• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Hot foot problem

Hey guys, I just got a note from Harvey Clark, Spyderpops.com He has reassessed the restriction he was placing on installing the block off plate on the 2013 models. After some weekend testing on a 2013, with the block off plate installed, and some hard riding in 90 degree temps, nothing happened toward overheating. So, SpyderPops.com is now again selling the block off plate for the 2013 RT Limited models. I probably will order one today. Ken

I was out in the Spyderpops factory this past weekend and we discussed the issue. I have his Block Plate installed on my 2013 since before Spyderfest, and it does it's job. He asked me about overheating, and I told him that it has not gotten above the mid-level range, even when stop-n-go. He's always had the issue with some dealers telling owners to pull the Block Plate because that is the cause of the overheat, but in all fairness, there are hundreds of owners with the Block plate on that are happy with it. So a 1 or 2 ocurrance out of 100 owners is normal, and even then those singled out units could have another issue causing the overheating. And knowing Harvey, he rigorously tests all his products before selling them to the general public.
 
If Harvey says it's okay to install, then that's all I need. It's okay with me, and I'll be seeing him hopefully in Maggie Valley or at Lamont's.

Chris
 
Heat - BRP (response) - Spyderpops & Swoop holes

As many already know, radiator heat(the blow torch)is an issue I follow very closely. Last year(pre 2013) I had the following conversation with BRP.

Email to BRP customer service Oct. 2012
(Note: No pics provided in this post, but were provided to BRP)

Louise,
First I would like to thank you for taking the time to contact me.


After spending time doing further research for this communication. It appears people in * Florida, Texas, Arizona, & California have experimented with blocking both upper and lower right radiator vent holes, and have drilled or cut holes in the plastic "swoop" panel aft of the fan. In what I will call the fan box. From what I read, doing this has for the most part eliminated the right side "hot foot" problem and has not caused any noticeable engine operating temperature issues.

* temps in these states range from the nineties to 120 degrees for months on end.

The following (1 & 2) are statements from a couple of RT owners who have done vent blocking and swoop modifications in an attempt to eliminate the "hot foot" problem.

(1) I trimmed out a lot of the 'swoop' about a year ago when I added the top vent block from Spyderpops and still had loads of hot air coming out the bottom hole by my foot. So at Spyderfest, I got the full treatment and blocked off the lower vent too. Results, NO more hot foot.
His foot note. I still get heat around the glove box, simply because the engine is hot. I'd love to find a way to 'train' it downward and out, but there's the crazy thermodynamics thing to contend with. I think it would be great for some aero-minded person to model the Spyder air flow and see what we can do to the under airflow to cause more suction to 'pull' the air down and out.

(2) Blocking both right side vents. I've been trying to resolve the right side heat problem on my RT Limited. I've already installed the Spyderpops top blocking plate and removed the bottom splash plate. Then before going on my road trip last weekend I cut a large oval shaped opening in the inner panel behind the radiator fan (swoop area) and made a temporary blocking plate with some aluminum flashing to close the lower vent as well. This worked great! With the new blocking plate(s) almost all of the heat is channeled under the bike and out the back. I'm no longer getting heat up around the seat and the "hot foot" syndrome is gone. The bike temperature stayed in the normal range when it hit 90º and was way down low when it was only 65º.
I was able to have my feet on the riders footrest without any heat issues during the 400 mile trip. Now I need to come up with a more permanent solution for the aluminum flashing. EDIT: Looks like the Spyderpops lower blocking plate along with the upper will be the permanent solution. I just placed the order.


I have attached photos that depict holes being drilled and or cut (with a hot knife) in the "swoop panel".

It appears the two examples noted have found this modification to be satisfactory. My question is. Does BRP agree they are reasonable and acceptable solutions to the problem many of us have? Warranty in mind.

In addition:

The following is a note from SpyderPops. Dated June 6, 2012.

The lower block off plate by SPYDERPOPS is advertised to be used alone and not with the upper block off plate because we are still testing the results of both.

We do in fact have several RT's in various parts of the country running both and have discovered that in fact, holes have to be cut into the air duct/chute(swoop) from the bottom. Without cutting the holes there is not enough air flow and it can heat up the upper panel. In very hot areas with high humidity the temps of the coolant will raise to the high range, but as soon as the holes are cut into the air duct/chute(swoop) the temps go back to normal.

If you decide to do this yourself it is your decision as WE ARE NOT RECOMMENDING this procedure at this time and will post our results after we have determined proper results.

Harvey

To date, Harvey has not reported final test results. As far as I know.

Aside from the two examples, there is *one picture that depicts the top vent being partially blocked while the lower vent is completely blocked. The reason I have included it is I'm wondering if not completely blocking off the top vent would help relieve any back pressure thus allowing the hot air to flow out the 'swoop holes even better?


Thanks for your help and if none of this seems acceptable. I certainly hope we can continue to work together towards a solution. The problem is real, and many of us would appreciate your help.

Apologize for this mail being as long as it is but, I hope too, that it demonstrates how important the issues is.

Thanks again
Jerry



BRP Response Oct. 2012

October 9, 2012


Official word from BRP tech as related to me in a telephone conversation today with Louise of BRP customer service.


Based on the information and pictures submitted with both upper and lower vent block off plates installed and with the addition of swoop holes either drilled or cut for sufficient heat venting. The impression of the tech she worked with was the modification should not create a heat problem with the RT. (I say RT, because my submission was RT specific.) While his impression is it should not cause any heat problems. If done, it will be our decision to do so. Warranty wise. That said, she also stated if a dealer felt the modification was the cause of a specific problem. It would be up to the dealer to prove it in order to deny a warranty claim.

She also said she will be forwarding a folder with the information provided and the tech's input, to the tech department, and (I think she said) engineering too. Sorry about the fog of memory as to specifics there.

Just a thought - I find it interesting that she specifically stated it would be up to the dealer to prove cause. Not BRP.




Note: I have none of BRP's response in writting. It is all based on verbal communication back and forth with BRP customer service. So, this post is for information purposes only.

Jer




 
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I am not telling people what to wear but I wear proper riding boots and have no problem with the heat on right foot . I have rode with others that ride with sneekers on and complain about right foot heat:yikes: .........Just say'n :coffee: JMHO
 
I am not telling people what to wear but I wear proper riding boots and have no problem with the heat on right foot . I have rode with others that ride with sneekers on and complain about right foot heat:yikes: .........Just say'n :coffee: JMHO

If I wear any thicker boots, my head will explode. My boots are so thick my left foot gets hot from the ambient air. Believe us desert rats. It takes more than the right boot to kill the blow torch.

With mods, I've got mine to bearable, but no where near sneaker ready.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
I am not telling people what to wear but I wear proper riding boots and have no problem with the heat on right foot . I have rode with others that ride with sneekers on and complain about right foot heat:yikes: .........Just say'n :coffee: JMHO

Request. Send some of that Canadian heat down this way. ;) ATGATT
 
That said, she also stated if a dealer felt the modification was the cause of a specific problem. It would be up to the dealer to prove it in order to deny a warranty claim.

She also said she will be forwarding a folder with the information provided and the tech's input, to the tech department, and (I think she said) engineering too. Sorry about the fog of memory as to specifics there.

Just a thought - I find it interesting that she specifically stated it would be up to the dealer to prove cause. Not BRP.

That's pretty much the law here... For warranty claims, it's up to the dealer, and / or manufacturer to PROVE that your mod caused the problem. I've seen both sides of the coin... On one side, someone adds a performance chip, then the dealer voids the warranty for a power window problem. The other side, and I found this laughable... a guy modded the crap out of his SRT - Almost triple the stock HP, tears up his transmission at the drag strip, then gets into a 6 month long legal battle because his warranty was voided...

So if your machine is overheating, they MAY be able to prove the SpyderPOPs mods caused it, but the burden of proof is always on them.

... At least that is how it's supposed to work...

I do notice the hot foot thing, but not all the time, and it is less temperature related, than it is "air" related it seems... for instance, on a ride one day, going one direction on a certain road, hot foot. Riding back the same way... no hot foot. If anything, it was warmer on the ride back, so I chalked it up to wind direction. :dontknow:
 
2013 rt radiator heat coming out the holes in front of tight foot. has anyone solved that issue.

Don't know how it is with the 2013's floor boards, but on my '12 I've found that moving my feet out to the end of the pegs with my heels NOT pointed in while riding makes a HUGE difference heat wise. Much, much cooler. Also, there was a heat mod I read here on the forum involving cutting 2" holes and making a couple of cone shapes out of flashing that seemed to work well for the people who tried it.
 
I hope this hot foot problem will be resolve soon and we can just ride and have fun.:yes::yes:


Here in the NW we don't have hot foot but Big Foot:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:.
 
I hope this hot foot problem will be resolve soon and we can just ride and have fun.:yes::yes:


Here in the NW we don't have hot foot but Big Foot:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:.

Having a 'Big Foot' only adds to the problem:roflblack::roflblack: voice of experience. nojoke
 
hot foot

Having a 'Big Foot' only adds to the problem:roflblack::roflblack: voice of experience. nojoke

The new floor boards are great because you can slide you foot way up forward, but thats where the heat is. it places the big toe right in the path of the bottom vent. I think blocking the bottom vent might be the deal, then the top if nec, and of course the hole behind the radiator box would be a must. Maybe closable vents you could open in the winter time, but they would melt! PS someone asked so ill say; its very sad here in OKC but the support and spirit is great. Things always get better for most, with effort and time. I say most because of the ones who lost family. Houses can be rebuilt, its the loss of loved ones that changes life for ever.
 
The new floor boards are great because you can slide you foot way up forward, but thats where the heat is. it places the big toe right in the path of the bottom vent. I think blocking the bottom vent might be the deal, then the top if nec, and of course the hole behind the radiator box would be a must. Maybe closable vents you could open in the winter time, but they would melt! PS someone asked so ill say; its very sad here in OKC but the support and spirit is great. Things always get better for most, with effort and time. I say most because of the ones who lost family. Houses can be rebuilt, its the loss of loved ones that changes life for ever.

Resisted floorboards, because for me it seems they would take away from the balance one needs in twisties. If the brake lever sat a little higher, or the peg lower, then one could move a 'long foot' under the brake pedal. Thus getting out of the furnace's natural exhaust path. For now I'm running the lower block off plate and will see how it works this summer. To say long hours on the road with your right foot in that heat is uncomfortable is a gross understatement. Around town heat is to be expected. IMO

OK State. Our heart breaks for you folks. An Okie myself.....yep, you can take the boy out of the state, but not the state out of the boy. Couldn't imagine having been raised anywhere else. Fond, heart felt memories that have lasted a lifetime. Stay strong OK State!
 
Mod

I have the Seal Floorboards and found they put my foot right in the heat of it all. Added the upper block off plate. No good.
Removed it and added the Lower block off plate. No good. Cut the Upper block off plated in half and reinstalled it. Works good so far.
I did remove the lower pan as instructed for the Upper block off plate but have not added any holes in the swoop. So far no over heating but have not had any real hot weather in Colorado yet.
 
If I wear any thicker boots, my head will explode. My boots are so thick my left foot gets hot from the ambient air. Believe us desert rats. It takes more than the right boot to kill the blow torch.

With mods, I've got mine to bearable, but no where near sneaker ready.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

MidLifeCrisis Please find a way to bottle that Arizona heat and send to us in the Great White North about January. BRP definitely needs to fix the hot foot problems on spyders especially for hot climates like yours.
 
chisel_maker;626543[U said:
]I have the Seal Floorboards and found they put my foot right in the heat of it all. [/U]Added the upper block off plate. No good.
Removed it and added the Lower block off plate. No good. Cut the Upper block off plated in half and reinstalled it. Works good so far.
I did remove the lower pan as instructed for the Upper block off plate but have not added any holes in the swoop. So far no over heating but have not had any real hot weather in Colorado yet.

And THAT ABOVE is the crux of the problem with the 2013's. You can slide your foot, and understandably so, forward to where it is absolutely right in front of the "black hole of heat". I don't care if your foot is wrapped in space tiles designed for our shuttle space program, you're gonna get toasted.

Chris
 
2013 rt radiator heat coming out the holes in front of tight foot. has anyone solved that issue.
I have been struggling with this issue for awhile and think I have a workable solution finally. Fyi, not only do the floorboards make you experience the heat more I believe the 2013 actually put out more heat. I'm comparing it to my previous 2011rt, with my feet on my NPV there is way more heat with my new 2013 rt. On to the solution that I have been working with my dealer on. What we did was remove the floor panel on that side along with the back panel. This will allow air to flow from the radiator all the way to the back of the bike and out. We then put on both the lower and upper block off plates. This has virtually eliminated the heat problem on my foot. I say virtually because there is a small leak which I will fix my adjusting my block off plates. Now, I am having one last heat problem though no where near as severe. Frankly, I may just leave it as is but.... I get a little heat exhaust around the small tank storage bin just at where it meets the seat. Also, after riding for awhile parts of the outer plastics can get warm. Again, it is way better than before. I think I will be able resolve this last heat problem by putting in a thin layer of heat shield on the under side of the side panels. Most of the heat exhaust either in the back of the bike or underneath the bike with this alteration. I also don't have in over heat problems because the air flow is actually greater with this solution than the way the bike comes stock. I'll keep everyone informed as I move forward with further testing.
 
MidLifeCrisis Please find a way to bottle that Arizona heat and send to us in the Great White North about January. BRP definitely needs to fix the hot foot problems on spyders especially for hot climates like yours.

All they need to do is change their vacation plans by 6 months and they can get a good feel for what we're experiencing. Hotel accommodations are super cheap in june and a few of us will gladly provide them Spyders to ride. Besides, their pasty bodies in speedos are scaring off the Christmas vacationers!!!:roflblack:


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
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How bout the Cat?

Soon after getting my '11 RT I blocked up both outlets, removed the splash plate and cut a lot of the remaining plastic out. That pretty much solved the radiator heat issue for me.

I find the Catalytic converter to still be a major heat source on my right food and would like to know if anyone has produced connecting pipes for removal of it?
 
Soon after getting my '11 RT I blocked up both outlets, removed the splash plate and cut a lot of the remaining plastic out. That pretty much solved the radiator heat issue for me.

I find the Catalytic converter to still be a major heat source on my right food and would like to know if anyone has produced connecting pipes for removal of it?
????? The cat sits on the left side of the RT, so either you are talking about your other right foot, or your heat source is probably not what you think it is. Remember that when you block the radiator outlets, you just push the heat out elsewhere...in this case under the right side. I suspect that is the source of the heat you continue to feel...it has just move a bit farther back and down.
 
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