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2021 RT Limited – first 1K miles – observations and questions

RICZ, well said, hey even in FL on those cold 40's mornings, that butt warmer feels real good. If I want to go north in sensibly cooler weather for some mountain riding, it still feels good.




20 RTL
 
I'm 74 and live in Oregon. I ride the Cascade foothills a lot, it has taken me about a year to somewhat get the hang of crooked mountain roads. I finally learned how to push the handlebars thru the curves while planting your feet and downshifting to keep RPM up. Yes, I know it automatically downshifts but not to Mountain standards for me. I ride in hot and cold climates wet and dry. Why? because I'm old and enjoy riding.

I've never had a problem with the seat heater. Check with a dealer on that, If anything above 40 Degrees I sometimes turn it off (I wear Snow Bibed overalls modified with 20" zippers in the legs.)

I use Cardo Freecom2, with the latest Cardoconnect app, which works great with my ¾ helmet with an iphone12. I was losing connection with my phone and had to remove BRP connect from my phone's Bluetooth, now the cardo works great for me and my wife (When she rides in fair weather). The spyder may have great Bluetooth appeal to some but It created connective issues using Cardo.

I agree that BRP tech sucks, I have somewhat adjusted to the wire throttle but still looking at the Pedal Commander as an option.

My issues have been with the rear suspension, Since day one the Suspension Falt warning banner comes and goes. The air suspension just doesn't work, will not hold air. I've put to spyder in the shop 3 times. One time they replaced the instrument cluster??? no it didn't work. Seems it quits working after 15-30 minutes of highway speed. My Dealer is currently waiting for a new compressor and valve to arrive for another attempt to fix it. BRP seems to have a bad engineering issue with this suspension or my dealer is in a learning mode.
 
I don't like the reverse "clunk" as you say also.. My 2018 RTL has done that since I bought it new.. It sounds like the transmission is going out but many other Spyder owners tell me it is quite normal. One would think the engineers at BRP could solve this distasteful noise..
BIG F
 
...Yes, I know it automatically downshifts but not to Mountain standards for me...
The auto downshift is only during stops, to avoid lugging the engine, not for performance. When you need passing gear, or any other high RPM requirements, ya gotta do it yourself. No apologies needed!

Welcome to the club!
 
I don't like the reverse "clunk" as you say also.. My 2018 RTL has done that since I bought it new.. It sounds like the transmission is going out but many other Spyder owners tell me it is quite normal. One would think the engineers at BRP could solve this distasteful noise..
BIG F

That clunk is perfectly normal, isn't hurting anything, & it's a feature of any/every motorcycle or machine with neutral & a constant mesh transmission! :lecturef_smilie:

This is because whenever you select Reverse (or First from Neutral) the transmission must be disengaged & stopped before First or Reverse can be picked up by the already spinning engine output. I'm assured it's all to do with basic physics - some time ago this fella called Newton worked out that "An object at rest stays at rest and an object in motion stays in motion with the same speed and in the same direction unless acted upon by an unbalanced force." Objects (or first/reverse gears) tend to "keep on doing whatever they're doing" unless there's a external force applied (ie, you selecting a gear - hence the clunk ;) ). In fact, it is the natural tendency of objects to resist changes ... which basically means that no matter what the engineers might try to do, if you select either First or Reverse from Neutral, there's going to be some degree of clunk! And you'll probably tend to notice the 'selecting First' clunk less, cos you'll usually then run on (clunkless) thru the rest of the now already spinning forward gears.... But when you come to a stop & (no matter how quickly/smoothly it may seem to happen to you ;) ) select Neutral so that the transmission gears can stop and then select Reverse to start them spinning again, only now the other way, the clunk is waaayy more obvious (in fact, if you try to force it too quickly, the clunk may well be worse, cos the gears may not have completely stopped spinning the other way! :shocked: ) but it's still unavoidable!! Well, it's unavoidable unless someone smarter'n us can change those basic laws of physics or work out an inertia-less way around them?! :dontknow:

So just like every other motorcycle &/or machine with neutral & a constant mesh transmission, that clunk ain't going nowhere!! Probably the major reason you notice it so much on your Spyder when selecting Reverse is cos very few other motorcycles have an actual 'reverse gear' built into their constant mesh trans like our Spyders do, so they only feel it when selecting First from Neutral, while we've got a stand-alone built in & outstanding feature instead of something tacked on as an after-thought, if at all! :thumbup:
 
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I have a few questions that I would like to get answered by the experienced Spyder riders on this board.

1) I am used to a clunk when shifting in to first on the big V Twins but the clunk the Spyder makes when shifting into reverse when cold is something else. It’s better, but still a significant clunk, when the bike is warm. Is this normal? Do you guys warm you bikes up before shifting into gear?

2) The fan (which is very noisy) seems to come on when idling for a while even though the temperature shows right in the middle of normal on the gauge. Is this normal?

3) As mentioned above the comfort heated seat loses heat after few minutes and will not warm up again even if I turn it on and off again. I have to wait a half hour or more before it will heat up again. Is this normal or did I get a lemon?

4) I am seriously considering swapping the front Kendas already. Is it OK to swap the fronts to Quatracs and leave the rear alone for the moment

5) I promised myself that I would leave the exhaust alone but I am wondering how people who have the Akropovic exhaust like them for sound?

Sorry, this turned out to be a long diatribe but thanks for reading it

Pretty much my experience.

I wouldn't change much suspension/steering wise until you get used to it. I think since i have got the hang of it and I don't have a death grip anymore, i'm not sure i'll bother with shocks, sway bar or tires until I've racked up some miles on the OEM parts. The OEM tires aren't brilliant in my opinion, but they are not that bad. They seem to work fine on the freeway, in the canyons and in the rain. I run 18 lbs in them. They are VERY sensitive to pressure. Now I'm used to it, I've not found tire grip to be a limiting factor in cornering or braking, let alone traction. To be honest, I've learned to corner with a brake/turn/power out kind of method and it seems to reduce the roll a fair bit. See "Dave Moss 2-Clicks Out" YouTube videos to see how he teaches novice track day riders to do this and I think it suits Spyders too.

My seat heater comes on OK and stays on until I get 3rd degree burns. My wife says her back seat is very cosy even on lower setting.

As for exhaust, I'm pretty deaf and have to take my hearing aids out to get my helmet on, so any exhaust note is fine for me. My wife says it's nice and quiet as stock and wants it to stay that way. Frankly unless you take the cat out, changing the end pipe probably won't make a whole bunch of difference in sound, even on an almost open pipe. I don't think an exhaust change will make it go any faster. So I'm leaving mine stock and will save the money for other bits and bobs.

Your mileage may vary of course, just my opinions. Stay safe.
 
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