seems to be the big driver in belt position stability. Go around a left corner and look at the belt, then go around a right corner and look at the belt -- very different results. Go down a rough road and look again -- another different result.
The only reasonable approach is to start with the belt in the most neutral position (centered in front, with some flange clearance in the back) and then mostly forget about it. When you know you've rolled to a straight stop (like in the garage), glance at it once in a while, but don't be obsessive. You should always visually inspect your machine as a force of habit -- it's amazing how many potential problems are avoided with a simple look.
redrazor
Member
hyea:
Last edited by a moderator:
opcorn:
ButterSmooth
New member
3rd Session complete
Another belt tweak session is now complete. I finally abandoned the 1/2 turn and ride approach that I thought would 'creep up' on the correct setting. The surprise in all of this (to me) was that the right adjuster moved more than 3 full turns to set the belt correctly. The belt ended up with .060" ~1.5mm clearance to the rear flange, tested off the ground and after riding. The belt was lightly against the outside of the front pulley. In a previous attempt, the belt had moved off the front flange and I don't know why that changed. I find it hard to believe that it was ever checked after assembly at the factory. There is rubber belt dust on the cases around the front pulley. I went back and forth about 500' while checking the adjustment and noted that when reversing the belt moves toward the inside flange. I wanted to be sure it wouldn't walk off the first time I backed out of a parking space.
The tension ended up at B0 or about 31Hz. and that should be about 180# (on the ground or jacked up). The Krikit measures ~195# with my bad eyes. Good enough to ride a while and see how everything feels and works.
Another belt tweak session is now complete. I finally abandoned the 1/2 turn and ride approach that I thought would 'creep up' on the correct setting. The surprise in all of this (to me) was that the right adjuster moved more than 3 full turns to set the belt correctly. The belt ended up with .060" ~1.5mm clearance to the rear flange, tested off the ground and after riding. The belt was lightly against the outside of the front pulley. In a previous attempt, the belt had moved off the front flange and I don't know why that changed. I find it hard to believe that it was ever checked after assembly at the factory. There is rubber belt dust on the cases around the front pulley. I went back and forth about 500' while checking the adjustment and noted that when reversing the belt moves toward the inside flange. I wanted to be sure it wouldn't walk off the first time I backed out of a parking space.
The tension ended up at B0 or about 31Hz. and that should be about 180# (on the ground or jacked up). The Krikit measures ~195# with my bad eyes. Good enough to ride a while and see how everything feels and works.
