• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Mobil 1 racing 4T oil in the Spyder!!!!

X-tra Profit Sucking. :D :roflblack:


Now, if we go 1 step further with this, and why not, we've already stepped off the cliff. Here we have the BRP All Climate, full synthetic oil. Again, with no viscosity numbers that I can see.

Could this be Castrol Power RS Racing 4T Full Synthetic 5w-40 or maybe 10w-40? I strongly suspect it is.




javascript:popupWindow('http://www.hecosport.com/shop/index.php?main_page=popup_image&pID=6518')http://www.google.com/url?url=http:...+5w+40&usg=AFQjCNHEIOg4iUiecFGwgcb3TQsj6vss0g
 
I fail to understand why so many have their feathers fluffed over what oil to use. The Spyder engine is no different than any other motorcycle engine and just about all bike engines made today use wet clutches. ANY motorcycle oil that is labeled "safe for wet clutch applications" is perfectly acceptable for use in any bike, the Spyder included. 5W-40 or 10W-40 are both OK to use. BRP had been using Castrol oil for years. When they got a "better deal" from another mfg they switched suppliers. The Castrol oil was green in color, the new supplier's oil was brown. They may have switched back to Castrol oil or perhaps to yet another brand. They buy from whoever gives them the lowest price. The almighty buck is more important to BRP than the quality of the oil. There is one oil that I would never use in any vehicle.....it's BRP's XPS oil !! They don't put the rating designations on the container because they switch suppliers so often that they don't know what the current rating are !!

On another note.....synthetic oil has an expiration date. It might not be wise to use oil that has been sitting at a low volume dealer for years. While it might have the designations you want, it probably will not perform as well as the latest batch of oils and might even be harmful to your engine..
 
Now, if we go 1 step further with this, and why not, we've already stepped off the cliff. Here we have the BRP All Climate, full synthetic oil. Again, with no viscosity numbers that I can see.

Could this be Castrol Power RS Racing 4T Full Synthetic 5w-40 or maybe 10w-40? I strongly suspect it is.


When I looked this up on the BRP Website, it was not listed as recommended for the Spyder. I am guessing it is a wider viscosity range.
 
I fail to understand why so many have their feathers fluffed over what oil to use. The Spyder engine is no different than any other motorcycle engine and just about all bike engines made today use wet clutches. ANY motorcycle oil that is labeled "safe for wet clutch applications" is perfectly acceptable for use in any bike, the Spyder included. 5W-40 or 10W-40 are both OK to use. BRP had been using Castrol oil for years. When they got a "better deal" from another mfg they switched suppliers. The Castrol oil was green in color, the new supplier's oil was brown. They may have switched back to Castrol oil or perhaps to yet another brand. They buy from whoever gives them the lowest price. The almighty buck is more important to BRP than the quality of the oil. There is one oil that I would never use in any vehicle.....it's BRP's XPS oil !! They don't put the rating designations on the container because they switch suppliers so often that they don't know what the current rating are !!

On another note.....synthetic oil has an expiration date. It might not be wise to use oil that has been sitting at a low volume dealer for years. While it might have the designations you want, it probably will not perform as well as the latest batch of oils and might even be harmful to your engine..

I'm not sure it's so much people getting feathers askew over a particular oil. I think we all understand it comes down to personal preference and opinion.

Instead, I think people just want to know the truth. If they can get a straight story then they can make their own, informed decision. If the truth is that the current oil they use isn't what they thought it was, or if they find a oil they like better, I'd say most will switch.

After all, it's the Spyder that is most important.

Ruffling comes when things get confusing (and it appears the confusion may be deliberate).

But I completely agree that the BRP oil containers lack details because they want the flexability to change what is in the bottle without having to change the container.

I'm also sure BRP will not put anything into the bottle that isn't going to work well in the Spyder. But worrying about 5W or 10W is something that I'm pretty sure BRP does not waste their time on. My guess is you could get either out of the same BRP container, depending on when you buy.
 
If the ruffled feathers comment is including me, than so be it. I raise my hand in recognition... The act of ruffling feathers is to clean off the crap/worthless stuff :D. Or to attract the opposite sex of course :opps::popcorn::roflblack:.

Baja is correct. I think most of us simply want what is best for our Spyders. Not some brand fan club. But to those like me who have not learned any of this information, but enjoy changing our own oils and such want accurate info. Period.

I come from a family that usually keeps the same vehicles until either life changes create a change, or an accident or health takes them away.

So for us choosing to trade in our 2010 on a 2011 was a real serious conversation, and is with the intention of having this for far more years than some may consider ideal. We simply do not want to start off it's life with us only to learn a few years down the road that we caused unnecessary damage to it. And could have prevented it.

Talk is cheap, time will tell. But we plan to ryde for quite a few decades yet. Dropping $30k every few years to do that, or $3000-6000 to repair an non-warranted item is not on our agenda. Ryding with good folks creating fun enjoyable memories are... :thumbup:

With this new added info on BRP flip flopping (Potentially) I am about to throw my hands up in defeat/disgust as an owner.

I have read more than once, that changing your oil brand is not a good idea from oil change to oil change. As one brand has additives that another may not, and they can create a reduction in that oil change life cycle as the new oil is fighting the additives of the old. Evidently this can simply mean a 3500 mile oil change simply needs to become a 1750 mile oil change and from there you are good to go until you change brands again.

Assuming this has any truth in it as well, if BRP is flip flopping I can see this creating a potential hazard and I would rather take it into my own hands and run the same product. And I have learned from this thread that buying a year supply of oil is not a good idea anymore if using synthetic oils. :gaah:

But then that is the very reason this thread got started now isn't it. lol... Mobil 1 Changed the specs (AKA selling points :thumbup:).

Man this reminds me of when my wife asked me to marry her. Circles after circles of thoughts hahahahahahahaha... :chat:

If anything else, I for one am glad I chimed in. I have learned quite a bit. Thank you all...

Off to surf the web for accessories. Man that is a lot easier nojoke:ohyea:
 
I have read more than once, that changing your oil brand is not a good idea from oil change to oil change. As one brand has additives that another may not, and they can create a reduction in that oil change life cycle as the new oil is fighting the additives of the old. Evidently this can simply mean a 3500 mile oil change simply needs to become a 1750 mile oil change and from there you are good to go until you change brands again.

Changing brands years ago was more of a risk than it is these days. And even then, I'm not sure it was all that big a deal.

As long as you are staying with similar service products, it isn't going to be a problem. There are cheap oils, cheap additives, expensive oils and expensive additives. But again, if you stay in the same ballpark you're not going to have any chemical reaction.

Now, if you add dyno oil to synthetic you will degrade performance. But that will be the result of mixing in an inferior product, not because of incompatabilites or chemical reactions.

I wouldn't worry much about this aspect.
 
BRP oil is just like Harley brand oil. they get who ever bids lowest to make it for them.

but Harley does say that they have a formula or spec that the supplier has to meet in order to mfg the oil for them. i.e. the oil is the same standards just mfg by different vendors for Harley. (that is what they say). at least they give you the weight of the oil on the bottle along with full synth or standard oil option.

anyway this is where i get off the bus for this thread :banghead:

I am sticking with Motul 300V 4T.
 
BRP oil is just like Harley brand oil. they get who ever bids lowest to make it for them.

but Harley does say that they have a formula or spec that the supplier has to meet in order to mfg the oil for them. i.e. the oil is the same standards just mfg by different vendors for Harley. (that is what they say). at least they give you the weight of the oil on the bottle along with full synth or standard oil option.

anyway this is where i get off the bus for this thread :banghead:

I am sticking with Motul 300V 4T.

See! There you go! Asprin goes back in the cupboard and life is good! :ohyea:
 
PowerRSR4_375x252.jpg

Ha!

When I saw this photo, Lou, I thought that was you leaning into the turn and that you had replaced your RoadGlide!!! :yikes: :joke:
 
The bus I was referring to was the circular issue of warranty concerns, I love the oil bus! :clap:

I don't have any warranty concerns. I let the dealer put the so called BRP XPS in. I don't think about who actually produces it, what the weight is or any additives. And, I know it would be cheaper to change my own oil. But, then I would have to be concerned about all the info presented in this thread and then I would have to worry if I had an old batch, a new batch, an in between batch with this additive or that additive.

I just love to ryde and not have to worry. Isn't life great.

Ron, you made me say all this.
 
I don't have any warranty concerns. I let the dealer put the so called BRP XPS in. I don't think about who actually produces it, what the weight is or any additives. And, I know it would be cheaper to change my own oil. But, then I would have to be concerned about all the info presented in this thread and then I would have to worry if I had an old batch, a new batch, an in between batch with this additive or that additive.

I just love to ryde and not have to worry. Isn't life great.

Ron, you made me say all this.

I am innocent of this charge! :D

Everyone has to do what works best for them.

I enjoy changing my own oil. I lean more about my ride, I know that it has been done correctly so I don't have to worry about somebody else doing it wrong (except when I let Lamont do it and he leaves the copper drain plug seal off the crank case just before we leave for a 5000+ mile round trip to California!). :yikes:

But I digress!

I am able to use the best possible oil and still put a lot of bucks in my pocket to buy other things with.

I don't have to ride 50 miles 1 way and wait for a service either.

And, I know there will be zero warranty issues because of the oil I'm using.

It's just the way I like to do it. And I think it has many advantages. But I know it isn't for everyone.

Those that do it another way think their way is the best. I think my way is the best. But really, the way the Spyder owner likes to do it is best for them.
 
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