Lubricating cables

[asp125]

No owners manual.. can someone describe how to lubricate the cables on an (pre 2013) RS please? Specifically the seat latch seems to be sticking and I've already adjusted the pin height. But the key seems to meet with resistance. How much disassembly of the key module is needed. While I'm at it I might as well lube the throttle and clutch cables too.

 

[sinner45]

For lubing cables use liquid graphite, crushed pencil led in suspended fluid any good hardware store also for padlocks

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[asp125]

I have some good graphite cable lube, just don't know if there is a proper method to disconnect the cables, or if I should just wing it.

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[IGETAROUND]

lubricating cables

Here is a link to a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NG6JO9f0Q6U

and here is the tool:
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Lubricator-Lubricant-Motorcycle-Scooter/dp/B009YEYL0I

Enjoy :yes::clap::thumbup::2thumbs::2thumbs:

Al in Kalamazoo

 

[Chupaca]

Try this..

Most bike shops sell a tool and a cable lube spray can with instructions. This is the best way to lube the whole cable. Applying to the ends will do nothing for the center where many cables dry out...:thumbup: I have seen kits and sold seperately. Just ask for a cable lumber and cable lube it will be a spray can with a thin tube...

 

[MikeinGA]

Here is a link to a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NG6JO9f0Q6U

and here is the tool:
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Lubricator-Lubricant-Motorcycle-Scooter/dp/B009YEYL0I

Enjoy :yes::clap::thumbup::2thumbs::2thumbs:

Al in Kalamazoo

This is a great tool! Use on all my cables on all my power equipment. Lasts about 2 years.

Mike

 

[Bob Denman]

Do you have one of these?

It makes lubing cables an easy task! :thumbup:

 

[lawson001]

Consider also mounting an expanding spring to the latch pin. I have one on the seat and frunk pins, secured with RTV, that cause the frunk lid and seat to pop up when released.


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[SpyderAnn01]

Here is a link to the owners manual http://can-am.brp.com/spyder/owners.html

 

[Since08]

My issue first surfaced on my 2010 RT where the key release would not work at all for the seat (broke) and was stiff for the frunk release. I disassembled what I could, to get at the mechanism up by the key but had no success in getting at the problem spot. I believe that through washing, the upper ends of the two cables received water and simply rusted and seized.
I bypassed each of the cables by using some generic MC cables to each (seat & frunk) latch and activating with a custom lever, down by the oil check opening. It worked fine.
My 2013 has now acted up the same way and I'd really like to lube the cables BEFORE one breaks. We must get right to the source of the problem, up at the ignition assembly. I'm not sure how to do it. All I need is a little info. Can anyone offer a tip?

 

[Mikey]

My issue first surfaced on my 2010 RT where the key release would not work at all for the seat (broke) and was stiff for the frunk release. I disassembled what I could, to get at the mechanism up by the key but had no success in getting at the problem spot. I believe that through washing, the upper ends of the two cables received water and simply rusted and seized.
I bypassed each of the cables by using some generic MC cables to each (seat & frunk) latch and activating with a custom lever, down by the oil check opening. It worked fine.
My 2013 has now acted up the same way and I'd really like to lube the cables BEFORE one breaks. We must get right to the source of the problem, up at the ignition assembly. I'm not sure how to do it. All I need is a little info. Can anyone offer a tip?

It's a real pita to do but if you unhook the cable from under the key switch then use one of those cable lubers that the person above suggested you will be able to shoot the lube down the cable! I don't know if you would be able to disconnect from the other end and shoot it up from there, if it had enough pressure to do that I don't know! What I do know after changing my seat cable in my 2012rtl if it happens again I will do the retro that you did to your other bike and the pull cord, it's easyer and you'll save a lot of blood from skun knuckles!! Good luck OH Ya this was a old post from 2016!!!

 

[rbell0]

I use an air nozzle to force the lube through the cable. Snowmobiles will get water (melted snow) in the cables that needs blown out. Cable lube will help corrosion also. I have a friend who ran a snowmobile into the side of his car from a frozen cable.

 

[krakum1967]

I like the tool that is listed above from Amazon, it simplifies life greatly, but I have used the air trick for decades, the tool is neater and cleaner too.

 

[PoeTiger]

Consider also mounting an expanding spring to the latch pin. I have one on the seat and frunk pins, secured with RTV, that cause the frunk lid and seat to pop up when released.


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Could you please post a pic of this. I think this would be a great mod! Thanks in advance!